No Need To Starve. It's The Year Of The Snake.

Last night I dreamed I devoured a snake. I had slow-roasted it, like a pig on a spit, split it down the middle and scooped out its steaming flesh with my fingers.  As I lay in bed contemplating the oddity of my slithering supper, it hit me: It's the Year Of The Snake.

Ancient Chinese lore states that a snake in the house ensures your family won't starve. To guarantee you won't go hungry for Chinese cooking, let's take a trip to the largest Chinese-American community in the U.S.

Just 20 miles from L.A., the San Gabriel Valley isn’t your cliché Chinatown: tourists, tchotchkes and a towering, dragon gate.  It is China-Country--200 square miles of authentic eats.  Like many SoCal spots, the SGV is a sea of nondescript strip malls, but you don’t come here to ogle architecture.  You visit to lunch like a native, dine on the cheap, and break free from your usual General Tso‘s.

JTYH Restaurant   Rosemead, CA

9425 Valley Blvd     626.442.8999  

On Rosemead’s Valley Boulevard, the “Broadway Of Chinese Eats”, JTYH Restaurant specializes in Shanxi knife-cut noodles.  Shaved from a log of dough. these spongy, glutenous noodles come cold or in hot broth with a variety of tasty toppings. 

Dan Dan Mian

We opt for the sesame sauce, which clings to the thick noodles like skin on a snake.  When tossed with scallions, egg, and cucumber, it makes for a cool and nutty dish. 

Pan-Fried Bao

 Like a Tootsie Pop for the porcine-inclined, these pork-filled balls are crunchy on the outside and pillowy soft inside.  What a difference a pan makes.  

Leek Pancake

Listed as Pan Fried Buns on the menu, these empanada-like beauties are stuffed with sautéed leeks. They're a welcome dose of green in our decadently, doughy lunch.  

Beef Roll

A cross between a bahn-mi and a burrito, this tasty, two-hander has thinly-sliced beef, cucumber, scallions, cilatnro, and sweet hoisin sauce.  FYI, Westsiders can find this at 101 Noodle Express in Fox Hills Mall.  

Black Rice Congee

 The friendly owner offers us this traditional, Chinese dessert: a black rice and red bean porridge that is pungent with just a hint of sweet.  

Tan Cang Newport Seafood  San Gabriel, Ca

www.newportseafood.com

Celebrating with friends? Head to the bustling Tan Cang Newport Seafood.  You'll find all the trimmings you'd expect from a Chinese-Vietnamese food palace: tanks of ginormous crabs & lobsters, lazy Susans and large parties gorging on endless amounts of food. When consuming Chinese, I have two rules: 1. Go with a group--to allow for an ample array of dishes 2. Go with a native--both to ensure authenticity and to assist with translating non-English menus. Thanks to my acquaintance, Harry, who organizes SGV outings with his Chinese friend, Herb, I played by my rules and won big.  Tucked in a private room lined with red, Asian lattice, we supped like kings, yet paid like paupers--a dozen dishes for $25 a pop.   

Hot and Sour Soup

Our feast begins with a traditional hot & sour soup. Like a Chinese tea ceremony--where boiling water prepares the pots for the tea--this viscous, pungent soup warms our bellies for the bountiful banquet.

Newport Special Lobster

The pièce de résistance of TCNS is a dazzling mess of roughly hacked lobster fried in garlic sauce.  Doused with green-onions, lobster innards and peppers, I prefer this sloppy goodness to a plain ol' lobster any day. 

Salt & Pepper Prawns

 With equal enormity and sauce to the lobster, these crispy prawns come baked, not fried. Forget the knife and fork - you'll want to lick your salty fingers after each bite.

Clams in Spicy Hot Sauce

Plump clams are bathed in Thai basil, jalapeno, garlic, and ginger. A medley of marvelous flavors in a soothing broth. 

House Special Noodle

 Perfectly-cooked squid, shrimp, chicken and bok choy blanket a bed of crispy noodles.  This clean and simple preparation balances out the spicy wallop of the other dishes. 

Beef Loc Lac

When you've had your fill of oceanic flavors, order the Beef Loc Lac--one of the most popular plates here.  A Vietnamese specialty, cubes of beef tenderloin lacquered in black pepper sauce are served a top charred peppers and onions.  

Slices of fresh oranges end the meal, providing both a sweet finish and a natural hand cleanser. If you fancy something more substantial, a branch of Phoenix Bakery is located just down the street.

East Meets West

Son Of A Gun West Hollywood, CA
www.sonofagunrestaurant.com
eat: Smoked Mahi Dip, Brandade, Puntarelle, Local Squid, Hiramasa, Octopus Confit Salad, Mussels, Escolar, Steak & Oysters, Peach & Raspberry Pie, Frozen Lime Yogurt
sip: Domaine De La Renaudie Brut, Lacryma Christi Vigna del Vulcano

Dreams of clam strips are dancing in my head.  Tonight, I head to my Connecticut, childhood home, where I will load up on fried fish, butter-sautéed scallops, and lobster rolls .  Living in L.A., land of many flavors, I have my pick of international eats, yet I lament the lack of seafood shacks of my youth.  Sure, there's the PCH standbys, Neptune's Net and Reel Inn, and Santa Monica's BP Oysterette, but head inland and the choices are slim.  That is until Son Of A Gun came to town.

