No Need To Starve. It's The Year Of The Snake.

Last night I dreamed I devoured a snake. I had slow-roasted it, like a pig on a spit, split it down the middle and scooped out its steaming flesh with my fingers.  As I lay in bed contemplating the oddity of my slithering supper, it hit me: It's the Year Of The Snake.

Ancient Chinese lore states that a snake in the house ensures your family won't starve. To guarantee you won't go hungry for Chinese cooking, let's take a trip to the largest Chinese-American community in the U.S.

Just 20 miles from L.A., the San Gabriel Valley isn’t your cliché Chinatown: tourists, tchotchkes and a towering, dragon gate.  It is China-Country--200 square miles of authentic eats.  Like many SoCal spots, the SGV is a sea of nondescript strip malls, but you don’t come here to ogle architecture.  You visit to lunch like a native, dine on the cheap, and break free from your usual General Tso‘s.

JTYH Restaurant   Rosemead, CA

9425 Valley Blvd     626.442.8999  

On Rosemead’s Valley Boulevard, the “Broadway Of Chinese Eats”, JTYH Restaurant specializes in Shanxi knife-cut noodles.  Shaved from a log of dough. these spongy, glutenous noodles come cold or in hot broth with a variety of tasty toppings. 

Dan Dan Mian

We opt for the sesame sauce, which clings to the thick noodles like skin on a snake.  When tossed with scallions, egg, and cucumber, it makes for a cool and nutty dish. 

Pan-Fried Bao

 Like a Tootsie Pop for the porcine-inclined, these pork-filled balls are crunchy on the outside and pillowy soft inside.  What a difference a pan makes.  

Leek Pancake

Listed as Pan Fried Buns on the menu, these empanada-like beauties are stuffed with sautéed leeks. They're a welcome dose of green in our decadently, doughy lunch.  

Beef Roll

A cross between a bahn-mi and a burrito, this tasty, two-hander has thinly-sliced beef, cucumber, scallions, cilatnro, and sweet hoisin sauce.  FYI, Westsiders can find this at 101 Noodle Express in Fox Hills Mall.  

Black Rice Congee

 The friendly owner offers us this traditional, Chinese dessert: a black rice and red bean porridge that is pungent with just a hint of sweet.  

Tan Cang Newport Seafood  San Gabriel, Ca

www.newportseafood.com

Celebrating with friends? Head to the bustling Tan Cang Newport Seafood.  You'll find all the trimmings you'd expect from a Chinese-Vietnamese food palace: tanks of ginormous crabs & lobsters, lazy Susans and large parties gorging on endless amounts of food. When consuming Chinese, I have two rules: 1. Go with a group--to allow for an ample array of dishes 2. Go with a native--both to ensure authenticity and to assist with translating non-English menus. Thanks to my acquaintance, Harry, who organizes SGV outings with his Chinese friend, Herb, I played by my rules and won big.  Tucked in a private room lined with red, Asian lattice, we supped like kings, yet paid like paupers--a dozen dishes for $25 a pop.   

Hot and Sour Soup

Our feast begins with a traditional hot & sour soup. Like a Chinese tea ceremony--where boiling water prepares the pots for the tea--this viscous, pungent soup warms our bellies for the bountiful banquet.

Newport Special Lobster

The pièce de résistance of TCNS is a dazzling mess of roughly hacked lobster fried in garlic sauce.  Doused with green-onions, lobster innards and peppers, I prefer this sloppy goodness to a plain ol' lobster any day. 

Salt & Pepper Prawns

 With equal enormity and sauce to the lobster, these crispy prawns come baked, not fried. Forget the knife and fork - you'll want to lick your salty fingers after each bite.

Clams in Spicy Hot Sauce

Plump clams are bathed in Thai basil, jalapeno, garlic, and ginger. A medley of marvelous flavors in a soothing broth. 

