An American Masters Paris

Bouchon Beverly Hills
www.bouchonbistro.com

The French must tire of their tropes (see berets, baguettes). A trip to Paris reveals their cuisine has evolved beyond the bistro, with molecular gastronomy and multiculturalism shaking the house that Escoffier built. Perhaps it's nostalgia for summers and studies in Paris, but I still cling to the classics of French cuisine. I've got a bad case of Francophilia (she writes, sporting a marinière stripe romper).

While diversity abounds in L.A.'s dining scene, I yearn for more French-run bistros, like in my former stomping ground, NYC. We've got glimmers of it, with Cafe Stella and Maison Giraud, but on this Bastille Day, I'm craving Gallic goodness. Ironically, the Frenchiest fare in town comes from an American legend: Thomas Keller.

Like Julia Child, his Bouchon outpost in Beverly Hills has Mastered the Art of French Cooking  Sure, the interior feels more Paris, Las Vegas, than the City of Lights, but the menu--a who's who of bistro classics--is quintessentially French. Stunning seafood towers, steak frites, pâté de campagne and tarte au citron will whisk you across the Atlantic.

With exquisite food and impeccable service (GM Stephen Cook made it his mission to find us shade during a sunny, al fresco brunch), Bouchon is a lovely place to linger. Or, if you're in the mood for an afternoon nibble or a pain au chocolat, head downstairs to Bar Bouchon and Bouchon Bakery. Good things come in threes on Canon Ave.

Pain d'epi

Bouchon's bread is worth the trip alone. Here, they serve a wheat-stalked shaped pain d'epi, the crustier cousin to a baguette. Though in a fancy setting, the bread is set directly on the table familiarly,  encouraging you to tear off hunks for butter slathering. Make like a Français, and "saucer": mop up the last morsels on your plate with bits of bread. 

 Pâté de campagne

This thick slab of country-style pâté smacks of Paris. With traditional accompaniments--cornichons, Dijon, watercress--savor this porky pleasure. 

Laitue

J'adore the simplicity of a French salad. Bibb lettuce, fresh tarragon, parsley, chive and an uncomplicated dressing (Dijon, canola oil & red wine vinegar) create a palate cleanser perfect for our decadent meal.

Boudin noir

Lyon's legendary blood sausage, boudin noir, comes with silken, whipped potatoes and apples, bruléed to bring out their caramelized goodness. This wintry dish evokes après-ski in the Alps. 

Croque Madame

As comforting as grilled cheese with a wallop of French finery, this grilled brioche, ham, and cheese is topped with a hens egg and creamy Mornay sauce.  Breakfast for dinner? The croque is offered day-to-night, though this may be my new hangover cure. 

Quiche du jour

A masterful version of the 70's classic. This thick, deep-dish spinach and Gruyère quiche is miraculously dense and fluffy at the same time, thanks to the transcendent custard filling.

Chicken and Waffles

A sophisticated spin on Southern comfort. Instead of fried, the chicken is roasted with herbs and lemon and the waffles are bacon & chive. 'Tis the "gravy", a sauce Chausseur made from veal stock, bacon, and mushrooms, that drenches this dish in gourmet.

Tarte au citron

Grab a slice of this luscious lemon tart, which features a buttery, pine-nut crust and crunchy, bruléed top.

Bouchons

These eponymous chocolate minis (bouchon=cork) are a cross between a brownie and dense cake. Dunked in decadent, chocolate sauce alongside vanilla ice cream, they embody Keller's signature blend of the culinary and comfort. For all the bakers in the house, check out the recipe here

Bar Bouchon

www.bouchonbistro.com/bh-barbouchon

The casual cousin to the upstairs restaurant, Bar Bouchon offers a more intimate setting. Choose from the convivial, circular bar or the verdant terrace. With chalkboard menus, wicker chairs, and zinc tables spilling out onto the patio, the ambiance is très Parisien. 

Hobnob with the wealthy without dropping mad cash at Happy Hour, which features $4 beers and $5 glasses of wine, This summer, grab a seat outside to watch al fresco movies and concerts at Canon Gardens from the patio. 

The happy hour menu offers inexpensive, fancy-schmancy snacks like $5 deviled eggs and truffled popcorn. 

Foie de Volaille

 If I wasn't in public, I'd dip a spoon straight into this velvety, chicken liver mousse. With the toast soldiers, arranged Jenga-style, I can eat like a lady.  

Bouchon Bakery
www.bouchonbakery.com

I've contemplated moving to Beverly Hills...that's how good Bouchon Bakery is. Evoking a French boulangerie and patisserie, this jewel box of a shop showcases an exquisite array of baked goodness. Though open all day & night for your pastry pleasure, early birds will be sure to catch their choice of confections. 

