Mess With This Tex-Mex

Bar Amá  Downtown  March '13
www.bar-ama.com
eat: Queso Fundido, Fideo w/Octopus & Kielbasa, Peas & Grapes, Blood Sausage & Pork Cheeks, Mom's Green Enchiladas, Asparagus & Beets, Chicharrón, Frito Pie, Fennel & Snap Peas, Puffy Tacos, Sopapillas
sip: Nacho Vidal, Zapatista, Tahona Limon, Amá Old-Fashioned

Tex-Mex and I go way back.

For my first college gig, I hostessed at a rowdy, Tex-Mex restaurant: Caliente Cab Company. Famous for their frozen margaritas--evidenced by the monster cocktail beckoning from the facade--this was where locals went to get their tequila on, downing syrupy sweet margaritas or slamming shots wielded by bandolier-strapped waitresses. The edible offerings were cheesy, cheap, and filling--food was merely fuel for more boozing.

While Caliente was far from culinary, my experience there was meaningful. Within her trashy walls, I scored a fake ID, ventured beyond my NYU student body (while exploring the bodies of my male co-workers) and discovered the close-knit, motley crew that makes a restaurant hum. Nevertheless, after each shift, I would return to my dorm reeking of fajita smoke and fried chips, wishing I wanted to eat where I worked.

Enter Bar Amá, Chef Josef Centeno's answer to my freshman year dreams. Embracing his Texan heritage, Bar Amá is an homage to the women (ama) who raised Centeno; it is his "interpretation of their cooking". Integrating his fondness for the farmers market, his mastery of meat, and his love of spice, Centeno slings classics (enchiladas, queso fundido) and originals while taking Angelenos on a tour of Mexican quesos and chilies.

As an ardent member of the Josef fan club--falling hard at Lazy Ox, then his first joint, Baco Mercat--I had high expectations for Bar Amá. After my first visit, I was surprised by my Caliente-like experience,  where the booze outshone the edible. Chalking it up to new-restaurant jitters, I returned again, and again, to find food fitting of Centeno's skills.


Befitting a downtown restaurant, the decor is more industrial (metal chairs, wood-beam walls) than Latino. Instead of tacky chili pepper lights and sombreros, the Mexican accents are authentic: traditional tiles and a towering wall of tequila behind the bar. Come thirsty, for the entire agave family (from mezcal to sotol) is on hand. Deft bartenders shake up more than margaritas; fresh juices, chilies, homemade shrubs and bitters infuse fun and potent quaffs that pair well with the flavorful food.

Nacho Vidal

Bartenders about town are breaking Campari free from its Negroni norm. Here, the blood-red bitter is blended with tequila blanco, chile-lime shrub, and honey. This sassy combo is reigning queen of my cocktail favorites.

Zapatista and Tahona Limon

 On the left, the Zapatista mixes serrano, cilatnro, citrus and honey with Cielo Rojo Bacanora, a lesser-known agave-based spirit that is a subtle version of its smoky cousin, mezcal. The Tahona Limon, mezcal, lime, and sugar, is a gimlet, Mexican-style. 

 Amá Old-Fashioned

If you prefer your tequila unfettered, opt for this Mexican twist on a classic. Tequila añejo, house bitters and orange peel will warm you up for the eating ahead. 

Queso Fundido

Scoop up this oozy triple threat of cheddar, Jack, and panela (a Mexican, paneer-like cheese). With avocado, sour cream, and salsa hidden below and chorizo on top, this gut-bomb begs to be shared.  

Fideo with Octopus and Kielbasa

With a wink to Centeno's Spanish roots, he serves traditional noodles, fideo, flavored with shrimp broth and chilies. Mingled with charred octopus, smoky kielbasa, and crunchy pepitas, this comforting combo is the table's top pick.

English Peas & Black Grapes

Verdant peas and tendrils, sweet grapes, spicy árbol chili, and tangy crema illustrate Centeno's skill at creating delicious out of quirky medleys.   

Blood Sausage & Pork Cheek

Centeno's brand of bodacious meats is showcased with this blood sausage and pork cheek hash.  Dished over wood-fired corn and quinoa, then topped with a fried egg, this brunch-like combo is how I want to start and end every day.

Mom's Green Enchiladas

Mom knows what's best, especially with these stellar enchiladas. Homemade, flour tortillas stuffed with chicken are doused in delectable tomatillo sauce, crema, and a coat of blistered Monterey Jack,  A tasty take on this homey classic.

Grilled Asparagus and Beets

Illustrating Centeno's penchant for seasonal produce, this dish welcomes the arrival of springtime asparagus as we bid adieu to winter beets. The veg are blanketed in luscious crema, slivered radish, spicy peppers, and hierba santa, a Central American leafy herb. As a student in Guatemala, I discovered hierba santa, which contains the same oil, safrole, used to make Ecstasy.  While the herb sadly doesn't trigger the same euphoria as the dance drug, this plate will bring you bliss.

