An American Masters Paris

Bouchon Beverly Hills
www.bouchonbistro.com

The French must tire of their tropes (see berets, baguettes). A trip to Paris reveals their cuisine has evolved beyond the bistro, with molecular gastronomy and multiculturalism shaking the house that Escoffier built. Perhaps it's nostalgia for summers and studies in Paris, but I still cling to the classics of French cuisine. I've got a bad case of Francophilia (she writes, sporting a marinière stripe romper).

While diversity abounds in L.A.'s dining scene, I yearn for more French-run bistros, like in my former stomping ground, NYC. We've got glimmers of it, with Cafe Stella and Maison Giraud, but on this Bastille Day, I'm craving Gallic goodness. Ironically, the Frenchiest fare in town comes from an American legend: Thomas Keller.

Like Julia Child, his Bouchon outpost in Beverly Hills has Mastered the Art of French Cooking  Sure, the interior feels more Paris, Las Vegas, than the City of Lights, but the menu--a who's who of bistro classics--is quintessentially French. Stunning seafood towers, steak frites, pâté de campagne and tarte au citron will whisk you across the Atlantic.

With exquisite food and impeccable service (GM Stephen Cook made it his mission to find us shade during a sunny, al fresco brunch), Bouchon is a lovely place to linger. Or, if you're in the mood for an afternoon nibble or a pain au chocolat, head downstairs to Bar Bouchon and Bouchon Bakery. Good things come in threes on Canon Ave.

Pain d'epi

Bouchon's bread is worth the trip alone. Here, they serve a wheat-stalked shaped pain d'epi, the crustier cousin to a baguette. Though in a fancy setting, the bread is set directly on the table familiarly,  encouraging you to tear off hunks for butter slathering. Make like a Français, and "saucer": mop up the last morsels on your plate with bits of bread. 

 Pâté de campagne

This thick slab of country-style pâté smacks of Paris. With traditional accompaniments--cornichons, Dijon, watercress--savor this porky pleasure. 

Laitue

J'adore the simplicity of a French salad. Bibb lettuce, fresh tarragon, parsley, chive and an uncomplicated dressing (Dijon, canola oil & red wine vinegar) create a palate cleanser perfect for our decadent meal.

Boudin noir

Lyon's legendary blood sausage, boudin noir, comes with silken, whipped potatoes and apples, bruléed to bring out their caramelized goodness. This wintry dish evokes après-ski in the Alps. 

Croque Madame

As comforting as grilled cheese with a wallop of French finery, this grilled brioche, ham, and cheese is topped with a hens egg and creamy Mornay sauce.  Breakfast for dinner? The croque is offered day-to-night, though this may be my new hangover cure. 

Quiche du jour

A masterful version of the 70's classic. This thick, deep-dish spinach and Gruyère quiche is miraculously dense and fluffy at the same time, thanks to the transcendent custard filling.

Chicken and Waffles

A sophisticated spin on Southern comfort. Instead of fried, the chicken is roasted with herbs and lemon and the waffles are bacon & chive. 'Tis the "gravy", a sauce Chausseur made from veal stock, bacon, and mushrooms, that drenches this dish in gourmet.

Tarte au citron

Grab a slice of this luscious lemon tart, which features a buttery, pine-nut crust and crunchy, bruléed top.

Bouchons

These eponymous chocolate minis (bouchon=cork) are a cross between a brownie and dense cake. Dunked in decadent, chocolate sauce alongside vanilla ice cream, they embody Keller's signature blend of the culinary and comfort. For all the bakers in the house, check out the recipe here

Bar Bouchon

www.bouchonbistro.com/bh-barbouchon

The casual cousin to the upstairs restaurant, Bar Bouchon offers a more intimate setting. Choose from the convivial, circular bar or the verdant terrace. With chalkboard menus, wicker chairs, and zinc tables spilling out onto the patio, the ambiance is très Parisien. 

Hobnob with the wealthy without dropping mad cash at Happy Hour, which features $4 beers and $5 glasses of wine, This summer, grab a seat outside to watch al fresco movies and concerts at Canon Gardens from the patio. 

The happy hour menu offers inexpensive, fancy-schmancy snacks like $5 deviled eggs and truffled popcorn. 