House Special Noodle

 Perfectly-cooked squid, shrimp, chicken and bok choy blanket a bed of crispy noodles.  This clean and simple preparation balances out the spicy wallop of the other dishes. 

Beef Loc Lac

When you've had your fill of oceanic flavors, order the Beef Loc Lac--one of the most popular plates here.  A Vietnamese specialty, cubes of beef tenderloin lacquered in black pepper sauce are served a top charred peppers and onions.  

Slices of fresh oranges end the meal, providing both a sweet finish and a natural hand cleanser. If you fancy something more substantial, a branch of Phoenix Bakery is located just down the street.

A Taco For The Fritos Fan

Trailer Park Truck Los Angeles Dec. '12
www.trailerparktruck.com

I don't do Doritos, but Fritos make me swoon.

On their own, the corn chips are finger-licking, salty good, but did you know they make an awesome topping for homemade chili?  Turn that chili upside down (so top the Fritos with meat) and, voila, Frito Pie. Pop it all in a bag, like at the Southern grubbin' Trailer Park Truck, and you have a genius concoction: the walking taco.

Blue Ribbon Frito Pie

The aforementioned Fritos are smothered with 100% Angus ground beef and an oozy homemade cheese sauce, so good it reinforces why we all should avoid Velveeta.  Applewood bacon crumbles, a Thousand-Island-esque secret sauce and those fried onion strings that turn the canned soup classic, Green Bean Casserole, from yuck to yum.  Unlike Miller Lite, this tastes great..and is VERY filling!

Shotgun Shells ''n Cheese 

Moisture is the key to a successful Mac 'n Cheese. Here, three cheeses ensure that gooey goodness permeates each bite. Garnished with buttery breadcrumbs and optional bacon crumbles--a manly amount that will make any pork lover squeal.   

Stick-to-your-ribs food like this should probably not be consumed daily. But the next time I need my Fritos fix--or am experiencing post-drinking hunger pains--I'm heading to the Trailer Park.  

Care For A Smoke?

Swingin' Door Texas BBQ North Hollywood March '12
www.swingindoortexasbbq.com


Unleaded, Supreme, or Tri-tip? Leave it to L.A. to have bomb-ass BBQ at a gas station.


Just as the name implies, Swingin' Door Texas BBQ serves up authentic 'cue from the Lone Star state. Located on a nondescript, Noho corner, it's easy to miss, in spite of the two giant smokers out front. Look out for a bright, hokey Western mural, a wagon-wheel lined patio, and bales of hay. The cowboy kitsch not only detracts from the unfortunate proximity to gas pumps, but is a sweet n' cheesy homage to Hollywood production design.


Follow the fragrant smoke through the swingin' (alas, glass) door. Inside, effort has been made to spiff up the stark space, with painted brick trim and cowboys and "wanted" poster wallpaper. Mosey up to the counter where friendly staff take your order. The menu features the usual, smoked suspects, with quality ingredients like organic chicken and Angus beef.


My hands-down favorite, the brisket sandwich, is the best I've had in town. The moist morsels of meat are, dare I say, succulent, especially after my share of overly-dry brisket. Slathered in sauce, the beef has just enough fat to add flavor without causing a coronary. The accompanying pickles are even better when stuffed in the sloppy sandwich. Homemade coleslaw is simple, but offers a refreshing crunch.




Like the brisket, the ribs are tender, tasty, and not overwhelmingly fatty. The finger-licking good BBQ sauce comes mild or spicy, the latter a mellow, peppery heat. If you crave more kick, the Hot Sauce Zone offers a plethora of piquant selections. The mac and cheese is decent, more appealing for its nostalgia than its flavor. Wash it all down with sugary-sweet lemonade. I had no room for dessert, but the state fair favorite, deep-fried Twinkies and Oreos, is available for the adventurous.



For my fellow costumers who work at Western Costume Company, Swingin' Door Texas BBQ is located just across the street. For all others, it's worth the trip. After all, the Valley isn't as far as Texas.

