An American Masters Paris

Bouchon Beverly Hills
www.bouchonbistro.com

The French must tire of their tropes (see berets, baguettes). A trip to Paris reveals their cuisine has evolved beyond the bistro, with molecular gastronomy and multiculturalism shaking the house that Escoffier built. Perhaps it's nostalgia for summers and studies in Paris, but I still cling to the classics of French cuisine. I've got a bad case of Francophilia (she writes, sporting a marinière stripe romper).

While diversity abounds in L.A.'s dining scene, I yearn for more French-run bistros, like in my former stomping ground, NYC. We've got glimmers of it, with Cafe Stella and Maison Giraud, but on this Bastille Day, I'm craving Gallic goodness. Ironically, the Frenchiest fare in town comes from an American legend: Thomas Keller.

Like Julia Child, his Bouchon outpost in Beverly Hills has Mastered the Art of French Cooking  Sure, the interior feels more Paris, Las Vegas, than the City of Lights, but the menu--a who's who of bistro classics--is quintessentially French. Stunning seafood towers, steak frites, pâté de campagne and tarte au citron will whisk you across the Atlantic.

With exquisite food and impeccable service (GM Stephen Cook made it his mission to find us shade during a sunny, al fresco brunch), Bouchon is a lovely place to linger. Or, if you're in the mood for an afternoon nibble or a pain au chocolat, head downstairs to Bar Bouchon and Bouchon Bakery. Good things come in threes on Canon Ave.

Pain d'epi

Bouchon's bread is worth the trip alone. Here, they serve a wheat-stalked shaped pain d'epi, the crustier cousin to a baguette. Though in a fancy setting, the bread is set directly on the table familiarly,  encouraging you to tear off hunks for butter slathering. Make like a Français, and "saucer": mop up the last morsels on your plate with bits of bread. 

 Pâté de campagne

This thick slab of country-style pâté smacks of Paris. With traditional accompaniments--cornichons, Dijon, watercress--savor this porky pleasure. 

Laitue

J'adore the simplicity of a French salad. Bibb lettuce, fresh tarragon, parsley, chive and an uncomplicated dressing (Dijon, canola oil & red wine vinegar) create a palate cleanser perfect for our decadent meal.

Boudin noir

Lyon's legendary blood sausage, boudin noir, comes with silken, whipped potatoes and apples, bruléed to bring out their caramelized goodness. This wintry dish evokes après-ski in the Alps. 

Croque Madame

As comforting as grilled cheese with a wallop of French finery, this grilled brioche, ham, and cheese is topped with a hens egg and creamy Mornay sauce.  Breakfast for dinner? The croque is offered day-to-night, though this may be my new hangover cure. 

Quiche du jour

A masterful version of the 70's classic. This thick, deep-dish spinach and Gruyère quiche is miraculously dense and fluffy at the same time, thanks to the transcendent custard filling.

Chicken and Waffles

A sophisticated spin on Southern comfort. Instead of fried, the chicken is roasted with herbs and lemon and the waffles are bacon & chive. 'Tis the "gravy", a sauce Chausseur made from veal stock, bacon, and mushrooms, that drenches this dish in gourmet.

Tarte au citron

Grab a slice of this luscious lemon tart, which features a buttery, pine-nut crust and crunchy, bruléed top.

Bouchons

These eponymous chocolate minis (bouchon=cork) are a cross between a brownie and dense cake. Dunked in decadent, chocolate sauce alongside vanilla ice cream, they embody Keller's signature blend of the culinary and comfort. For all the bakers in the house, check out the recipe here

Bar Bouchon

www.bouchonbistro.com/bh-barbouchon

The casual cousin to the upstairs restaurant, Bar Bouchon offers a more intimate setting. Choose from the convivial, circular bar or the verdant terrace. With chalkboard menus, wicker chairs, and zinc tables spilling out onto the patio, the ambiance is très Parisien. 

Hobnob with the wealthy without dropping mad cash at Happy Hour, which features $4 beers and $5 glasses of wine, This summer, grab a seat outside to watch al fresco movies and concerts at Canon Gardens from the patio. 

The happy hour menu offers inexpensive, fancy-schmancy snacks like $5 deviled eggs and truffled popcorn. 

Foie de Volaille

 If I wasn't in public, I'd dip a spoon straight into this velvety, chicken liver mousse. With the toast soldiers, arranged Jenga-style, I can eat like a lady.  

Bouchon Bakery
www.bouchonbakery.com

I've contemplated moving to Beverly Hills...that's how good Bouchon Bakery is. Evoking a French boulangerie and patisserie, this jewel box of a shop showcases an exquisite array of baked goodness. Though open all day & night for your pastry pleasure, early birds will be sure to catch their choice of confections. 