On the left, don't miss the kouign-amann (aka Brittany butter cake) an orgasmic mix of caramelized sugar and buttery dough. Center, the classic croissant is equally flaky and fluffy. Move over Nabisco. The Better Nutter, a peanut butter sandwich cookie, elevates the childhood fave to epicurean heights. 

A Whole Lotta' Piggy In The Emerald City

There's something about Elizabeth Ray.

My sister noticed it first, observing how her brand-new daughter was, well, particularly porcine. Terms of endearment often take their cue from the animal kingdom; "Monkey" and "Bunny" are affectionate nicknames my friends dub their significant others. With babies, these pet names increase exponentially. Their newborn adorableness elicits even serious folk to coo "Lamb Chop" and "Chicken" in high-pitched sillyness.

In my niece's case, the piglet analogy was inevitable. Elizabeth's wee wardrobe is predominantly pink.  Swaddled tight, she resembles a piggy in a blanket or a pork burrito. When she nurses noisily, she's a suckling pig. With her newborn cold, her snores sound like little oinks. To use a, er, literary reference, dainty Elizabeth takes after Olivia, the pretty pig of children's book fame, who I discovered while honing my Auntie chops with my other lovely nieces, Isla & Syla.

In honor of this little piggy--and her aunt's penchant for pork--here are my porcine picks in her hometown, Seattle.

Jambon @ Bar Ferd'nand
www.ferdinandthebar.com
Capitol Hill

Alone, this buttery jambon is luscious. Blanketed on fresh-baked, Corson Building sourdough (slathered Spanish-style with tomato) and drizzled with olive oil, it's downright decadent. This is as sexy as ham gets--glistening and unfurled on this open-faced awesomeness. Paired with a chilled albariño or a tart cider, this is the happiest of hours at this gem of a bar.

Salumi sampler @ Bar Cotto
www.ethanstowellrestaurants.com/barcotto/
Capitol Hill

Ethan Stowell's latest addition to his epicurean empire is Bar Cotto, a salumeria featuring local and international cured meats. Make like a taste-tester and order a 3- or 5-sampler: ribbons of silky mortadella--Italy's refined cousin of our pedestrian lunchmeat, bologna, culatello--the tender, creamy,  "king of salami", speck--a smoked prosciutto, succulent house-made porchetta, and soppressata picante for a spice kick.

Opt for the traditional Parma accompaniment, torta fritta: fried bread pillows. Still hungry for more pig? Bar Cotto offers a rare, pizza topping: n'duja, a spreadable salami from SF's salumi sorcerers, Boccalone.  Imagine the heat of Mexican chorizo and the texture of French rillettes...and voila, n'duja!

Cured pork loin @ Agrodolce

www.agrodolcerestaurant.net

Fremont

The lighter side of pork is showcased at Maria Hines' Sicilian ristorante. Thinly-sliced lobes of house-cured pork loin, lonzino, are topped with crunchy, raw fennel, snipped chives, and chili oil made from sweet Aleppo peppers. Just in time for the warm weather, this delicate, lean, refreshing dish proves that pork need not be heavy.

Pâté albigeois @ Le Pichet

www.lepichetseattle.com

Belltown

At this oh-so-Parisian charmer, the country-style pâté is a marriage of two types of pig: ground pork and bacon. Served with classic accoutrements, cornichons and grainy mustard, each bite of this rustic, hefty pâté whisks you across the Atlantic. Thankfully, this traditional French pâté is served in an American-sized portion.

Porchetta @ Salumi

www.salumicuredmeats.com

Pioneer Square

At Armandino Batali's palace of pork, arrive early to snag their much-lauded, so-good-it-sells-out porchetta sandwich.This behemoth is stuffed with toasty, fragrant, fennel-spiced pork shoulder, meatballs, onions & peppers, and a garlic-caper spread. Juicy is an understatement--prepare to get messy with each dripping bite.  Don't be intimidated by the lines outside.

A bevy of cured meats are available for purchase, either whole or sliced onto delectable sandwiches. I'm partial to the finochiona (fennel) and piquant mole salami. Win over your out-of-town friends--Salumi can be shipped throughout the U.S. of A. 

A Good Morning Guarantee

Take 5 Urban Market Ballard
www.take5urbanmaket.com

Ce n'est pas une McMuffin.

While Take 5's Executive Chef, Bryan, had a high school gig grilling at a nearby McDonald's, his hand-crafted, breakfast sandwich is similar only in form and packaging to the fast food classic.  At Take 5,  slathered butter fills each nook and cranny of a toasted English muffin.  Topped with scrambled egg, melted cheese, and ribbons of honey-roasted ham, it is hearty enough to fuel a day at work, yet sufficiently naughty for a hangover cure. Worth the trip from across the Sound and picnic-worthy for a beach brunch.

