Mess With This Tex-Mex

Bar Amá  Downtown  March '13
www.bar-ama.com
eat: Queso Fundido, Fideo w/Octopus & Kielbasa, Peas & Grapes, Blood Sausage & Pork Cheeks, Mom's Green Enchiladas, Asparagus & Beets, Chicharrón, Frito Pie, Fennel & Snap Peas, Puffy Tacos, Sopapillas
sip: Nacho Vidal, Zapatista, Tahona Limon, Amá Old-Fashioned

Tex-Mex and I go way back.

For my first college gig, I hostessed at a rowdy, Tex-Mex restaurant: Caliente Cab Company. Famous for their frozen margaritas--evidenced by the monster cocktail beckoning from the facade--this was where locals went to get their tequila on, downing syrupy sweet margaritas or slamming shots wielded by bandolier-strapped waitresses. The edible offerings were cheesy, cheap, and filling--food was merely fuel for more boozing.

While Caliente was far from culinary, my experience there was meaningful. Within her trashy walls, I scored a fake ID, ventured beyond my NYU student body (while exploring the bodies of my male co-workers) and discovered the close-knit, motley crew that makes a restaurant hum. Nevertheless, after each shift, I would return to my dorm reeking of fajita smoke and fried chips, wishing I wanted to eat where I worked.

Enter Bar Amá, Chef Josef Centeno's answer to my freshman year dreams. Embracing his Texan heritage, Bar Amá is an homage to the women (ama) who raised Centeno; it is his "interpretation of their cooking". Integrating his fondness for the farmers market, his mastery of meat, and his love of spice, Centeno slings classics (enchiladas, queso fundido) and originals while taking Angelenos on a tour of Mexican quesos and chilies.

As an ardent member of the Josef fan club--falling hard at Lazy Ox, then his first joint, Baco Mercat--I had high expectations for Bar Amá. After my first visit, I was surprised by my Caliente-like experience,  where the booze outshone the edible. Chalking it up to new-restaurant jitters, I returned again, and again, to find food fitting of Centeno's skills.


Befitting a downtown restaurant, the decor is more industrial (metal chairs, wood-beam walls) than Latino. Instead of tacky chili pepper lights and sombreros, the Mexican accents are authentic: traditional tiles and a towering wall of tequila behind the bar. Come thirsty, for the entire agave family (from mezcal to sotol) is on hand. Deft bartenders shake up more than margaritas; fresh juices, chilies, homemade shrubs and bitters infuse fun and potent quaffs that pair well with the flavorful food.

Nacho Vidal

Bartenders about town are breaking Campari free from its Negroni norm. Here, the blood-red bitter is blended with tequila blanco, chile-lime shrub, and honey. This sassy combo is reigning queen of my cocktail favorites.

Zapatista and Tahona Limon

 On the left, the Zapatista mixes serrano, cilatnro, citrus and honey with Cielo Rojo Bacanora, a lesser-known agave-based spirit that is a subtle version of its smoky cousin, mezcal. The Tahona Limon, mezcal, lime, and sugar, is a gimlet, Mexican-style. 

 Amá Old-Fashioned

If you prefer your tequila unfettered, opt for this Mexican twist on a classic. Tequila añejo, house bitters and orange peel will warm you up for the eating ahead. 

Queso Fundido

Scoop up this oozy triple threat of cheddar, Jack, and panela (a Mexican, paneer-like cheese). With avocado, sour cream, and salsa hidden below and chorizo on top, this gut-bomb begs to be shared.  

Fideo with Octopus and Kielbasa

With a wink to Centeno's Spanish roots, he serves traditional noodles, fideo, flavored with shrimp broth and chilies. Mingled with charred octopus, smoky kielbasa, and crunchy pepitas, this comforting combo is the table's top pick.

English Peas & Black Grapes

Verdant peas and tendrils, sweet grapes, spicy árbol chili, and tangy crema illustrate Centeno's skill at creating delicious out of quirky medleys.   

Blood Sausage & Pork Cheek

Centeno's brand of bodacious meats is showcased with this blood sausage and pork cheek hash.  Dished over wood-fired corn and quinoa, then topped with a fried egg, this brunch-like combo is how I want to start and end every day.

Mom's Green Enchiladas

Mom knows what's best, especially with these stellar enchiladas. Homemade, flour tortillas stuffed with chicken are doused in delectable tomatillo sauce, crema, and a coat of blistered Monterey Jack,  A tasty take on this homey classic.

Grilled Asparagus and Beets

Illustrating Centeno's penchant for seasonal produce, this dish welcomes the arrival of springtime asparagus as we bid adieu to winter beets. The veg are blanketed in luscious crema, slivered radish, spicy peppers, and hierba santa, a Central American leafy herb. As a student in Guatemala, I discovered hierba santa, which contains the same oil, safrole, used to make Ecstasy.  While the herb sadly doesn't trigger the same euphoria as the dance drug, this plate will bring you bliss.