Foie de Volaille

 If I wasn't in public, I'd dip a spoon straight into this velvety, chicken liver mousse. With the toast soldiers, arranged Jenga-style, I can eat like a lady.  

Bouchon Bakery
www.bouchonbakery.com

I've contemplated moving to Beverly Hills...that's how good Bouchon Bakery is. Evoking a French boulangerie and patisserie, this jewel box of a shop showcases an exquisite array of baked goodness. Though open all day & night for your pastry pleasure, early birds will be sure to catch their choice of confections. 

On the left, don't miss the kouign-amann (aka Brittany butter cake) an orgasmic mix of caramelized sugar and buttery dough. Center, the classic croissant is equally flaky and fluffy. Move over Nabisco. The Better Nutter, a peanut butter sandwich cookie, elevates the childhood fave to epicurean heights. 

A Night In & Out

Night In @ Elysian  Elysian Valley May '13
www.elysianla.com

e·ly·sian - relating to heaven or paradise. see blissful, delightful

In a city named after angels and bent on bliss, elysian fits right into L.A.'s vernacular. There's Elysian Park, an idyllic spot for picnics & ambles and Elysian Heights, the hilly, Eastside 'hood. Though shuttered, Elysian Fields, the Topanga nudist colony, lives on in L.A. lore and memories from my first year in town.

In Elysian Valley, a delightful spot is sandwiched between the 2, the 5, and the L.A. River. Tucked between ramshackle, Frogtown facades and behind a wooden gate, lies a tranquil garden and a stunning space. This is Elysian.

An intimate place for gatherings, weddings, and lectures, Elysian welcomes guests at its occasional, bi-monthly restaurant, Night In. Conceived by David Thorne, an accomplished artist/cook, Night In serves "good food in a lovely place."  Using a palette of farmers market fare, David creates unpretentious deliciousness. Each plate an edible oeuvre, he is redefining the concept of eating out.

Night In resembles a dinner party...one that is hosted by your artsy, culinary friend. An open kitchen, shelves stacked with books, and a worn, L-shaped couch in the waiting area further accentuate the house-like vibe.  Perhaps it feels like a home because David and his wife used to live at Elysian.This is not a pop-up; it's a pop-in.

While those who eat at Elysian aren't necessarily friends, we run in the same crowd. We like our produce seasonal, our meat pasture-raised, and our wine from Silverlake Wine. We go out to be nourished not to be seen; we are disciples of delicious. Since we speak the same language, the communal tables at Elysian don't feel forced; they are instead incubators for conversations.

As a mailing list subscriber to Elysian L.A. , I receive invites (aka enticing menus) in my inbox for upcoming dinners. On May 6, I was finally able to attend a dinner, so I rsvp'd on the website. A day before our reservation, David sent a reminder note, ending with, "we look forward to seeing you."  Let the dinner party begin...

Demetria Viognier

Night In is BYOB. For a springtime supper with my best ladies, Barndi & Alyce, I bring a 2010 Viognier, which blooms with grassy, apricot notes. This full-bodied white is from my beloved wine club, Demetria Estates, a Santa Ynez vineyard specializing in sustainable, biodynamic wines. 

Duck Rillettes

Pâté for the liver averse.  Rillettes--duck cooked and stored in its own fat--is lusciously rich. Roast cherries elevate the stone fruit from sweet to savory. Pickled onions, pistachios, and mache make for fabulous fixings. 

Shaved Beet and Fennel Salad

Taste the rainbow of spring with thinly shaved beets & fennel, little gem lettuces, tarragon, preserved lemon, walnuts, and feta. It's a salad of earthly delights.

 Beef Cheek

Succulent, braised beef cheek wears a dollop of horseradish cream well. With an array of diminutive, yet delicious veggies--English peas, fingerlings, treviso, carrots and turnips--this dish is omnivorous bliss.  Thank you, David, for reminding me that oregano is much more than a pizza topping; when fresh, the herb is aromatherapeutic.

Butterfish

With seared-crisp skin, this moist butterfish won't make you ask, "Where's the Beef?" It's served on an Oriental bed of nutty, black rice, snap peas, green garlic, mustard greens, asparagus, radish, and pickled ginger. 