Crispy Chicharrón & Poblano Cream

 A far cry from the salty snack with the same name. Here, chicharrón is pork belly not pork rinds, fried  crisp while tender inside. Dunked in pobalno cream and squirted with lime & bus driver (house-made hot sauce), they are equally savory as they are naughty.

Nana's Frito Pie

Be still my beating heart and clogged arteries. The corn chip classic, Frito Pie, is given a Centeno makeover with luscious lengua (tongue) chile con carne, house-made crema, mulato pepper. Yum!

Fennel & Snap Peas

Temper the hearty with this light and lovely melange of braised fennel, crunchy peas, queso fresco, and popped amaranth, an Aztec grain.  

Chorizo Puffy Taco

 The San Antonio signature, the puffy taco, has landed in L.A. Named for its deep-fried, tortilla shell, we opt for the house-made chorizo. While others have raved, ours arrived soggy and sparse on the fillings. Will try again next time...

Sopapillas & Mexican Chocolate

Although stuffed, I hadn't had sopapillas since my Caliente days. Deep-fried, tortilla pillows are dusted with powdered sugar & honey. Served with Mexican hot chocolate-spiced with chili, cinnamon, and Oaxacan sea salt, this is a sweet finish to our feast.

Before Bar Amá, my Tex-Mex memories were a tequila-tainted haze from my Caliente stint. Now, I'm able to get my agave and eat deliciously, too.

Springtime: Shaken, Not Stirred

Growing up in Connecticut, spring embodied an awakening of the senses.  After months of bitter cold and winter's dreary palette of white and grey, spring was a welcome burst of fragrant flowers, blue skies, and sun-kissed shoulders.  While L.A. doesn't have such a drastic change of seasons, springtime's arrival still delights me.  My Elysian Park hikes have wildflowers galore, the wisteria vines pop purple, and the farmers markets team with seasonal goodness, like pea tendrils, fava beans and green garlic.  April's bounty is even affecting my beverage consumption, inspiring me to sample garden-variety cocktails all over town.  Here are my favorite ways to get your daily allowance of fruits, veggies, and intoxication.

Stark Bar's G-Funk Era and Owl & Pussycat

Stark Bar @ LACMA  Mid-City West

A night at the museum doesn’t have to include Ben Stiller.  But, a night at LACMA must involve a visit to Stark Bar.  Lounge in lipstick-red chairs at this alfresco bar where cocktails are works of art.  Try the Owl and Pussycat, a lovely mix of rum, strawberries, lemon juice, simple syrup, and chili.  Reminiscent of red-pepper jelly, it's both sweet and spicy.  The G-funk Era features gin, grapefruit peel, Fever Tree tonic, and bitters.  The flavorful gin is made in-house using botanical herbs, like lemon verbena, from the museum's garden; now that's a locavore libation!  By day, Stark Bar buzzes with museum-goers. At night, it becomes a destination in its own right, as diners bask under the glow of Chris Burden's lamppost sculpture.  For you music-lovers, live jazz begins in May, on Friday nights and Saturday afternoons.

Picca's The Avocado Project and Sabertooth

Picca West L.A. 

I came to Picca in search of Ricardo Zarate's much-praised Peruvian cooking.  As (my version of) the saying goes,  "Behind every great chef there's a great mixologist".  At Picca, Julian Cox shakes, mixes, and muddles delicious proof to my proclamation.   My preferred potation, The Avocado Project, has 5 Island white rum, avocado, fresh lime juice, and agave nectar.  In all my years of boozing, I had never thought to combine avocado and alcohol, though there's been much practice with guacamole and margaritas.  Julian takes that perfect pairing, replaces tequila with rum, and creates one of the tastiest drinks I've ever swigged. Like egg whites, the avocado adds a frothy, creamy-ness without being cloying.  The Sabertooth is composed of cachaça, blueberries, apricot liquor, fresh lime, and simple syrup.  True to its name, it still packs a punch, in spite of its girly, purple hue. 

Hungry Cat's Petula Clark

Hungry Cat Hollywood

There are three clues that Hungry Cat offers fresh-squeezed cocktails 1: They are located a block from the Hollywood Farmers' Market  2. Giant pails of citrus and a massive, metal juicer line the bar  3. Chef-owner David Lentz is married to fellow, farm-to-table chef, Suzanne Goin.   In fact, the couple's garden is where Lentz found inspiration for his hand-crafted cocktails.  Try the Petula Clark: Pimm’s, Hayman’s Old Tom gin, egg white, homemade absinthe bitters, lemon, rosemary garnish. It's a gussied-up version of the classically British Pimm's cup.

Write Off

In honor of Tax Day, the drink du jour is the Write Off: cognac, Cara Cara juice, kumquat, and orange blossom water.   The tri-orange medley is so fragrant our friendly bartendress, Minnie, exclaims "I want to smell like this".  (Ask nice and she'll sneak you some kumquats for a healthy, bar snack).  At brunch, Hungry Cat's Bloody Marys (pictured at top) are the perfect hangover cure, packed with plucked-from-the-vine tomato goodness.