Considering that Take 5 has a team of chefs, it's not surprising that their other edible offerings are equally good, especially the unbelievably tasty sandwiches and dinners-to-go.  Wash it all down with artisanal sodas and microbrews.   If you're in a rush, call ahead to avoid a wait--delicious takes time.  Next time you're en route to work, why not take 5 breakfast sammies? Your co-workers will thank you (and me).

Good Gallic In A Petite Package

Buvette West Village Sept. '12
http://www.ilovebuvette.com/
eat: Terrine de Campagne, Carottes Rapées, Poulpes, Tarte Tatin
sip: Arneis

buvette 
noun (f)
1. a refreshment stall or counter
2. a snack bar at a theater, train station, beach, etc.

In French, and English for that matter, the diminutive "ette" connotes feminine (coquette) or little (cigarette), so it is implicit that buvettes are small.  Buvette, Jody Williams' Gallic gem, is indeed petite, but that's all it has in common with it's casual joints across the Atlantic.  Chef Williams' version--which she calls a gastrothèque-- is a pleasure chest of French delights, from fresh-baked croissants and housemade charcuterie, to classic coq-au-vin and cassoulet.   It is spot-on-Parisian without being too precious, yet with the amiable waitstaff, you avoid the oft French tradition of snooty service.

Tucked away on a picturesque, tree-lined, West Village street, Buvette feels at home amidst the gorgeous boutiques and fashionistas who frequent the neighborhood.   Inside the beautiful spot, tin-coffered ceilings, a zinc-top bar, an idyllic garden, and exposed brick walls make for an inviting and aesthetically-pleasing setting.   Waiters sport classic, striped aprons with a touch of personal style, like bow-ties.

Making most of the minimal space, the primary decor element is the food itself.  Jars of cornichons & olives, bottles of wine, a jambon slicer, baked goods, baskets of fruit, and an old-school citrus press adorn the café, creating a homey, culinary collage.  Accompanied by my foodie friend, Shari, who I met while studying in Paris, we are equally smitten with Buvette's likeness to our favorite French haunts.

The pop-up cocktail menu: whimsy that works. 

Arneis

  

Our waiter suggests Arneis, a Piedmontese white.  This light and crisp wine with hints of pear is a lovely daytime quaff.  One wall of Buvette features a chalkboard wine map to help geographically guide your sipping selection.

Terrine De Campagne

Don't be fooled by the diminutive size.  Each morsel of this country-style terrine is packed with porky pleasure. Wrapped in bacon, the smoky, intense pâté is served with a briny trifecta of cornichons, olives, and, my fave, caperberries.  It is served with a delectable, house-baked Pain de Campagne 

Carottes Rapées

Carrots are elevated to star status in this simple salad.  A mélange of grated carrots, pistachios, lemon, and vinegar is surprisingly delightful. It's just the thing for a hot, end-of-summer day.

Poulpes

 Ordering octopus is risky for it is so often incorrectly cooked (a.k.a. rubbery).  Here, the cephalopod is perfectly prepared and deliciously tossed with capers, shallots, olives, and refreshingly crunchy celery.   

Tarte Tatin

Throughout our meal, the tarte tatin teased me from its perch in my line of sight.  Sweet & gooey caramelized apples are crammed into a buttery crust and topped with tangy crème fraîche.  Stick a fork (or two, which our waiter so attentively did) in it - I've found taste nirvana. 

When we are presented with our bill, it is inscribed with the colloquial French translation: la douloureuse.  While its primary definition is "painful", here the word jokingly refers to the distress of having to dish out dollars.  I can't help but think that after such a lovely meal at Buvette, it should be called "happiness" (le bonheur) instead.

East Meets West

Son Of A Gun West Hollywood, CA
www.sonofagunrestaurant.com
eat: Smoked Mahi Dip, Brandade, Puntarelle, Local Squid, Hiramasa, Octopus Confit Salad, Mussels, Escolar, Steak & Oysters, Peach & Raspberry Pie, Frozen Lime Yogurt
sip: Domaine De La Renaudie Brut, Lacryma Christi Vigna del Vulcano

Dreams of clam strips are dancing in my head.  Tonight, I head to my Connecticut, childhood home, where I will load up on fried fish, butter-sautéed scallops, and lobster rolls .  Living in L.A., land of many flavors, I have my pick of international eats, yet I lament the lack of seafood shacks of my youth.  Sure, there's the PCH standbys, Neptune's Net and Reel Inn, and Santa Monica's BP Oysterette, but head inland and the choices are slim.  That is until Son Of A Gun came to town.