At Son Of A Gun, pescatarian prowess is brought to you by the masters of meat, Animal's Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo.  Their whimsical menu of maritime delights teems with fresh-caught goodness. Imagine the simplicity of an East Coast joint with West Coast flavors (Mexican habaneros and Asian yuzu), farmers' market finds (purple artichokes and black garlic), and the gastronomic gusto that have made Shook and Dotolo famous.

Nautical knick-knacks cover the sky-blue walls, captain chairs line the bar, and black & white fisherman pics decorate the bathrooms.   Checks arrive on anchovy tins and cocktails come in mason jars.  The hip, plaid-shirted waitstaff is knowledgeable, laid-back, and so friendly you want them to join you.  Each time I've dined here--at the communal table or not--conversation with neighboring diners ensues whether offering fries to taste or recommending favorite dishes.  We forget we are on bustling 3rd Street in L.A.--inside, we are in a cozy, seaside haunt along the Atlantic.  Even in L.A., where summer never seems to end, this place smacks of summer.

Bubbly

When eating fish, I prefer a chilled white wine or a glass of bubbly, like the toasty Domaine de la Renaudie Brut.  Also on deck are microbrews, classic cocktails, a refreshing shandy, even alcoholic tiki-cones!

Smoked Mahi Fish Dip

I'm half-Jewish, but 100% obsessed with smoked fish.  Here, a tasty dip of smoked mahi mahi, mayo, and lemon comes with a garden-fresh garnish of celery ribbons, onions, and paper-thin radishes.  What better way to start off a fishy feast?  

Brandade

Best of the bunch (if there can be just one).   On its own, brandade--salt cod potato purée--is great, but with an oozy, poached egg on top, it is transcendent.  With grainy mustard and a generous handful of arugula, this is a one-dish wonder.  The accompanying fried bread is scandalously good.

Puntarelle

Puntarelle, a bitter, dandelion-like green, is mixed with earthy Fava beans, baby purple artichokes, chaparral--a tangy, local sheep/goat cheese, and lemon.  Seasonal bounty at its best. 

Hiramasa

As colorful as fruit cocktail, Hiramasa (aka yellowtail) is tossed with serrano chiles, peaches, and yuzu, that delightful citrus that marries tart grapefruit and sweet orange. 

Squid

The plate is so pretty with purple flowers that I don't want to disturb it.   Local squid is both braised and fried, with Texas caviar (aka black-eyed peas), black garlic, and a brilliant invention they dub "corn butter".

Octopus Confit Salad

 Love the unique preparation of the octopus, which is braised, sliced thin, then grilled to charred perfection.  It is deliciously tossed in a vinaigrette with pickled mirepoix, chickpeas, radicchio and parsley.  

Mussels

Visually, the mussels look naked without their shells, but their lack of coverage allows the delectable Pernod, cream, tarragon, and fennel broth to penetrate these bivalves.  Like skinny-dipping, some things are better nude.  Soak up the anise-y broth with fried bread or a la carte frites.

Escolar

One of my favorite, yet hard to find, fishes, escolar is as succulent as salmon, yet firm & white like swordfish.  Here, it is roasted crisp on one side and served with luscious, truffled pomme purée, sautéed mushrooms, and chicken jus.    A hearty meat & potatoes dish for pescatarians.  Warning: escolar is known as the "eat and run fish" (I'll let you figure that out), but thankfully I'm not one who gets affected. 

Hanger Steak

Not surprisingly, their version of  "surf and turf" is scandalously rich.  Succulent chunks of Niman Ranch hanger steak cozy up next to crispy, fried oysters.  Bathed in a buttery Bérnaise and topped with fresh tarragon, it's "surf and turf" one could only expect from chefs nicknamed "Two Dudes".

Frozen Lime Yogurt

This deconstructed key lime pie is a tasty twist on a classic.  Tart lime fro-yo + graham cookie crumbles + a toasted smear of meringue = yum. 

Peach, Raspberry, Blueberry Pie

An homage to summer fruit, this is pie perfection.  The warm & gooey fruit is cooled by tangy, buttermilk ice cream. The caramelized crust is reminiscent of a sugary, crème brûlée top.  For me, the best pies are those that can be eaten for breakfast - this one definitely fits the bill. 