Ginger Cake

 Living in the fruit basket of Southern California, dessert and fruit are natural bedfellows. Here, a sweet & tart kumquat compote accompanies a dense, ginger cake. Whipped lebneh, a yogurt-based, Middle-Eastern cheese, adds a tart finish.

Upon exiting a dinner party, thanks are exchanged; both hosts and guests expressing gratitude for a night well spent and well fed. Likewise, at Night In, the menu ends with a "thank you", reminding us that Elysian is happy we stopped by. It continues, "please tell your friends about us."  And so I have....

The next Night In is June 7th. Rsvp here

Mess With This Tex-Mex

Bar Amá  Downtown  March '13
www.bar-ama.com
eat: Queso Fundido, Fideo w/Octopus & Kielbasa, Peas & Grapes, Blood Sausage & Pork Cheeks, Mom's Green Enchiladas, Asparagus & Beets, Chicharrón, Frito Pie, Fennel & Snap Peas, Puffy Tacos, Sopapillas
sip: Nacho Vidal, Zapatista, Tahona Limon, Amá Old-Fashioned

Tex-Mex and I go way back.

For my first college gig, I hostessed at a rowdy, Tex-Mex restaurant: Caliente Cab Company. Famous for their frozen margaritas--evidenced by the monster cocktail beckoning from the facade--this was where locals went to get their tequila on, downing syrupy sweet margaritas or slamming shots wielded by bandolier-strapped waitresses. The edible offerings were cheesy, cheap, and filling--food was merely fuel for more boozing.

While Caliente was far from culinary, my experience there was meaningful. Within her trashy walls, I scored a fake ID, ventured beyond my NYU student body (while exploring the bodies of my male co-workers) and discovered the close-knit, motley crew that makes a restaurant hum. Nevertheless, after each shift, I would return to my dorm reeking of fajita smoke and fried chips, wishing I wanted to eat where I worked.

Enter Bar Amá, Chef Josef Centeno's answer to my freshman year dreams. Embracing his Texan heritage, Bar Amá is an homage to the women (ama) who raised Centeno; it is his "interpretation of their cooking". Integrating his fondness for the farmers market, his mastery of meat, and his love of spice, Centeno slings classics (enchiladas, queso fundido) and originals while taking Angelenos on a tour of Mexican quesos and chilies.

As an ardent member of the Josef fan club--falling hard at Lazy Ox, then his first joint, Baco Mercat--I had high expectations for Bar Amá. After my first visit, I was surprised by my Caliente-like experience,  where the booze outshone the edible. Chalking it up to new-restaurant jitters, I returned again, and again, to find food fitting of Centeno's skills.


Befitting a downtown restaurant, the decor is more industrial (metal chairs, wood-beam walls) than Latino. Instead of tacky chili pepper lights and sombreros, the Mexican accents are authentic: traditional tiles and a towering wall of tequila behind the bar. Come thirsty, for the entire agave family (from mezcal to sotol) is on hand. Deft bartenders shake up more than margaritas; fresh juices, chilies, homemade shrubs and bitters infuse fun and potent quaffs that pair well with the flavorful food.

Nacho Vidal

Bartenders about town are breaking Campari free from its Negroni norm. Here, the blood-red bitter is blended with tequila blanco, chile-lime shrub, and honey. This sassy combo is reigning queen of my cocktail favorites.

Zapatista and Tahona Limon

 On the left, the Zapatista mixes serrano, cilatnro, citrus and honey with Cielo Rojo Bacanora, a lesser-known agave-based spirit that is a subtle version of its smoky cousin, mezcal. The Tahona Limon, mezcal, lime, and sugar, is a gimlet, Mexican-style. 

 Amá Old-Fashioned

If you prefer your tequila unfettered, opt for this Mexican twist on a classic. Tequila añejo, house bitters and orange peel will warm you up for the eating ahead. 

Queso Fundido

Scoop up this oozy triple threat of cheddar, Jack, and panela (a Mexican, paneer-like cheese). With avocado, sour cream, and salsa hidden below and chorizo on top, this gut-bomb begs to be shared.  

Fideo with Octopus and Kielbasa

With a wink to Centeno's Spanish roots, he serves traditional noodles, fideo, flavored with shrimp broth and chilies. Mingled with charred octopus, smoky kielbasa, and crunchy pepitas, this comforting combo is the table's top pick.