On the left, don't miss the kouign-amann (aka Brittany butter cake) an orgasmic mix of caramelized sugar and buttery dough. Center, the classic croissant is equally flaky and fluffy. Move over Nabisco. The Better Nutter, a peanut butter sandwich cookie, elevates the childhood fave to epicurean heights. 

A Night In & Out

Night In @ Elysian  Elysian Valley May '13
www.elysianla.com

e·ly·sian - relating to heaven or paradise. see blissful, delightful

In a city named after angels and bent on bliss, elysian fits right into L.A.'s vernacular. There's Elysian Park, an idyllic spot for picnics & ambles and Elysian Heights, the hilly, Eastside 'hood. Though shuttered, Elysian Fields, the Topanga nudist colony, lives on in L.A. lore and memories from my first year in town.

In Elysian Valley, a delightful spot is sandwiched between the 2, the 5, and the L.A. River. Tucked between ramshackle, Frogtown facades and behind a wooden gate, lies a tranquil garden and a stunning space. This is Elysian.

An intimate place for gatherings, weddings, and lectures, Elysian welcomes guests at its occasional, bi-monthly restaurant, Night In. Conceived by David Thorne, an accomplished artist/cook, Night In serves "good food in a lovely place."  Using a palette of farmers market fare, David creates unpretentious deliciousness. Each plate an edible oeuvre, he is redefining the concept of eating out.

Night In resembles a dinner party...one that is hosted by your artsy, culinary friend. An open kitchen, shelves stacked with books, and a worn, L-shaped couch in the waiting area further accentuate the house-like vibe.  Perhaps it feels like a home because David and his wife used to live at Elysian.This is not a pop-up; it's a pop-in.

While those who eat at Elysian aren't necessarily friends, we run in the same crowd. We like our produce seasonal, our meat pasture-raised, and our wine from Silverlake Wine. We go out to be nourished not to be seen; we are disciples of delicious. Since we speak the same language, the communal tables at Elysian don't feel forced; they are instead incubators for conversations.

As a mailing list subscriber to Elysian L.A. , I receive invites (aka enticing menus) in my inbox for upcoming dinners. On May 6, I was finally able to attend a dinner, so I rsvp'd on the website. A day before our reservation, David sent a reminder note, ending with, "we look forward to seeing you."  Let the dinner party begin...

Demetria Viognier

Night In is BYOB. For a springtime supper with my best ladies, Barndi & Alyce, I bring a 2010 Viognier, which blooms with grassy, apricot notes. This full-bodied white is from my beloved wine club, Demetria Estates, a Santa Ynez vineyard specializing in sustainable, biodynamic wines. 

Duck Rillettes

Pâté for the liver averse.  Rillettes--duck cooked and stored in its own fat--is lusciously rich. Roast cherries elevate the stone fruit from sweet to savory. Pickled onions, pistachios, and mache make for fabulous fixings. 

Shaved Beet and Fennel Salad

Taste the rainbow of spring with thinly shaved beets & fennel, little gem lettuces, tarragon, preserved lemon, walnuts, and feta. It's a salad of earthly delights.

 Beef Cheek

Succulent, braised beef cheek wears a dollop of horseradish cream well. With an array of diminutive, yet delicious veggies--English peas, fingerlings, treviso, carrots and turnips--this dish is omnivorous bliss.  Thank you, David, for reminding me that oregano is much more than a pizza topping; when fresh, the herb is aromatherapeutic.

Butterfish

With seared-crisp skin, this moist butterfish won't make you ask, "Where's the Beef?" It's served on an Oriental bed of nutty, black rice, snap peas, green garlic, mustard greens, asparagus, radish, and pickled ginger. 

Ginger Cake

 Living in the fruit basket of Southern California, dessert and fruit are natural bedfellows. Here, a sweet & tart kumquat compote accompanies a dense, ginger cake. Whipped lebneh, a yogurt-based, Middle-Eastern cheese, adds a tart finish.

Upon exiting a dinner party, thanks are exchanged; both hosts and guests expressing gratitude for a night well spent and well fed. Likewise, at Night In, the menu ends with a "thank you", reminding us that Elysian is happy we stopped by. It continues, "please tell your friends about us."  And so I have....

