Community Kitchen

Canelé Atwater Village
www.canele-la.com

Each visit to Canelé ends with a namesake pâtisserie: a gift of caramelized, eggy goodness.  Little in size but plump with meaning, the canelé is a thank-you treat for coming, for you, the diner, are an integral part of the restaurant. This isn't a one-sided relationship, where chef gives and diner takes and never the twain shall meet.  Canelé is more than a mere restaurant--it is a community. 


Helmed by enigmatic chef/co-owner Corina Weibel, Canelé is a cozy, culinary club where a love of food is all you need to become a member.  Here, the communal table is the best seat in the house, where solo diners are never lonely and conversation flows as easily as wine is poured.  One visit, I met the owners of nearby Club Tee Yee and was regaled with tales of their legendary, dive bar.  The open kitchen lets diners--especially those at the 3-seat stove-side bar--watch their meal unfold.   It also allows for spontaneous sharing, like when Corina offered me a slice of peanut-butter cake--that had been gifted by a baker friend--for she knew I was a fellow sweets-connoisseuse. 


While everyone (wisely) raves about Canelé's brunch, the entire, French-influenced menu is magnifique.  Since the menu doesn't change often, each dish has been practiced to perfection.  The food is just how I like it: rustic, seasonal, uncomplicated, full-bodied, and equally friendly to carnivores and vegetarians.   

Burrata & Peas
Spring is in the air with this verdant salad of peas, pea tendrils, asparagus, and mint.  Alongside ever-sumptuous Burrata, you get your good and your plenty.

Bistro Steak
You can judge a restaurant by its steak.  Here, the delectable meat is slathered with a luscious, wine-based   Bordelaise sauce.  Accompanied by creamed spinach and pommes anna (a.k.a. amazing potato cake), even I, the perpetual sharer, would recommend ordering this just for yourself. 

Veal Chop
Size does matter with this magnificently meaty chop.  Unbelievably juicy and glistening with anchovy salsa verde, it will change the way you think about veal.  Served with buttery, roast cauliflower & potatoes and sautéed watercress   When Corina sees me gnawing at the bone, she admits the animalistic act is more complimentary than any verbal praise.   

Blood Orange Granita
This refreshing granita is topped with tangy sour cream and a buttery, homemade biscuit that's reminiscent of blue, Royal Dansk cookie tins.   An adult version of a cremesicle. 

Fried Chicken Sandwich
Simply delicious, this sammy just has 3 ingredients: a Crisp & tender fried chicken breast and a slice of pickled green tomato on a spongy, white bun.  Paired with a perfectly dressed Canelé salad, it's unfussy and unforgettable.

Ricotta Coffee Cake 

A genius spin on Italian affogato.   Espresso is poured over ricotta pound cake, instead of ice cream, so that each bite is drenched in caffeine.  With a healthy dollop of crème fraîche, it's a wonderful way to start, or end, your brunch. 




A unique place merits more than the standard restaurant review of titillating photos and prose.  For what makes Canelé hum is the food, and then some...as witnessed by these three tales of yum.   

Friends Cook @ Canelé

Me & Lesley flanking Corina,
our fearless leader 

On random Tuesdays, Corina opens her kitchen to friends, rookie or rock-star cooks, and dreamers who want to live out their chef fantasies.  This is how my twin sis, Lesley, and I were able to cook for a full house of friends and strangers.  Playing chefs-for-a-day, we created a 3-course menu, bought ingredients at the Hollywood Farmers' Market, then prepped, cooked, and plated our meal--with the incredible support of the kitchen and waitstaff. 

On the line

Friends enjoying our meal @
the communal table

We had ZERO experience -- exhibited by my amateur lemon-zesting accident that gave me my first kitchen scar -- yet were welcomed with open arms by Corina and her cooks, who were patient, eager to teach us, and a heck of a lot of fun.   By generously sharing her kitchen, Corina gave Lesley and I a rare glimpse into the inner-workings of cheffing and a night to never forget.  Conversely, we brought her 60 new customers.  

Dinner @ Coleman Farms

Coleman Farm

Canelé's menu brims with seasonal fare from local farms.  I witnessed this firsthand when Lesley & I shopped at the Hollywood Farmer's Market with Matt, Canelé's Sunday forager, who bought crates upon crates of fresh-picked produce. To honor this influential relationship between farmers and chefs, Corina hosted a supper in May at Coleman Farms, one of her most-valuable vendors.  