Crispy Chicharrón & Poblano Cream

 A far cry from the salty snack with the same name. Here, chicharrón is pork belly not pork rinds, fried  crisp while tender inside. Dunked in pobalno cream and squirted with lime & bus driver (house-made hot sauce), they are equally savory as they are naughty.

Nana's Frito Pie

Be still my beating heart and clogged arteries. The corn chip classic, Frito Pie, is given a Centeno makeover with luscious lengua (tongue) chile con carne, house-made crema, mulato pepper. Yum!

Fennel & Snap Peas

Temper the hearty with this light and lovely melange of braised fennel, crunchy peas, queso fresco, and popped amaranth, an Aztec grain.  

Chorizo Puffy Taco

 The San Antonio signature, the puffy taco, has landed in L.A. Named for its deep-fried, tortilla shell, we opt for the house-made chorizo. While others have raved, ours arrived soggy and sparse on the fillings. Will try again next time...

Sopapillas & Mexican Chocolate

Although stuffed, I hadn't had sopapillas since my Caliente days. Deep-fried, tortilla pillows are dusted with powdered sugar & honey. Served with Mexican hot chocolate-spiced with chili, cinnamon, and Oaxacan sea salt, this is a sweet finish to our feast.

Before Bar Amá, my Tex-Mex memories were a tequila-tainted haze from my Caliente stint. Now, I'm able to get my agave and eat deliciously, too.

A Manly Meal For A Birthday Girl

The Parish Downtown, LA 10.11.12
www.theparishla.com
eat: Deviled Eggs, Chicken Liver Toast, Pork Shoulder Poutine, Celery Root Mash, Sunchokes, Chicken Wings, Grilled Shrimp, Fried Chicken, Sticky Toffee Pudding
sip: Hubert & Blegér Crémant D'Alsace Rosé, Black Bee, Disco Nap, Amaro

Thank goodness for girlfriends.  Mine are especially rad with their simultaneous beauty, sass, and smarts, traits that could induce extreme envy, but instead keep me inspired.  Most of them enjoy eating (these aren't those "I'll just have a salad, hold the dressing" kind of gals), yet I'm admittedly the gourmandette:  the one who insists on ordering multiple desserts, who finishes everything on our shared plates, and who has a penchant for all things porcine.  Hence, my ladies let me pick the location for our monthly dinners.  For my birthday, I chose the Parish.

Considering my love for Tasting Kitchen, Chef Casey Lane's Italian-inspired gem in Venice, I had a hunch I'd dig The Parish, his new, Downtown gastropub.  As a foursome, I knew we'd be able to tackle a good chunk of the menu, which brims with comfort food -- fried chicken, poutine--with ethnic twists.   That night was our first rainy eve of the fall--perfect weather for feasting.  What followed was an unforgettable meal.  We ate like men, both in quantity and gusto, battling each other for each last morsel.

Located in a triangular building reminiscent of NYC's iconic Flatiron, the Parish feels decidedly urban.  Spacious windows and outdoor patios offer intimate views of street life and traffic .  The cosmopolitan vibe continues inside.  At the inviting bar, polished steel taps, gleaming glassware, and aproned bartenders beckon you to linger over drinks.  With vintage photographs, tawny wood floors, wallpapered walls, and a cozy candle-filled fireplace, the dining room has the familiar, masculine warmth of an English pub.

A Birthday Toast!

 "Too much of anything is bad but too much champagne is just right" - F. Scott Fitzgerald.  One of the many boozy quotes that decorate the drinks menu, this one was particularly pertinent thanks to the bottle of bubbly gifted by my good friend, Hollis. A burst of chilled strawberries, the Huber & Bléger Crémant D'Alsace Rosé was perfect for getting the party started. 

Black Bee

The manly and magical Black Bee is composed of house-barrel bourbon, stout, lemon, honey. Each ingredient compliments the other, with the stout giving it a welcome, bitter coffee zing.

Disco Nap

 Grappa--which our waitress aptly dubs "Italian Moonshine"-- is normally too heady for my taste.  But this libation, made with Prosecco grappa, Aperol (a bitter orange liquor), muddled lemon and a sprig of mint will change the way you think about the g-word.   A feminine drink with heft, like a woman in a Botticelli painting. 

Ladyface Red Rye and Eagle Rock Manifesto

 An abundance of SoCal brews on tap give the Parish local cred. Try Eagle Rock's Manifesto, a citrus-y, wheat beer, and Ladyface's Red Rye, a nice balance of bitter and hops.