The next Night In is June 7th. Rsvp here

Mess With This Tex-Mex

Bar Amá  Downtown  March '13
www.bar-ama.com
eat: Queso Fundido, Fideo w/Octopus & Kielbasa, Peas & Grapes, Blood Sausage & Pork Cheeks, Mom's Green Enchiladas, Asparagus & Beets, Chicharrón, Frito Pie, Fennel & Snap Peas, Puffy Tacos, Sopapillas
sip: Nacho Vidal, Zapatista, Tahona Limon, Amá Old-Fashioned

Tex-Mex and I go way back.

For my first college gig, I hostessed at a rowdy, Tex-Mex restaurant: Caliente Cab Company. Famous for their frozen margaritas--evidenced by the monster cocktail beckoning from the facade--this was where locals went to get their tequila on, downing syrupy sweet margaritas or slamming shots wielded by bandolier-strapped waitresses. The edible offerings were cheesy, cheap, and filling--food was merely fuel for more boozing.

While Caliente was far from culinary, my experience there was meaningful. Within her trashy walls, I scored a fake ID, ventured beyond my NYU student body (while exploring the bodies of my male co-workers) and discovered the close-knit, motley crew that makes a restaurant hum. Nevertheless, after each shift, I would return to my dorm reeking of fajita smoke and fried chips, wishing I wanted to eat where I worked.

Enter Bar Amá, Chef Josef Centeno's answer to my freshman year dreams. Embracing his Texan heritage, Bar Amá is an homage to the women (ama) who raised Centeno; it is his "interpretation of their cooking". Integrating his fondness for the farmers market, his mastery of meat, and his love of spice, Centeno slings classics (enchiladas, queso fundido) and originals while taking Angelenos on a tour of Mexican quesos and chilies.

As an ardent member of the Josef fan club--falling hard at Lazy Ox, then his first joint, Baco Mercat--I had high expectations for Bar Amá. After my first visit, I was surprised by my Caliente-like experience,  where the booze outshone the edible. Chalking it up to new-restaurant jitters, I returned again, and again, to find food fitting of Centeno's skills.


Befitting a downtown restaurant, the decor is more industrial (metal chairs, wood-beam walls) than Latino. Instead of tacky chili pepper lights and sombreros, the Mexican accents are authentic: traditional tiles and a towering wall of tequila behind the bar. Come thirsty, for the entire agave family (from mezcal to sotol) is on hand. Deft bartenders shake up more than margaritas; fresh juices, chilies, homemade shrubs and bitters infuse fun and potent quaffs that pair well with the flavorful food.

Nacho Vidal

Bartenders about town are breaking Campari free from its Negroni norm. Here, the blood-red bitter is blended with tequila blanco, chile-lime shrub, and honey. This sassy combo is reigning queen of my cocktail favorites.

Zapatista and Tahona Limon

 On the left, the Zapatista mixes serrano, cilatnro, citrus and honey with Cielo Rojo Bacanora, a lesser-known agave-based spirit that is a subtle version of its smoky cousin, mezcal. The Tahona Limon, mezcal, lime, and sugar, is a gimlet, Mexican-style. 

 Amá Old-Fashioned

If you prefer your tequila unfettered, opt for this Mexican twist on a classic. Tequila añejo, house bitters and orange peel will warm you up for the eating ahead. 

Queso Fundido

Scoop up this oozy triple threat of cheddar, Jack, and panela (a Mexican, paneer-like cheese). With avocado, sour cream, and salsa hidden below and chorizo on top, this gut-bomb begs to be shared.  

Fideo with Octopus and Kielbasa

With a wink to Centeno's Spanish roots, he serves traditional noodles, fideo, flavored with shrimp broth and chilies. Mingled with charred octopus, smoky kielbasa, and crunchy pepitas, this comforting combo is the table's top pick.

English Peas & Black Grapes

Verdant peas and tendrils, sweet grapes, spicy árbol chili, and tangy crema illustrate Centeno's skill at creating delicious out of quirky medleys.   

Blood Sausage & Pork Cheek

Centeno's brand of bodacious meats is showcased with this blood sausage and pork cheek hash.  Dished over wood-fired corn and quinoa, then topped with a fried egg, this brunch-like combo is how I want to start and end every day.

Mom's Green Enchiladas

Mom knows what's best, especially with these stellar enchiladas. Homemade, flour tortillas stuffed with chicken are doused in delectable tomatillo sauce, crema, and a coat of blistered Monterey Jack,  A tasty take on this homey classic.

Grilled Asparagus and Beets

Illustrating Centeno's penchant for seasonal produce, this dish welcomes the arrival of springtime asparagus as we bid adieu to winter beets. The veg are blanketed in luscious crema, slivered radish, spicy peppers, and hierba santa, a Central American leafy herb. As a student in Guatemala, I discovered hierba santa, which contains the same oil, safrole, used to make Ecstasy.  While the herb sadly doesn't trigger the same euphoria as the dance drug, this plate will bring you bliss.