Little. Inexpensive. Comfort

El Ay Si Long Island City, Queens 9 September 10
www.elaysi.com
eat: Seared Calamari, Burger, Tater Tots, Green Beans
sip: Remy Pannier Vouvray, Vega Murillo Tempranillo

The other night, my friend, Sarah, suggested we meet in Queens, where we could have our pick of eats from the plethora of bars and restaurants along Vernon Ave. Normally, I would have gone online to forage the plethora of internet reviews to help guide our search. However, having just moved to NY from LA, I was excited to explore a new neighborhood and make our dinner choice the old-fashioned way - in person. In LA, since you are often driving to dinner, it is necessary to know beforehand where you will be dining. Plus, a good restaurant doesn't need to have an appealing exterior to entice passerbys. Yet, I do relish the simple joy of stumbling upon a culinary gem. Whether it's the waft of fresh baked bread, sun-drenched sidewalk tables, or an adorable sign that catches my eye, I like to have the senses be my guide.



At first, El Ay Si beckons us visually; the exposed brick, the candlelit glow, the cozy, dark wood booths à deux and, thanks to a balmy September night, the welcoming, open doors. Next, our ears perk up to Radiohead and Arcade Fire; food always tastes better with a dollop of good tunes. When we scan the small, yet appealing menu - a blend of comfort food and Mexican dishes - we are hooked. As we nestle into our nook, I have a eureka moment (this is for other food photojournalists out there): the booths feature individual lamps that eliminate the use of a pesky, unflattering flash.




Sarah has been craving a burger and this one hits the jackpot. It's a hefty 1/2 pound of super-juicy, delicious meat topped with lettuce, tomato, and caramelized red onions on a classic white bun. The accompanying sweet potato fries are awesome; sometimes the use of the healthier orange tuber produces a drier, overly-starchy fry, but these are finger-licking good. Plus, at $10, this combo is a steal.




Rather than ordering an entree, I decide to cobble together a meal of small plates. First is the Grilled Calamari, which is simply prepared with olive oil and sea salt. Although I'm a fan of the ubiquitous fried version, sometimes the squid becomes soggy or overly-heavy under all that breading. Here, the calamari are wonderfully chewy and light - a squirt of lime is all you need.





Comfort food has experienced a massive resurgence lately - chefs are reinterpreting classics by replacing processed ingredients with fresh ones, creating a haute-comfort cuisine. However, I'm tickled that one of the old-school standbys (and my childhood fave), tater tots, are popping up on menus around town. Here, a heaping mountain of taters arrive with an addictive, spicy chipotle mayo dipping sauce. You can also order them, and the fries, "Disco Style" - smothered with cheese and gravy. Genius.




To fuel my veggie fix, I get a side of green beans, which are glistening with butter, garlic, and fresh herbs. Thanks to the al-dente preparation, they are crunchy and flavorful. Like the previous dishes, this isn't a wimpy portion of beans, but a "Hungry Man" size serving that will satisfy more than your daily allowance of vegetables.




If you are interested in an imbibing-only eve, there is a long, welcoming bar in the front of the restaurant. In addition to classic cocktails and a decent menu of international brews, wine is offered at a reasonable range of $25-$42. I'm clinging to the end of summer, so I sip a golden, apple-y Remy Pannier Vouvray. Sarah embraces autumn with a medium-bodied, berry-licious Vega Murillo Tempranillo One of my favorite, tongue-in-cheek offerings is the "Highroller" a 3-liter magnum bottle (or 24 glasses) of Marwood Prosecco for a clean hundred. It's celebration, El Ay Si style.



This is a neighborhood joint through and through, from the amicable service to the wallet-friendly prices. It's good for a quick nosh or a long, lingering meal, an early dinner with kids or a weekend brunch. When our friendly waitress brings the check, she warmly gives us a $10 off coupon which illustrates our review perfectly: two enthusiastic thumbs up :)




Deal Alert - 20% off wine on Sundays-Tuesdays