Amaro Meletti

Warning: a seat at the bar can lead to impromptu tastings.  On my inaugural visit to The Parish, my amiga, Alyce, and I got an in-depth Amaro lesson thanks to Brian, our affable--and barely-legal looking--bartender.  The bitter digestivo varies depending on the producer: the Amaro Meletti has a unique, saffron spice while the Amaro Montenegro has hints of orange and clove. 

Deviled Eggs

It's hard to go wrong with this classic nibble. Here, they are emboldened by pickled chilis, giving them more kick than the usual dusting of paprika.

Chicken Liver Toast

Who needs foie-gras when chicken liver is this decadent? This macho pâté is intense and gamey, coarsely chopped, and garnished with thick bacon.   It's a tie with Mozza for L.A.'s leading liver. 

Pork Shoulder Poutine

This Québécoise has poutine in her DNA.  Like other iterations around town, cheese curds and gravy are given a gourmet makeover.  Cubes of homemade paneer and a porky, chili-scented sauce replace curds and gravy.  Succulent chunks of pork shoulder are the pièce de résistance.

Celery Root Mash

A crowd-favorite, this is more than the average mash.  Celery root is more complex than its tuber cousin. Topped with a naughty dollop of harissa butter, it's gluttonously good.

Grilled Sunchokes

As succulent and squishy as escargot, these sunchokes reign supreme.  They are delectably tossed with balsamic roasted shallots, watercress, and salsa verde.  

Grilled Shrimp

Morocco meets shrimp when served with cumin-roasted carrots, black olives, fried chickpeas, and mint yogurt.  This wood-fired goodness is a refreshingly different way to eat shrimp.  

Chicken Wings

 Using quality wings, not the stringy counterparts so oft served in bars, this haute rendition is beer-laquered, sticky sweet, finger-licking yum.

Fried Chicken

 The chicken is so juicy good that my gluten-free friend savors the bird even when disrobed of its mouthwatering skin.  Roasted brussels and braised greens balance out the fried.  Yet another terrific version of a culinary trend.

Sticky Toffee Pudding

 Due to an ordering error, our dessert is served simultaneously with our fried chicken.  A high-brow hybrid of a low-country classic, chicken and waffles, we get our savory with our sweet.  The moist, brown-sugary cake bathed in toffee sauce is too good for four girls to politely share. 

While the food indeed rocks, the friendly and skilled staff ensure an excellent time at the Parish.  Case in point: instead of sneers at my silly birthday tiara (thank you, Barndi), genuine well-wishes were said by all who passed our table.

FYI, the Parish just launched a morning menu (fresh-baked pastries and breakfast biscuit sammies) and Happy Hour with nibbles, discounted drinks, and communal punch.   Even more reasons to return as soon as possible!

Good Gallic In A Petite Package

Buvette West Village Sept. '12
http://www.ilovebuvette.com/
eat: Terrine de Campagne, Carottes Rapées, Poulpes, Tarte Tatin
sip: Arneis

buvette 
noun (f)
1. a refreshment stall or counter
2. a snack bar at a theater, train station, beach, etc.

In French, and English for that matter, the diminutive "ette" connotes feminine (coquette) or little (cigarette), so it is implicit that buvettes are small.  Buvette, Jody Williams' Gallic gem, is indeed petite, but that's all it has in common with it's casual joints across the Atlantic.  Chef Williams' version--which she calls a gastrothèque-- is a pleasure chest of French delights, from fresh-baked croissants and housemade charcuterie, to classic coq-au-vin and cassoulet.   It is spot-on-Parisian without being too precious, yet with the amiable waitstaff, you avoid the oft French tradition of snooty service.

Tucked away on a picturesque, tree-lined, West Village street, Buvette feels at home amidst the gorgeous boutiques and fashionistas who frequent the neighborhood.   Inside the beautiful spot, tin-coffered ceilings, a zinc-top bar, an idyllic garden, and exposed brick walls make for an inviting and aesthetically-pleasing setting.   Waiters sport classic, striped aprons with a touch of personal style, like bow-ties.

Making most of the minimal space, the primary decor element is the food itself.  Jars of cornichons & olives, bottles of wine, a jambon slicer, baked goods, baskets of fruit, and an old-school citrus press adorn the café, creating a homey, culinary collage.  Accompanied by my foodie friend, Shari, who I met while studying in Paris, we are equally smitten with Buvette's likeness to our favorite French haunts.

The pop-up cocktail menu: whimsy that works. 

Arneis

  

Our waiter suggests Arneis, a Piedmontese white.  This light and crisp wine with hints of pear is a lovely daytime quaff.  One wall of Buvette features a chalkboard wine map to help geographically guide your sipping selection.