Crispy Chicharrón & Poblano Cream

 A far cry from the salty snack with the same name. Here, chicharrón is pork belly not pork rinds, fried  crisp while tender inside. Dunked in pobalno cream and squirted with lime & bus driver (house-made hot sauce), they are equally savory as they are naughty.

Nana's Frito Pie

Be still my beating heart and clogged arteries. The corn chip classic, Frito Pie, is given a Centeno makeover with luscious lengua (tongue) chile con carne, house-made crema, mulato pepper. Yum!

Fennel & Snap Peas

Temper the hearty with this light and lovely melange of braised fennel, crunchy peas, queso fresco, and popped amaranth, an Aztec grain.  

Chorizo Puffy Taco

 The San Antonio signature, the puffy taco, has landed in L.A. Named for its deep-fried, tortilla shell, we opt for the house-made chorizo. While others have raved, ours arrived soggy and sparse on the fillings. Will try again next time...

Sopapillas & Mexican Chocolate

Although stuffed, I hadn't had sopapillas since my Caliente days. Deep-fried, tortilla pillows are dusted with powdered sugar & honey. Served with Mexican hot chocolate-spiced with chili, cinnamon, and Oaxacan sea salt, this is a sweet finish to our feast.

Before Bar Amá, my Tex-Mex memories were a tequila-tainted haze from my Caliente stint. Now, I'm able to get my agave and eat deliciously, too.

A Whole Lotta' Piggy In The Emerald City

There's something about Elizabeth Ray.

My sister noticed it first, observing how her brand-new daughter was, well, particularly porcine. Terms of endearment often take their cue from the animal kingdom; "Monkey" and "Bunny" are affectionate nicknames my friends dub their significant others. With babies, these pet names increase exponentially. Their newborn adorableness elicits even serious folk to coo "Lamb Chop" and "Chicken" in high-pitched sillyness.

In my niece's case, the piglet analogy was inevitable. Elizabeth's wee wardrobe is predominantly pink.  Swaddled tight, she resembles a piggy in a blanket or a pork burrito. When she nurses noisily, she's a suckling pig. With her newborn cold, her snores sound like little oinks. To use a, er, literary reference, dainty Elizabeth takes after Olivia, the pretty pig of children's book fame, who I discovered while honing my Auntie chops with my other lovely nieces, Isla & Syla.

In honor of this little piggy--and her aunt's penchant for pork--here are my porcine picks in her hometown, Seattle.

Jambon @ Bar Ferd'nand
www.ferdinandthebar.com
Capitol Hill

Alone, this buttery jambon is luscious. Blanketed on fresh-baked, Corson Building sourdough (slathered Spanish-style with tomato) and drizzled with olive oil, it's downright decadent. This is as sexy as ham gets--glistening and unfurled on this open-faced awesomeness. Paired with a chilled albariño or a tart cider, this is the happiest of hours at this gem of a bar.

Salumi sampler @ Bar Cotto
www.ethanstowellrestaurants.com/barcotto/
Capitol Hill

Ethan Stowell's latest addition to his epicurean empire is Bar Cotto, a salumeria featuring local and international cured meats. Make like a taste-tester and order a 3- or 5-sampler: ribbons of silky mortadella--Italy's refined cousin of our pedestrian lunchmeat, bologna, culatello--the tender, creamy,  "king of salami", speck--a smoked prosciutto, succulent house-made porchetta, and soppressata picante for a spice kick.

Opt for the traditional Parma accompaniment, torta fritta: fried bread pillows. Still hungry for more pig? Bar Cotto offers a rare, pizza topping: n'duja, a spreadable salami from SF's salumi sorcerers, Boccalone.  Imagine the heat of Mexican chorizo and the texture of French rillettes...and voila, n'duja!

Cured pork loin @ Agrodolce

www.agrodolcerestaurant.net

Fremont

The lighter side of pork is showcased at Maria Hines' Sicilian ristorante. Thinly-sliced lobes of house-cured pork loin, lonzino, are topped with crunchy, raw fennel, snipped chives, and chili oil made from sweet Aleppo peppers. Just in time for the warm weather, this delicate, lean, refreshing dish proves that pork need not be heavy.

Pâté albigeois @ Le Pichet

www.lepichetseattle.com

Belltown

At this oh-so-Parisian charmer, the country-style pâté is a marriage of two types of pig: ground pork and bacon. Served with classic accoutrements, cornichons and grainy mustard, each bite of this rustic, hefty pâté whisks you across the Atlantic. Thankfully, this traditional French pâté is served in an American-sized portion.