English Peas & Black Grapes

Verdant peas and tendrils, sweet grapes, spicy árbol chili, and tangy crema illustrate Centeno's skill at creating delicious out of quirky medleys.   

Blood Sausage & Pork Cheek

Centeno's brand of bodacious meats is showcased with this blood sausage and pork cheek hash.  Dished over wood-fired corn and quinoa, then topped with a fried egg, this brunch-like combo is how I want to start and end every day.

Mom's Green Enchiladas

Mom knows what's best, especially with these stellar enchiladas. Homemade, flour tortillas stuffed with chicken are doused in delectable tomatillo sauce, crema, and a coat of blistered Monterey Jack,  A tasty take on this homey classic.

Grilled Asparagus and Beets

Illustrating Centeno's penchant for seasonal produce, this dish welcomes the arrival of springtime asparagus as we bid adieu to winter beets. The veg are blanketed in luscious crema, slivered radish, spicy peppers, and hierba santa, a Central American leafy herb. As a student in Guatemala, I discovered hierba santa, which contains the same oil, safrole, used to make Ecstasy.  While the herb sadly doesn't trigger the same euphoria as the dance drug, this plate will bring you bliss.

Crispy Chicharrón & Poblano Cream

 A far cry from the salty snack with the same name. Here, chicharrón is pork belly not pork rinds, fried  crisp while tender inside. Dunked in pobalno cream and squirted with lime & bus driver (house-made hot sauce), they are equally savory as they are naughty.

Nana's Frito Pie

Be still my beating heart and clogged arteries. The corn chip classic, Frito Pie, is given a Centeno makeover with luscious lengua (tongue) chile con carne, house-made crema, mulato pepper. Yum!

Fennel & Snap Peas

Temper the hearty with this light and lovely melange of braised fennel, crunchy peas, queso fresco, and popped amaranth, an Aztec grain.  

Chorizo Puffy Taco

 The San Antonio signature, the puffy taco, has landed in L.A. Named for its deep-fried, tortilla shell, we opt for the house-made chorizo. While others have raved, ours arrived soggy and sparse on the fillings. Will try again next time...

Sopapillas & Mexican Chocolate

Although stuffed, I hadn't had sopapillas since my Caliente days. Deep-fried, tortilla pillows are dusted with powdered sugar & honey. Served with Mexican hot chocolate-spiced with chili, cinnamon, and Oaxacan sea salt, this is a sweet finish to our feast.

Before Bar Amá, my Tex-Mex memories were a tequila-tainted haze from my Caliente stint. Now, I'm able to get my agave and eat deliciously, too.

Puttin' The "Bar" In Barbecue

Bludso's West Hollywood 
http://www.barandque.com/

I ain't no gambler, but I'd bet on this julep.

In honor of this Saturday's Kentucky Derby, hoof it over to Bludso's, Weho's new-ish bastion of BBQ, for the best julep outside Louisville. Here's why their version gets the gold cup. As co-owner Jason Bernstein (a self-taught cocktail connoisseur) explains, Evan Williams bourbon is steeped in mint for 24 hours, strained, then chilled on tap. Like the Foreigner tune, this bourbon is cold as ice, so that when poured over pebble ice, the booze doesn't get watered down.

Mixed with sugar, bitters, and a splash of soda, the result is delicious, and dangerously, potent. This is a macho julep--well, as manly as you can get with a mint sprig and silver mug--that pairs perfectly with the meaty menu.  My faves are the juicy hot links, tender brisket, porky collard greens and crunchy pickles.

With the temps topping 90 today, why not get the party started early?

Sweet Dreams Are Made Of Cream

It's hot in here.

Bare legs, dry skin, chapped lips, blistering sunshine. The Santa Ana's are back. No amount of water can soothe throats parched from these warm winds. This calls for something stronger, something smoother...ice cream.

Since I was a tiny tot, ice cream has been my go-to remedy. The Steinman family freezer was always stocked with Breyers Mint Chip to soothe scraped knees. Good report cards merited trips to Friendly's for their ginormous Reese's Peanut Butter Cup sundae. As an adult, I've sought solace in a pint--no bowl needed-after bad days and worse dates. So, it should come as no surprise that when I'm tormented with thirst (the Santa Ana's have a tendency to cause crazy), I seek my frozen fix. Here are my preferred pints, on both coasts, in the Midwest, and online.