Terrine De Campagne

Don't be fooled by the diminutive size.  Each morsel of this country-style terrine is packed with porky pleasure. Wrapped in bacon, the smoky, intense pâté is served with a briny trifecta of cornichons, olives, and, my fave, caperberries.  It is served with a delectable, house-baked Pain de Campagne 

Carottes Rapées

Carrots are elevated to star status in this simple salad.  A mélange of grated carrots, pistachios, lemon, and vinegar is surprisingly delightful. It's just the thing for a hot, end-of-summer day.

Poulpes

 Ordering octopus is risky for it is so often incorrectly cooked (a.k.a. rubbery).  Here, the cephalopod is perfectly prepared and deliciously tossed with capers, shallots, olives, and refreshingly crunchy celery.   

Tarte Tatin

Throughout our meal, the tarte tatin teased me from its perch in my line of sight.  Sweet & gooey caramelized apples are crammed into a buttery crust and topped with tangy crème fraîche.  Stick a fork (or two, which our waiter so attentively did) in it - I've found taste nirvana. 

When we are presented with our bill, it is inscribed with the colloquial French translation: la douloureuse.  While its primary definition is "painful", here the word jokingly refers to the distress of having to dish out dollars.  I can't help but think that after such a lovely meal at Buvette, it should be called "happiness" (le bonheur) instead.

No Meat. No Problem.

Elf Cafe  Echo Park

www.elfcafe.com

eat: Tahini Avocado Purée, Baked Feta & Tomatoes, Mediterranean Lentils, Spicy Kale Salad, Vegetable Tagine, Savory Crepe, Braised Portobellos, Pear Tarte Tatin

Vegetarian.  One word so plump with connotations. Practicing produce-eaters proudly wear it like a badge, while carnivores utter the v-word disdainfully, as if it's a disease they hope to never catch.  I tend to veer towards the latter, for as an ardent omnivore, I crave meals that feature all the food groups.  I want my sautéed kale with a rib-eye, my Blue Lake beans with pancetta.  Consequently, I seldom frequent vegetarian restaurants, until I discovered Elf Cafe.

What differentiates Elf from the usual veg-o-bistros, is that Chef Scott Zwiezen doesn't employ the standard practice of recreating veggie versions of meat classics, which often leads to bland, unsuccessful dishes (mock reuben, anyone?) .  You won't find faux-anything on the menu--just straight up, bomb-ass vegetarian food, thanks to the abundance of organic ingredients and flavorful, Middle-Eastern spices.  Vegans and gluten-free folk will also find plenty to eat. Elf showed me that vegetarian fare can be just as hearty, tasty, and even as naughty as its carnivorous counterparts. They do it without being preachy or shoving anti-meat dogma down your throat.  It's all about the vegetables, baby.
 

Upon entering Elf Cafe, you'll be welcomed by Astara, one of the co-owners, who is as equally ethereal as she is enthusiastic. Cozy is an understatement at this intimate, jewel-box of a space, with exposed brick-walls and sultry, low lighting.  Inside, tuck into a table or eat at the kitchen-side bar. Outside, watch the Echo Parkers strut by.

Smoked Paprika Dip
 Every meal at Elf begins with an amuse-dip: a thoughtful gesture considering that even bread & butter doesn't come for free these days. Here, smoked paprika perks up your palate for the upcoming eats.  

Tahini Avocado Purée
Dreamy and creamy, this Arabic-spin on guacamole is adorned with wrinkly, black olives and roasted garlic.  

Baked Sheep Feta and Tomatoes
The baked feta has browned, crisp edges reminiscent of Mac and Cheese--a carb-free version of a childhood fave. Accompanied with more of those tasty, Moroccan olives and roasted tomatoes that smack of summer.

Spicy Kale Salad
While I like my kale uncooked, sometimes it feels like I'm eating pure roughage.  Here, raw kale is gussied up with charmoula (cilantro, parsley, cumin, cayenne) dressing and harissa (Moroccan chili paste).  Topped with avocado, this is the best kale salad in town.     

Vegetable Tagine
This hearty bowl o' comfort features farmers market veggies bathed in traditional Moroccan flavors, like cumin, turmeric, and paprika. Served with quinoa and a side of the aforementioned, homemade harissa, for those who crave an extra kick.

Braised Portobello MushroomThe 'shroom brims with a decadently,creamy goat-cheese risotto.  Combined with luscious mashed potatoes, tender asparagus, and a charred tomato, my friend, Tara's, one-word review says it all:  "Transcendent". 

Vegan Banana Tart
Browned-butter goodness, with crunchy pistachios, tangy pomegranate seeds, and a crock of heavy cream for good measure.  

FYI, Elf is cash-only and BYOB, but an ATM and booze can be found a few doors down at King Liquors, which is stocked with micro-brews, but mediocre wine (so plan accordingly).  Reservations are encouraged, but you can expand your beer horizons while you wait at adjacent Mohawk Bend.   Elf will be expanding soon, so go soon if you want to catch the original, adorable version that has been delighting me for the past six years.