Porchetta @ Salumi

www.salumicuredmeats.com

Pioneer Square

At Armandino Batali's palace of pork, arrive early to snag their much-lauded, so-good-it-sells-out porchetta sandwich.This behemoth is stuffed with toasty, fragrant, fennel-spiced pork shoulder, meatballs, onions & peppers, and a garlic-caper spread. Juicy is an understatement--prepare to get messy with each dripping bite.  Don't be intimidated by the lines outside.

A bevy of cured meats are available for purchase, either whole or sliced onto delectable sandwiches. I'm partial to the finochiona (fennel) and piquant mole salami. Win over your out-of-town friends--Salumi can be shipped throughout the U.S. of A. 

Silver Lake, Animal-style

Black Hogg Silverlake March '13
www.blackhogg.com
eat: Spicy Chicken Liver, Brussels Sprout Hash, Popcorn Bacon, Buttery Lamb Burger, Lamb Belly, Octopus and Scallop Chana Masala, Five Milks Bread Pudding

Drop it like it's hot.

Chef Eric Park cherishes chilies like Snoop digs weed. Moroccan harissa, Japanese togarashi and Mexican serranos pack the menu with piquant punch; Black H-O-Double G is the International House of Hotness.

Like its namesake--a black hogg is actually a year-old sheep--Black Hogg is celebrating its one-year anniversary. Even after liquor-license hiccups and a scathing L.A. Weekly review (which destroyed my trust in B-Rod), this carnivorous charmer is better than ever. Serving up lusty, robust fare--inspired by a stint at April Bloomfield's Spotted Pig--Chef Park's perks up dishes with pickled goodies and ethnic spices embracing L.A.'s multiculturalism. The GG-funk era has hit the Eastside.

Given the name and neon sheep beacon out front, its no surprise that Black Hogg is a mecca of meat. Park's skillz on the grill create succulent steaks, juicy burgers, and crispy pork. Come hungry, but leave the vegetarians at home.

Cirelli Montepulciano D'Abruzzo

While Black Hogg has an itty-bitty, affordable wine list, I'm a fan of their SLW-BYOB policy: free corkage for any bottle purchased at Silverlake Wine, the best, and friendliest, wine shop in town. Our  Montepulciano D'Abruzzo is an unfussy, soft red that pairs nicely with our meaty meal. 

Spicy Chicken Liver Pâté

I should have a P.H.D. in pâté considering I've consumed my body weight's worth. Chef Park's pâté gets an A+ in my book; it is rustic, earthy and chunky--a la Osteria Mozza--then he adds caramelized serranos for piquant pleasure. Big triangles of fried chicken skin anchor the pâté--crispy sails on luscious, liver boats. 

Popcorn Bacon

A contender for L.A.'s most artery-clogging bar snack, breaded and deep-fried bacon nuggets come with a creamy, maple dipping sauce. As an amuse-bouche, one piece of this piggy popcorn would be perfection, but I found the generous helping borderline overkill.

Lamb Belly 

 A crispy slab of roasted lamb belly blankets aromatic jasmine rice. With a wonderfully crunchy, spicy fennel harissa slaw and a cooling yogurt sauce, the whole is a savory sum of each tasty part. 

Brussels Sprout Hash

In spite of the sprouts ubiquity about town, this dish reminds me why they are so beloved. Twice-cooked Brussels--equally crispy and tender--are tossed with bacon vinaigrette and fingerling potatoes. The poached egg is a beauty: a glistening white orb beckoning to be punctured.

Buttery Lamb Burger

Butter is not just an adjective, but an actual ingredient. The added pat of fat makes for an oozing, juicy patty. Stacked with Onetik sheep's milk blue cheese and pickled habanero onions, this is a trip-worthy burger. The accompanying fries have all the yum of McD's spuds without the processed ick.

Scallop and Octopus Chana Masala

Crispy octopus and a succulent scallop gussy up chana, a traditional Indian chickpea dish. Our waiter's spice warning is spot-on; each fiery bite is a tantalizing blend of chili, garam masala, and garlic. 

Five Milks Bread Pudding

Why stop at très when you can have cinco leches? Buttermilk, heavy cream, condensed & evaporated milk  and whipped cream drench a brioche tower with deliciousness. Brown-butter apples and toasted pecans create a comforting combo. French toast for the evening.   

FYI, the no-reservation policy can lead to long waits on weekend nights. Fortunately, the hostess is refreshingly honest about wait times. Wander down to the Thirsty Crow, where dapper mixologists will help you pass the time liquourously.