No Meat. No Problem.

Elf Cafe  Echo Park

www.elfcafe.com

eat: Tahini Avocado Purée, Baked Feta & Tomatoes, Mediterranean Lentils, Spicy Kale Salad, Vegetable Tagine, Savory Crepe, Braised Portobellos, Pear Tarte Tatin

Vegetarian.  One word so plump with connotations. Practicing produce-eaters proudly wear it like a badge, while carnivores utter the v-word disdainfully, as if it's a disease they hope to never catch.  I tend to veer towards the latter, for as an ardent omnivore, I crave meals that feature all the food groups.  I want my sautéed kale with a rib-eye, my Blue Lake beans with pancetta.  Consequently, I seldom frequent vegetarian restaurants, until I discovered Elf Cafe.

What differentiates Elf from the usual veg-o-bistros, is that Chef Scott Zwiezen doesn't employ the standard practice of recreating veggie versions of meat classics, which often leads to bland, unsuccessful dishes (mock reuben, anyone?) .  You won't find faux-anything on the menu--just straight up, bomb-ass vegetarian food, thanks to the abundance of organic ingredients and flavorful, Middle-Eastern spices.  Vegans and gluten-free folk will also find plenty to eat. Elf showed me that vegetarian fare can be just as hearty, tasty, and even as naughty as its carnivorous counterparts. They do it without being preachy or shoving anti-meat dogma down your throat.  It's all about the vegetables, baby.
 

Upon entering Elf Cafe, you'll be welcomed by Astara, one of the co-owners, who is as equally ethereal as she is enthusiastic. Cozy is an understatement at this intimate, jewel-box of a space, with exposed brick-walls and sultry, low lighting.  Inside, tuck into a table or eat at the kitchen-side bar. Outside, watch the Echo Parkers strut by.

Smoked Paprika Dip
 Every meal at Elf begins with an amuse-dip: a thoughtful gesture considering that even bread & butter doesn't come for free these days. Here, smoked paprika perks up your palate for the upcoming eats.  

Tahini Avocado Purée
Dreamy and creamy, this Arabic-spin on guacamole is adorned with wrinkly, black olives and roasted garlic.  

Baked Sheep Feta and Tomatoes
The baked feta has browned, crisp edges reminiscent of Mac and Cheese--a carb-free version of a childhood fave. Accompanied with more of those tasty, Moroccan olives and roasted tomatoes that smack of summer.

Spicy Kale Salad
While I like my kale uncooked, sometimes it feels like I'm eating pure roughage.  Here, raw kale is gussied up with charmoula (cilantro, parsley, cumin, cayenne) dressing and harissa (Moroccan chili paste).  Topped with avocado, this is the best kale salad in town.     

Vegetable Tagine
This hearty bowl o' comfort features farmers market veggies bathed in traditional Moroccan flavors, like cumin, turmeric, and paprika. Served with quinoa and a side of the aforementioned, homemade harissa, for those who crave an extra kick.

Braised Portobello MushroomThe 'shroom brims with a decadently,creamy goat-cheese risotto.  Combined with luscious mashed potatoes, tender asparagus, and a charred tomato, my friend, Tara's, one-word review says it all:  "Transcendent". 

Vegan Banana Tart
Browned-butter goodness, with crunchy pistachios, tangy pomegranate seeds, and a crock of heavy cream for good measure.  

FYI, Elf is cash-only and BYOB, but an ATM and booze can be found a few doors down at King Liquors, which is stocked with micro-brews, but mediocre wine (so plan accordingly).  Reservations are encouraged, but you can expand your beer horizons while you wait at adjacent Mohawk Bend.   Elf will be expanding soon, so go soon if you want to catch the original, adorable version that has been delighting me for the past six years. 

Get Your Thrill At Red Hill

Red Hill  Echo Park March '12
www.redhillrestaurant.com
eat: Burrata, Cauliflower, Sunchokes, Venison Meatballs, Braised Lamb, Roast Duck, Rotisserie Chicken, Pork Shank, Bread Pudding
sip: Viña Clavidor Verdejo '10, Hedges Red Mountain '08


3 days.  That's how much time passed between my first and second visit to Red Hill.  Normally, if I enjoy my inaugural dining experience, I vow to come back soon, but then get distracted by new openings, random cravings, and my ever-growing list of Places I Want To Try.  It can take months to return. Not so at Red Hill, the 4-month young Echo Park restaurant, where my first time was such a charm, I was lured back immediately.  Red Hill is a true neighborhood joint: it's open 7 days a week, serves 3 meals a day, and is within walking distance to many Echo Parkers.  Plus, the prices are wonderfully low considering the quality of the food--if this was Beverly, not Red, Hill, you'd be paying double for the deliciousness.  The staff is genuinely friendly, continuing the trend of owner Jason Michaud's other resto, Silver Lake's Local.  Chef Trevor Rocco (pictured top) is a zen master in the open kitchen.  Even on a bustling Friday night, he calmly orchestrates orders without any visible stress, even stopping to let me snap a photo.

Viña Clavidor Verdejo 2010
Even white wine naysayers will like this food-friendly Verdejo: a Spanish, medium-bodied quaff brimming with minerality and nectarines

Hedges Red Mountain 2008
This bountiful blend of red varietals (namely Cab Sav, Merlot, Syrah, and Cab Franc) is plump and smooth, without being overly jammy.  Normally only offered by the bottle, our waitress hooks us up with glasses--a generous gesture not uncommon here.