The magnificent, and incredibly popular, fried chicken sammy is not pictured because, er, my hands were covered in coleslaw and Sirracha aioli.   You can check out my previous post on their lobster roll here

When Son Of A Gun first opened in March '11, reservations were as hard to score as court-side, Lakers tix.   The hostesses would amicably invite you to try the first-come-first-serve communal table, yet even that was inpenetrable.  Hindered by the hype, I avoided the restaurant for 5 months, until my hankering for seafood got the best of me.  One year and many meals later, Son Of A Gun is still busy, but easier to visit.  Nevertheless, I suggest going mid-week or off-hours to ensure you get your fish on.

Hungry Hungry Kitty

Hungry Cat Hollywood 21.March.10
www.thehungrycat.com
eat: Crab Cake Benedict with Pancetta and Black Kale, Tweety's Herb Scramble, Fresh Pastries, Pug Burger, Fish & Chips, and Asparagus, Pancetta, and Crispy Egg
sip:Blanche de Bruxelles, Bloody Marys, Grapefruit Michelada

In Los Angeles, a city where looks matter more than substance, paradoxically some of the best culinary gems are actually hidden - behind generic storefronts, in dingy mini malls, or off the beaten path. Hungry Cat is one of those eateries; although it's located in a mundane, cookie-cutter complex of chain stores and apartments, the food is anything but bland. In fact, the restaurant excels on so many levels - amazingly fresh seafood and fish (oh ,the oyseters!) , artisanal cocktails, amazing brunch - that one forgets about the unfortunate mall setting. I have two preferred ways of dining at Hungry Cat. Firstly, I like sitting at the bar, which provides a great view of libation creation and glimpses into the busy kitchen. Secondly, I love sitting outside for a leisurely brunch, which can last for hours once the Bloody Marys start flowing. Here's a few of my favorite things....


Unlike dinner, where dessert ends the meal, I like to start off brunch with some sweets; they're the sugary yin to coffee’s acidic yang. Thanks to the opening of Tavern, another fine Suzanne Goin establishment, Hungry Cat now serves fresh-baked pastries from Tavern’s bakery. Monkey Bread, the baked-good love child of cinnamon rolls and sugary donuts, is comforting goodness. The Pain au Chocolat is pure Paris; flaky and napkin-stained buttery with a bitter, dark chocolate. If you’ve never been to Paris, here’s your chance to taste the City of Lights.

Tweety's Herb Scramble With Fines Herbes, Shallots, Jack Cheese and Crème Fraiche This dish reminds me of how good simplicity - like grilled peaches or a tomato flecked with salt & pepper - tastes. I rarely order scrambles or omelettes because they often are over-sized, ingredient-heavy ( do I really need chorizo, avocado, cheddar, cilantro, tomato AND onion), and over-cooked so that the eggs are bland and dry. In this dish, eggs are celebrated as they should be, and brightened by fresh herbs and tangy crème fraiche. The breakfast potatoes, some of the best in town, are generously roasted in olive oil and tossed with hefty slivers of garlic and woodsy rosemary.


Crab Cake Benedict with Black Kale and Pancetta
A perfectly executed dish with each component combined to create umami, brunch-style. Moist, succulent crab cakes, salty prosciutto, perfectly poached eggs, velvety hollandaise and black kale, which when charred, is heightened to a crunchy, briny accoutrement.




Beer-battered Fish and Chips This popular pub dish is elevated to gourmet status with a chunky, fried caper aioli, fresh parsley, and fried lemon slices. The fish is moist and fresh, while the batter itself is surprisingly light and crispy. The super-salty, double-fried fries are frigging delicious, whether they are eaten unadorned, swimming in mussel broth, or dipped in the condiment of your choice.




The Pug Burger with Bacon, Avocado, Blue Cheese, and Fried Egg. Since the menu at Hungry Cat abounds with aquatic treasures, I rarely order meat here, but thanks to my carnivorous friend, Russell, I got to taste the burger. Now, I may be biased because I tend to like a flatter, puck-like patty and this version is more tennis ball-shaped, but I find the burger to be so-so. The problem for me lies in the meat itself; although it is high-quality ground beef, it is overwhelmingly fatty and rich. Plus, the burger "ball" is so tall that it's impossible to eat it with your hands - and a fork and knife takes away from the finger-licking grease of the burger experience.


Grilled Asparagus, House-Made Pancetta, Walnuts, and a Crispy Egg I love the purity of this dish; each ingredient on it's own is delicious, but when combined, the eggy, porky, green, nutty blend is wonderful. Although I've sampled versions of this dish around town, the breaded egg and the homemade pancetta make Hungry Cat's stand out from the crowd.


Blanche de Bruxelles Witbier. With hints of bitter orange and coriander, this refreshing Belgian white beer is a great brunch beer thanks to it's light, citrusy finish. Bloody Marys are garden-fresh-good and come in many versions like the Maryland Mary rimmed with Maryland Spice Mix and garnished with an oyster. In the summer, I'm a big fan of the Grapefruit Michelada, a tart, refreshing mix of fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice, tecate, in a salted-rim glass.