At Son Of A Gun, pescatarian prowess is brought to you by the masters of meat, Animal's Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo.  Their whimsical menu of maritime delights teems with fresh-caught goodness. Imagine the simplicity of an East Coast joint with West Coast flavors (Mexican habaneros and Asian yuzu), farmers' market finds (purple artichokes and black garlic), and the gastronomic gusto that have made Shook and Dotolo famous.

Nautical knick-knacks cover the sky-blue walls, captain chairs line the bar, and black & white fisherman pics decorate the bathrooms.   Checks arrive on anchovy tins and cocktails come in mason jars.  The hip, plaid-shirted waitstaff is knowledgeable, laid-back, and so friendly you want them to join you.  Each time I've dined here--at the communal table or not--conversation with neighboring diners ensues whether offering fries to taste or recommending favorite dishes.  We forget we are on bustling 3rd Street in L.A.--inside, we are in a cozy, seaside haunt along the Atlantic.  Even in L.A., where summer never seems to end, this place smacks of summer.

Bubbly

When eating fish, I prefer a chilled white wine or a glass of bubbly, like the toasty Domaine de la Renaudie Brut.  Also on deck are microbrews, classic cocktails, a refreshing shandy, even alcoholic tiki-cones!

Smoked Mahi Fish Dip

I'm half-Jewish, but 100% obsessed with smoked fish.  Here, a tasty dip of smoked mahi mahi, mayo, and lemon comes with a garden-fresh garnish of celery ribbons, onions, and paper-thin radishes.  What better way to start off a fishy feast?  

Brandade

Best of the bunch (if there can be just one).   On its own, brandade--salt cod potato purée--is great, but with an oozy, poached egg on top, it is transcendent.  With grainy mustard and a generous handful of arugula, this is a one-dish wonder.  The accompanying fried bread is scandalously good.

Puntarelle

Puntarelle, a bitter, dandelion-like green, is mixed with earthy Fava beans, baby purple artichokes, chaparral--a tangy, local sheep/goat cheese, and lemon.  Seasonal bounty at its best. 

Hiramasa

As colorful as fruit cocktail, Hiramasa (aka yellowtail) is tossed with serrano chiles, peaches, and yuzu, that delightful citrus that marries tart grapefruit and sweet orange. 

Squid

The plate is so pretty with purple flowers that I don't want to disturb it.   Local squid is both braised and fried, with Texas caviar (aka black-eyed peas), black garlic, and a brilliant invention they dub "corn butter".

Octopus Confit Salad

 Love the unique preparation of the octopus, which is braised, sliced thin, then grilled to charred perfection.  It is deliciously tossed in a vinaigrette with pickled mirepoix, chickpeas, radicchio and parsley.  

Mussels

Visually, the mussels look naked without their shells, but their lack of coverage allows the delectable Pernod, cream, tarragon, and fennel broth to penetrate these bivalves.  Like skinny-dipping, some things are better nude.  Soak up the anise-y broth with fried bread or a la carte frites.

Escolar

One of my favorite, yet hard to find, fishes, escolar is as succulent as salmon, yet firm & white like swordfish.  Here, it is roasted crisp on one side and served with luscious, truffled pomme purée, sautéed mushrooms, and chicken jus.    A hearty meat & potatoes dish for pescatarians.  Warning: escolar is known as the "eat and run fish" (I'll let you figure that out), but thankfully I'm not one who gets affected. 

Hanger Steak

Not surprisingly, their version of  "surf and turf" is scandalously rich.  Succulent chunks of Niman Ranch hanger steak cozy up next to crispy, fried oysters.  Bathed in a buttery Bérnaise and topped with fresh tarragon, it's "surf and turf" one could only expect from chefs nicknamed "Two Dudes".

Frozen Lime Yogurt

This deconstructed key lime pie is a tasty twist on a classic.  Tart lime fro-yo + graham cookie crumbles + a toasted smear of meringue = yum. 

Peach, Raspberry, Blueberry Pie

An homage to summer fruit, this is pie perfection.  The warm & gooey fruit is cooled by tangy, buttermilk ice cream. The caramelized crust is reminiscent of a sugary, crème brûlée top.  For me, the best pies are those that can be eaten for breakfast - this one definitely fits the bill. 

The magnificent, and incredibly popular, fried chicken sammy is not pictured because, er, my hands were covered in coleslaw and Sirracha aioli.   You can check out my previous post on their lobster roll here

When Son Of A Gun first opened in March '11, reservations were as hard to score as court-side, Lakers tix.   The hostesses would amicably invite you to try the first-come-first-serve communal table, yet even that was inpenetrable.  Hindered by the hype, I avoided the restaurant for 5 months, until my hankering for seafood got the best of me.  One year and many meals later, Son Of A Gun is still busy, but easier to visit.  Nevertheless, I suggest going mid-week or off-hours to ensure you get your fish on.