Corina & the Colemans (Romeo, Delia, and Bill)
next to the grill

Our communal table

Pigs

Situated on picturesque rolling hills in Carpinteria, Coleman Farms is a small, family-run business with a large variety of produce, ranging from everyday radishes to exotic shiso.  As Romeo jokingly explained during the tour, his father, Bill --an avid horticulturist--is the "R&D Department" while he heads up "Marketing".  Before dinner, Romeo showed us around the idyllic 6-acre farm serenaded by bleats, quacks and oinks

Grilled Leg of Pork & Escarole

Antipasti: celery root salad, olives,
 tomatoes, white beans and
artichoke hearts

Goat chops

We dined under a canopy of trees at a communal table. Family-style plates of slow-roasted pork and goat, golden polenta, ruby red tomatoes, deep green cavolo nero, and parsley-flecked celery root were passed around.  I felt like I was living in a food-magazine photo shoot, with each perfect platter as gorgeous as it was delicious. As Romeo aptly stated, Corina and fellow chefs are Coleman Farms P.R. Dept, for they showcase their produce beautifully. 

Paella Party 

How do chefs celebrate their birthdays?  In Corina's case, a co-hosted paella fiesta for 100+ family and friends.  It was a spectacular affair split between two houses; chez Corina, she reigned over the crackling fire, churning out five of her signature, enormous paellas.  At Kristin's casa, platters of grilled yellowtail, green beans, and summer's finest fruit, tomatoes, were passed among guests.  

Paella!

Grilled yellowtail & cherry tomatoes

With views of shimmering, Silver Lake reservoir, plenty of chilled rosé, and Euro-centric nibbles (Marconas, Castelvetranos, and Sopressatas), Corina magically whisked us away to the Mediterranean.  Unlike many clique-y L.A. fêtes, this was a convivial affair where amigos old and new mingled al fresco, sharing in the simple delight of good eating.  If Canelé had a back patio, it would feel like this.     

Diner Avec Mon Père

I have my father to thank for many things--my smarts, my indefatigable work ethic, the simple pleasure of napping in the sun--yet there are two which are particularly poignant this Father's Day.

1. My enormous appetite, which is more akin to that of a sumo wrestler than a ballet dancer.  Thankfully, I'm blessed with my mother's speedy metabolism, so can chow down without dire, physical consequences.

2. My amour for all things French.  Thanks to my father's Québécois heritage, I was seduced by the romantic language at an early age.  Dad encouraged me to pursue my passion--for he had always struggled with learning French--and years followed with foreign exchanges, studying in Paris, and trips to Francophone countries. Now, I'm a full-fledged Francophile, as one may surmise from my blog's Frenchy name.

Last January, I accompanied Dad to Paris for a work trip, which wonderfully coincided with his birthday.  Since I'm the obsessive eater in the family, he let me curate our dining itinerary. I was left with the challenge of finding a spot to suit both of our needs; none of that nouvelle cuisine--with teeny portions, exotic foams, and exorbitant prices--would do. We needed a bistro with hearty fare to fill our ravenous stomachs yet not empty our wallets.  


While Bistrot Paul Bert had received abundant praise from bloggers and guides alike, it was the enthusiastic endorsement by Richard, a childhood friend's father who lives in Paris, that sealed the deal. A personal recommendation trumps all, especially when given by a man who used to make "Chocolate Decadence" cakes as a side business.   Located in the 11th arrondissement, Bistrot Paul Bert is packed with locals and tourists alike.  The vibe is friendly and convivial, partly thanks to tables so close together that you can't help but converse with fellow diners.  The 3-course prix fixe dinner, scrawled on an oh-so-French chalkboard, is a mere 34 euros.  How could we resist?

Terrine de Campagne Maison
Why does terrine always taste better in Paris? Made in house, this country terrine is remarkably rich thanks to generous nuggets of pork fat. The vinegary, pickled cauliflower and carrots are a lovely, acidic compliment.

Feuilleté de Sot l’y Laisse
When I queried our waiter to define "sot l'y laisse", he explained it was the part of chicken that "only a fool would leave".  Us Anglophones refer to it as the "oyster"--the tender morsel of dark meat on the back of a bird.  Stuffed with sautéed mushrooms and cream sauce in a buttery, flaky puff pastry, it is a gussied up version of Chicken Pot Pie.  I'd be a fool to not have ordered it...