Fresh herbs atop the Library Bar

Library Bar Hollywood

After hearing mixmaster Matt Biancaniello interviewed while shopping at the Santa Monica's Farmers Market, I raced to the Library Bar to sample his cocktails.  Tucked off the lobby of the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, this jewel box of a bar is a hub for bespoke beverages.  No menu exists, so ordering consists of a conversation with Matt and his trusty staff.  Pick your poison, then an adjective or two. Be inspired by the treasure trove of herbs, fruits, and pickled yum lining the bar.  My request for "herbal gin" rewards me with a refreshing gin, cucumber, dill, and lime concoction.  "Spicy berries" leads to a lip-smacking rum, mixed berry, and chili drink.  Matt also excels at incorporating ingredients normally reserved for the kitchen--balsamic vinegar, arugula--in his libations.  A sip of his gin, sage, and curry creation is a savory delight.

Library Bar's Mixed Berries & Chili and Cucumber Dill

Little. Inexpensive. Comfort

El Ay Si Long Island City, Queens 9 September 10
www.elaysi.com
eat: Seared Calamari, Burger, Tater Tots, Green Beans
sip: Remy Pannier Vouvray, Vega Murillo Tempranillo

The other night, my friend, Sarah, suggested we meet in Queens, where we could have our pick of eats from the plethora of bars and restaurants along Vernon Ave. Normally, I would have gone online to forage the plethora of internet reviews to help guide our search. However, having just moved to NY from LA, I was excited to explore a new neighborhood and make our dinner choice the old-fashioned way - in person. In LA, since you are often driving to dinner, it is necessary to know beforehand where you will be dining. Plus, a good restaurant doesn't need to have an appealing exterior to entice passerbys. Yet, I do relish the simple joy of stumbling upon a culinary gem. Whether it's the waft of fresh baked bread, sun-drenched sidewalk tables, or an adorable sign that catches my eye, I like to have the senses be my guide.



At first, El Ay Si beckons us visually; the exposed brick, the candlelit glow, the cozy, dark wood booths à deux and, thanks to a balmy September night, the welcoming, open doors. Next, our ears perk up to Radiohead and Arcade Fire; food always tastes better with a dollop of good tunes. When we scan the small, yet appealing menu - a blend of comfort food and Mexican dishes - we are hooked. As we nestle into our nook, I have a eureka moment (this is for other food photojournalists out there): the booths feature individual lamps that eliminate the use of a pesky, unflattering flash.




Sarah has been craving a burger and this one hits the jackpot. It's a hefty 1/2 pound of super-juicy, delicious meat topped with lettuce, tomato, and caramelized red onions on a classic white bun. The accompanying sweet potato fries are awesome; sometimes the use of the healthier orange tuber produces a drier, overly-starchy fry, but these are finger-licking good. Plus, at $10, this combo is a steal.




Rather than ordering an entree, I decide to cobble together a meal of small plates. First is the Grilled Calamari, which is simply prepared with olive oil and sea salt. Although I'm a fan of the ubiquitous fried version, sometimes the squid becomes soggy or overly-heavy under all that breading. Here, the calamari are wonderfully chewy and light - a squirt of lime is all you need.





Comfort food has experienced a massive resurgence lately - chefs are reinterpreting classics by replacing processed ingredients with fresh ones, creating a haute-comfort cuisine. However, I'm tickled that one of the old-school standbys (and my childhood fave), tater tots, are popping up on menus around town. Here, a heaping mountain of taters arrive with an addictive, spicy chipotle mayo dipping sauce. You can also order them, and the fries, "Disco Style" - smothered with cheese and gravy. Genius.




To fuel my veggie fix, I get a side of green beans, which are glistening with butter, garlic, and fresh herbs. Thanks to the al-dente preparation, they are crunchy and flavorful. Like the previous dishes, this isn't a wimpy portion of beans, but a "Hungry Man" size serving that will satisfy more than your daily allowance of vegetables.




If you are interested in an imbibing-only eve, there is a long, welcoming bar in the front of the restaurant. In addition to classic cocktails and a decent menu of international brews, wine is offered at a reasonable range of $25-$42. I'm clinging to the end of summer, so I sip a golden, apple-y Remy Pannier Vouvray. Sarah embraces autumn with a medium-bodied, berry-licious Vega Murillo Tempranillo One of my favorite, tongue-in-cheek offerings is the "Highroller" a 3-liter magnum bottle (or 24 glasses) of Marwood Prosecco for a clean hundred. It's celebration, El Ay Si style.



This is a neighborhood joint through and through, from the amicable service to the wallet-friendly prices. It's good for a quick nosh or a long, lingering meal, an early dinner with kids or a weekend brunch. When our friendly waitress brings the check, she warmly gives us a $10 off coupon which illustrates our review perfectly: two enthusiastic thumbs up :)




Deal Alert - 20% off wine on Sundays-Tuesdays