Graeter's Black Raspberry Chip

Graeter's
www.graeters.com

For me, Cincinnati is synonymous with ice cream. Born to a Midwest mom, family trips to our Ohio clan meant visits to Graeter's, a local chain that resembles Baskin-Robbins in style, but not substance.
Since 1870, Graeter's has been churning its "irresistible ice cream" using the French pot method. This small-batch technique creates super-dense and rich ice cream--a Graeter's pint weighs close to a pound instead of the usual 8 oz.--by reducing the air that normally occurs when whipping. My favorite, the gorgeously purple Black Raspberry Chip, bursts with berries hand-selected from Oregon. Chip is inaccurate; these are chocolate chunks that miraculously melt in your mouth, rather than stick to your teeth. You can't go wrong with any of the chip flavors, thanks to Graeter's patented process: liquid chocolate is poured into the pot, the chocolate freezes into a big shell on top and then is broken by hand into chewy chunks.

With adulthood, my trips to Ohio decreased, and Graeter's was only accessible via an online splurge of $75 for 6 pints. Now Graeter's is available at grocery chains nationwide, thankfully bringing ice cream back to its affordable roots.

Dr. Bob's Strawberry, Sour Cream and Brown Sugar

Dr. Bob's Ice Cream
www.drbobsicecream.com

The title is real--Professor Robert Small got his doctorate in Business Administration--but he should have a P.H.D. in delicious. Manufactured at the L.A. Country Fairgrounds, Dr. Bob's handcrafted ice cream uses quality ingredients--seasonal fruit, Tahitian vanilla, and Scharffen Berger chocolate--to make stellar versions of classic flavors. His award-winning, high butterfat ice cream is ridiculously creamy and downright fluffy, as if it was whipped fresh that morning. I was transformed from a loather to a lover of strawberry ice cream after tasting Dr. Bob's Strawberry, Brown Sugar, and Sour Cream. The berries' sweetness blended with tart sour cream and the caramelized yum of brown sugar make for the ultimate scoop for summer. Chocolate aficionados will swoon for the Scharffen Berger flavors. I adore the "Works", a decadent, dark chocolate gem with bittersweet, semi-sweet, and cocoa nibs mixed in.

Eastsiders can buy Dr. Bob's at Cookbook while Westsiders will find pints at Food. Check the site for other retail locations, or for a fresh scoop, visit Frank's Famous in Glendale. Away from L.A.? Dr Bob's can be shipped throughout the U. S. of A.

Steve's Bklyn Blackout

Steve's Ice Cream
www.stevesicecream.com

Before Coldstone Creamery, there was Steve’s Ice Cream. In 1973, this Massachusetts ice cream parlor pioneered the mix-ins, concocting made-to-order flavors like Heath Bar crunch for enthusiastic customers. Sadly, Steve's folded after a corporate takeover led the company in a pre-packaged (a.k.a. low-quality) direction, but former scooper, David Stein, restored the biz in the epicenter of artisanal food: Brooklyn. Collaborating with their culinary neighbors, Steve's repertoire feature Blue Bottle Coffee (Cinnamon Coffee), Salvatore BKLYN Ricotta (Strawberry Ricotta) and even Pies 'N' Thighs donuts (Nola Coffee & Donuts). I'm a sucker for the Bklyn Blackout: milk chocolate ice cream, stout cake pieces from local baker Ovenly and dark chocolate pudding. In response to the rise of dietary restrictions, gluten-free, dairy-free and vegan options are available.

I discovered Steve's in my hometown, Westport, CT, at the Double L Farm Stand. Pints are widely available all over NYC (shout out to Stinky Bklyn!), at East Coast Whole Foods, and, like the others, online.


Hope you enjoy this handy manual for how to beat the heat. Next time you are sending a care package, celebrating a foodie friend's birthday (ahem), or looking for a unique, wedding present, why not give the gift of a six-pack?

No Need To Starve. It's The Year Of The Snake.

Last night I dreamed I devoured a snake. I had slow-roasted it, like a pig on a spit, split it down the middle and scooped out its steaming flesh with my fingers.  As I lay in bed contemplating the oddity of my slithering supper, it hit me: It's the Year Of The Snake.