Entrecôte de Boeuf
There's a reason why food blogs and guidebooks rave about Paul Bert's steak frites.  The rib-eye is charred crisp on the outside, rare inside, with an outer belt of juicy fat cinching the steak. The mouthwatering, fresh-cut frites are magnificent.  Note to first-timers: the French like their steak rarer than usYanks, so rare=saignant, medium rare=á point, medium=bien cuit.  

Carré d'Agneau
Not the dainty lamb chops I'm accustomed to, these thick cut, honking chops are well-suited for winter appetites.   They look so delicious that the woman at the next table changes her order to match mine.  The rare meat is rosy pink, enrobed in succulent fat, and served with delectable roast turnips, parsnips, and potatoes in thyme. 

Tarte Tatin

This French classic is essentially an upside-down apple-pie kicked up a notch thanks to the browned-in-butter apples. Blanketed in a salty caramel sauce and paired with cool, whipped cream, it is the best I've ever had in Paris and beyond.

Paris Brest
This frou frou, donut-esque dessert is made with flaky, choux pastry, filled with luscious hazelnut cream, and dusted with powdered sugar.  Though big enough for a party of 4, Dad and I polished it off, whooping with glee after each bite. 

I lost my father last September, so sadly this turned out to be our last trip together.  During this time of grieving, I'm heartened by memories of our travels together.  We shared shark fin soup in Kyoto, schnitzel in Zurich, and digestive biscuits in Oxford.  We'll always have Paris, Dad.  

Bistrot Paul Bert

18, rue Paul Bert

11e Paris 75011

01.43.72.24.01

New Year, New Traditions

Alex & Ika Cooperstown, NY 1 January 2011
www.alexandika.com
eat: White Bean Soup, Clams & Chorizo, Hanger Steak, Rack of Lamb, Fried Fingerlings, Chocolate Chocolate Port Thing, BST, Sweet Potato Fries
sip: Albariño and Sangiovese (dinner) and Bloody Marys/Mimosas (brunch)



I've always lived in big cities that brim with more dining options than my belly can withstand. Even if I crammed in five meals a day, I wouldn't even put a dent in my extensive "Where I Want To Eat" lists, especially since new spots open daily and old restaurants are revealed through word of mouth. Consequently, it's rare that I return to a place often, even though I'd love to work my way through a menu, revisit favorite dishes, and taste a chef's wizardry in multiple forms. However, last weekend, on a jaunt to Cooperstown over New Year's weekend, I unexpectedly got my wish. My date, and fellow gourmand, Erik, had planned dinner at Alex & Ika's, a restaurant touted throughout the Finger Lakes Region. After a stellar meal of delicious, unpretentious dishes, we awoke the next morning searching for brunch. Since it was off-season, many places were closed, so we wavered between trying a questionable cafe or returning to Alex & Ika's. Luckily, we chose the latter and through two back-to-back meals, we got to truly experience this local gem's charm.




Thanks to its small-town location, Alex & Ika's has a laid-back, comfortable vibe. Inside, the restaurant feels like home; more a living room, than a dining room, the space features an old-fashioned wood stove, a wall of mismatched mirrors, photos, tchotchkes, and Christmas lights behind the bar. Familiar, classic rock tunes hum in the background. The menu offers a range of choices, whether you're in the mood for a simple burger or Star Anise Duck. After whetting our whistle at the quirky, bowling alley lane bar--a dirty martini for me and Lagavulin neat for Eric--we sit down for dinner.





The soup du jour is so jam-packed with ingredients that we are worried it might fall prey to the "too much of a good thing" cliche that can ruin a dish. However, the White Bean, Roast Garlic, Mushrooms, Bacon AND Pesto all harmonize in a tasty soup. It is reminiscent of chowder, both in it's creaminess and chunky quality. Plus, the mushrooms are as tender as clams or scallops.



Baby Clams & Spanish Chorizo That winning--and wholly un-kosher--pairing of seafood and pork is high on my favorite food couplings. Though teeny in size, these briny clams and cubes of salty pork pack a big wallop of flavor. Be sure to ask for extra bread to sop up the addictive butter, chardonnay, thyme and rosemary broth.




Hanger Steak Garlic Braised Crimini Mushrooms The steak arrives picture-perfect, medium-rare with mushrooms moist from red wine. The tarragon mustard cream is an original, tangy accompaniment; how refreshing to see tarragon used in a non-chicken setting. The Fried Fingerling Potatoes are the ne plus ultra of potatoes. I hate to admit that I agree with the overly-perky Rachel Ray, who has touted them as some of the best frites she's ever had. They are boiled, smashed, then fried, maintaining their potato shape while keeping the crispyness of a good fry. The dipping sauce, Chipotle Aioli, is equally good with the steak.