Burrata, Beet Greens Pesto, Peas, Zucchini, Frisee, Red Endive
Hello Spring! Burrata's creamy lusciousness is tempered by garden-fresh veggies and a most delectable beet green pesto.  

Cauliflower, Oregano, Pine Nuts, Chili Aioli
Who knew cauliflower could be so decadent? Browned and buttery, tossed generously with pine nuts, fresh oregano, and a smoky spiced aioli, I wholeheartedly dub this the best brasssica in L.A.

Venison Meatballs, Smoked Eggplant, Pickled Hot Peppers
Venison gives gamey heft to the common meatball. Paired with garlicky & smoky eggplant purée and piquant peppers, it's a most tasty trifecta.

Sunchokes, Black Radish, Apple Gastrique
Cut in big chunks, these roasted sunchokes become spudlike, yet with that earthy, artichoke goodness that is the hallmark of this vegetable.    

Roasted Duck, Yams, Whiskey Jus
Exquisitely crispy skin, moist meat, roast wedges of yam, and tangy whiskey sauce.  Thank you, Trevor, for serving duck without its usual, cloyingly sweet accoutrements.  Perfection! 

Spit-roasted 1/2 chicken, Baby Yukons, Mustard Greens
"You can always judge a place by its chicken" says my dinner date, Anna. Here, it's scrumptious, not surprising due to the kitchen's rotisserie oven (in full view from our perch at the bar). Served with the traditional sides of greens and potatoes, this is classic comfort.

Telegraph Winter Ale Braised Lamb, Cippolini Onions, Brown Butter Mash
Thanks to its beer bath, the lamb is savory and tender.  Atop a caramelized heap of onions and buttery, mashed potatoes, each bite is satisfyingly good.

Apple Cider Pork Shank, Collard Greens
Size does matter with this Flinstone-sized shank.  No knife required for this fall-off-the bone succulence, which goes swimmingly with hearty greens.

Banana Bread Pudding  
 For me, the simpler the better when it comes to desserts. The buttery, piping-hot bread pudding is seductively slathered with a cool cascade of freshly whipped cream.  Yum.

An Apple a Day

Northern Spy Food Co. East Village 13 November 10
www.northernspyfoodco.com
eat: Housemade Granola and Yogurt, Kale Salad, Corned Beef Hash, Biscuits
sip: Strongtree Coffee


My apple fetish began with an October road trip upstate. Surrounded by stunning fall foliage, I munched apple donuts, sipped hot cider, and chomped on freshly-picked apples. Back in the city, I baked comforting crumbles weekly. Even my Halloween costume - a leafy homage to autumn - was inspired by apples. When New York Magazine published Beyond Delicious, a visual apple-ography of Greenmarket offerings, it was exciting as the September Issue of Vogue. As I scanned the myriad of heirloom apple varieties, one name caught my eye, Northern Spy, both for the mouth-watering description and also because it had a familiar ring to it. Where did I know it from? Then I remembered that East Village restaurant that kept catching my eye: Northern Spy Food Co.


Named after the aforementioned New York apple, Northern Spy Food Co. is a welcoming, neighborhood restaurant that focuses on local, seasonal fare. Last weekend, I dropped by for brunch with my amigas. It is an adorable joint that brims with homey cuteness - vintage wallpaper, Robin Egg blue benches, even an apple-scented bathroom air freshener - without being too precious. Their sustainability credo extends beyond the food; most of the interior design stems from salvaged materials, including the wooden dining tables made from bowling alley lanes. We are seated in a cozy nook (pictured above) who's diminutive size is well-suited for sharing and gossip.



Our brunch begins with warm, house-made biscuits and pear jam. Normally, I'm such a butter-junkie that I tend to spread it on any breakfast pastry, but these golden biscuits taste as if a pat of butter went into each bite. The accompanying pear jam is just-plucked-from-the-tree fresh. Dare I be so bold in saying these are the best biscuits I've had in NYC so far....




Housemade Granola and Yogurt The whole-milk, organic yogurt is European-style, aka runny, which is a welcome change from the popular, dense Greek version . Sweetened with honey, the toasted granola brims with pecans, oats, and cinnamon-y goodness. If the granola was served atop ice cream, it would be dessert, but yogurt lets it sneak into the "breakfast" category.






Corned Beef Hash The ubiquitous brunch dish is a standout here. No dry, canned cubed beef of lore, but hefty chunks of brined Heritage Beef Brisket. The meat is so juicy that a pool of beefy gravy bastes the confit potatoes and perfectly poached, Feather Ridge Farm eggs.




Kale Salad We round out our meal with a seasonal salad: a mountain of frazzled kale, ribbons of clothbound cheddar, chunks of delicata squash, and crunchy almonds. Kudos to the chef for this preparation. By shredding the kale, this hardy roughage is less overbearing and mixes well with the other ingredients Per our waitress' suggestion, we order two baked eggs atop the salad. Their runny yolks make an egg-y dressing creating a Caesar salad-brunch style. Looks like I'm not the only fan - the recipe was just posted in NY Magazine.


In addition to the food, Northern Spy Food Co. has other benefits that make for an enjoyable brunch . The Strongtree Coffee is tasty and mirrors the local/organic vibe of the foodstuffs. There were wooden benches outside to help make the brunch wait bearable, and once inside, we ate at a leisurely pace without ever feeling rushed. If I lived in the neighborhood, I could see myself frequenting Northern Spy Food Co. often. It is high-quality, low-cost grub served in a friendly environment. Like it's mascot, it is the kind of place you should have once a day.