Ancient Chinese lore states that a snake in the house ensures your family won't starve. To guarantee you won't go hungry for Chinese cooking, let's take a trip to the largest Chinese-American community in the U.S.

Just 20 miles from L.A., the San Gabriel Valley isn’t your cliché Chinatown: tourists, tchotchkes and a towering, dragon gate.  It is China-Country--200 square miles of authentic eats.  Like many SoCal spots, the SGV is a sea of nondescript strip malls, but you don’t come here to ogle architecture.  You visit to lunch like a native, dine on the cheap, and break free from your usual General Tso‘s.

JTYH Restaurant   Rosemead, CA

9425 Valley Blvd     626.442.8999  

On Rosemead’s Valley Boulevard, the “Broadway Of Chinese Eats”, JTYH Restaurant specializes in Shanxi knife-cut noodles.  Shaved from a log of dough. these spongy, glutenous noodles come cold or in hot broth with a variety of tasty toppings. 

Dan Dan Mian

We opt for the sesame sauce, which clings to the thick noodles like skin on a snake.  When tossed with scallions, egg, and cucumber, it makes for a cool and nutty dish. 

Pan-Fried Bao

 Like a Tootsie Pop for the porcine-inclined, these pork-filled balls are crunchy on the outside and pillowy soft inside.  What a difference a pan makes.  

Leek Pancake

Listed as Pan Fried Buns on the menu, these empanada-like beauties are stuffed with sautéed leeks. They're a welcome dose of green in our decadently, doughy lunch.  

Beef Roll

A cross between a bahn-mi and a burrito, this tasty, two-hander has thinly-sliced beef, cucumber, scallions, cilatnro, and sweet hoisin sauce.  FYI, Westsiders can find this at 101 Noodle Express in Fox Hills Mall.  

Black Rice Congee

 The friendly owner offers us this traditional, Chinese dessert: a black rice and red bean porridge that is pungent with just a hint of sweet.  

Tan Cang Newport Seafood  San Gabriel, Ca

www.newportseafood.com

Celebrating with friends? Head to the bustling Tan Cang Newport Seafood.  You'll find all the trimmings you'd expect from a Chinese-Vietnamese food palace: tanks of ginormous crabs & lobsters, lazy Susans and large parties gorging on endless amounts of food. When consuming Chinese, I have two rules: 1. Go with a group--to allow for an ample array of dishes 2. Go with a native--both to ensure authenticity and to assist with translating non-English menus. Thanks to my acquaintance, Harry, who organizes SGV outings with his Chinese friend, Herb, I played by my rules and won big.  Tucked in a private room lined with red, Asian lattice, we supped like kings, yet paid like paupers--a dozen dishes for $25 a pop.   

Hot and Sour Soup

Our feast begins with a traditional hot & sour soup. Like a Chinese tea ceremony--where boiling water prepares the pots for the tea--this viscous, pungent soup warms our bellies for the bountiful banquet.

Newport Special Lobster

The pièce de résistance of TCNS is a dazzling mess of roughly hacked lobster fried in garlic sauce.  Doused with green-onions, lobster innards and peppers, I prefer this sloppy goodness to a plain ol' lobster any day. 

Salt & Pepper Prawns

 With equal enormity and sauce to the lobster, these crispy prawns come baked, not fried. Forget the knife and fork - you'll want to lick your salty fingers after each bite.

Clams in Spicy Hot Sauce

Plump clams are bathed in Thai basil, jalapeno, garlic, and ginger. A medley of marvelous flavors in a soothing broth. 

House Special Noodle

 Perfectly-cooked squid, shrimp, chicken and bok choy blanket a bed of crispy noodles.  This clean and simple preparation balances out the spicy wallop of the other dishes. 

Beef Loc Lac

When you've had your fill of oceanic flavors, order the Beef Loc Lac--one of the most popular plates here.  A Vietnamese specialty, cubes of beef tenderloin lacquered in black pepper sauce are served a top charred peppers and onions.  

Slices of fresh oranges end the meal, providing both a sweet finish and a natural hand cleanser. If you fancy something more substantial, a branch of Phoenix Bakery is located just down the street.