A gorgeous Char Grilled Rack of Lamb appears with the ribs crossed coquettishly atop a medley of delicious sides. Tomatoes, sweet from slow-roasting, are a welcome reminder of the bounty of summer. In addition, there are succulent artichoke hearts and creamy saffron porcini risotto. If that's not enough, a drizzle of white truffle oil completes the decadent dish.




Chocolate Chocolate Port Thing Is it a cake? Is it a sponge? The thing in question is an intensely chocolate cake; each nook and cranny has been impregnated with port, producing a cake so moist it would leave a wet spot in it’s wake. A pool of bourbon crème anglaise is a creamy bath for the ebony cake.





The next morning our dinner waitress welcomes us back. Since only a dozen hours had passed between our evening departure and noon arrival, it almost felt like we were old friends of the waitstaff and could have slept over on one of the banquettes. Sadly, they don’t do brunch at Alex & Ika’s, so I opt for the next best thing, a sandwich with brunch’s Very Important Meat - bacon. The BST--apple wood smoked bacon, sautéed spinach, roast tomato, and honey mustard on ciabatta - is quite possibly the best BLT I’ve ever had. Why? First - there is an insane amount of bacon ensuring each bite is porkilicious. Next, those sugary, roast tomatoes from last night's lamb are back again. Instead of the usual mayo --which I loathe -- a honey mustard adds the requisite moisture BLT’s require, but with an added tangy sweetness . Lastly, while a slice of white toast would disintegrate with all these ingredients, a hefty, doughy ciabatta bread holds it all in.




My stellar hangar steak makes a return appearance in Erik’s steak sandwich. Served with spinach, shallots, and walnut basil pesto on fresh ciabatta bread, it’s a meaty marvel. The accompanying sweet potato fries are also superlative - that’s two for two on tasty tubers. Again, the skins are crispy and caramelized while the inside is fluffy soft.
While it is technically lunch, one of brunches central ingredients, cocktails, are thankfully available. Erik’s mimosa has a mere hint of OJ rather than the usual half juice/half bubbly ratio and my Bloody Mary hit’s the spot, especially with a briny treat of a caperberry garnish.




While I'm not normally one to make New Year's Resolutions, the rewarding repeat performance at Alex & Ika's has definitely inspired me to break my dining mold. After all, eating out isn't just about trying the next new thing or checking off lists, but about building community, supporting local restaurants, and reproducing the delight of a familiar, home-cooked meal.

Big Love To Steak

BLT Steak West Hollywood, CA 20 April 10
www.bltsteak.com
eat: Steak Sliders, Truffled Mac & Cheese, Popovers, Hanger Steak, Filet Mignon, Frites, Creamed Spinach, Jalepeno Mashed Potatoes
sip: Bourbon Sidecar, Dirty Grey Goose Martinis


Expectations have a profound effect on our experiences. When anticipations are high, the barometer of excellence is heightened as well. For instance, when a movie receives glowing reviews, I presume it is going to be a magnificent tour-de-force. After looking at an online photo of a potential suitor, I assume he'll be equally dashing in person. However, when these prospects fall short - the film is a flop, the date is a dud - the sting of disappointment is stronger than having had no hope at all. Conversely, when a situation has little promise, yet then exceeds my expectations, the outcome is surprising delight.

"Expect the worst. Hope for the best" This was the mantra that ran through my head the other night when I chose BLT Steak after my friends put me to the challenge of finding a "non-Mexican, close-to-home, non-frat boy, good food Happy Hour". To be frank, BLT Steak doesn't fit into my usual dining mold. It is located on the touristy Sunset Strip and it is part of a large, national restaurant conglomerate, BLT Restaurants, which in spite of it's high esteem, I have avoided due to my penchant for local, smaller establishments. However, I was intrigued by their 5 for $5 Happy Hour: a choice of 5 libations (red & white wine, beer, bubbly, cocktail) plus 5 yummy small plates each for a fiver.


As we enter the restaurant, the modern, sleek design feels corporate and cold, yet after a warm welcome by the hostess and bartender, we begin to feel more comfortable. The decor lends itself to a more civilized happy hour - one where you can eat and drink fabulously without breaking the bank. The seasonal cocktail is a Bourbon Sidecar, a twist on the original with Bourbon replacing Cognac as the main liquor. We nosh on Steak Sliders, aka mini Philly Cheesesteaks. They are a messy, yet tasty mound of thick chunks of steak, caramelized onions, and melted Gruyere. Sadly, the Fried Oysters with Pickled Cabbage are a disaster - dare I say that the oysters tasted dirty - but our palates are quickly saved by the divine Truffle Mac & Cheese with Bacon, a stellar, oozy version topped with a golden-brown, shredded Gruyere crust. Even the bar snacks, smoked almonds, paprika dusted-popcorn, and plump olives, are top-notch.


Turns out that happy hour is a mere taste of what BLT Steak has to offer. When I return two weeks later to watch a Lakers playoff game at the bar, my interest in BLT Steak blossoms into a full-blown crush. The romance begins when Andrew, our charming, attentive bartender, brings out an array of amuse-bouche goodies: a glass jar of chicken liver pâté, two grapefruit-size popovers, fresh butter, and sea salt (turns out this duo is a signature to all the BLT Steak restaurants). The intense, rust-hued pâté is wonderfully warm, iron-rich, and meaty which I prefer to other whipped versions. The popovers deserve to have their own post - heck, it's their photo, not the more apt picture of a steak, that I crowned atop this blog. They are a feat of baked wizardry; inflated orbs of airy, soft dough encased in a buttery crust that is reminiscent of Pillsbury Crescent Rolls (in a good way). Alone, the popovers are delectable. Slathered with butter and sprinkled with flakes of sea salt, they are simply naughty. Obviously, I'm not alone in my popover passion; a miniature recipe card is served with them to entice diners to recreate them at home.


In keeping true to traditional steakhouses, the steaks are served a la carte, letting the diner choose their sauces and sides. There is such love for the cow that on the back of the menu, a diagram depicts cuts of meat to the corresponding parts of the cow (i.e. round = backside) An educated eater is a happier eater, so I take a menu home to study my bovine anatomy. I opt for a Hanger Steak (a cut which hangs from the diaphragm) with horseradish sauce. It arrives in a venerable Staub cast iron pan adorned simply with roasted shallots. The steak is picture perfect: blackened on the outside and bloody red inside. This caramelized char is due to the super high temperature (1700 degrees!) at which the steak is broiled. It tastes even better than it looks; normally, I bring leftovers home from a steakhouse, but I devour every last bit of one of the best steaks I've ever had. Russel has the Filet Mignon, which is gorgeously teneder and plump.



In an effort to counteract the meatiness of the meal, we opt for two green sides. The first, Creamed Spinach is full of fresh spinach. I love how this version focuses on the spinach rather than the cream. Rather than have the greens drowning in a giant cream bath, it's as if the spinach has soaked up the cream and created a moist masterpiece. Next, Jalepeño Mashed Potatoes are a beautiful, yet unusual mint green (think Green Eggs and Ham). They are wonderfully whipped and buttery and the heat from the jalepeños adds a nice kick.



Andrew brings us Fries with Parmesan, Truffle Salt, and Lime Cilantro Aioli. One might think this could be a bad case of ingredient overkill, but somehow all the flavors harmonize deliciously. On their own, the double-fried fries would be stellar, but the extra accoutrements are a unique touch.


Next, Andrew brings us a surprise Molten Chocolate Cheesecake. Although we are stuffed, it is a sweet gesture that adds to the welcoming friendliness that has infused our meal. Essentially, the dessert is a gussied up sundae; the chocolate ice-cream like cake is drizzled with dark, melted chocolate and a dollop of vanilla ice cream rests on top. It's an appropriate end to our "haute comfort" meal.


Turns out BLT Steak IS my kind of restaurant. It can be what you want it to be: a celebratory dinner, an intimate bar meal, high-end bites for game viewing, or a refined happy hour. I have learned my lesson. Don't judge a book by it's cover. Don't stereotype. Don't assume. It's funny, looking through my old magazines, I realized that BLT Steak was listed as one of L.A. Magazine's 10 Best New Restaurants in 2009, but I must have ignored their listing due to my snooty aversion to anything non-local. Eat that piece of humble pie...you might like what you taste.

Deal Alert: Besides the great 5 for $5 Happy Hour, there is a nightly 3-course $50 Blackboard Menu which veers from the traditional steak menu and features seasonal fare.