Dunking Across America

Can I let you in on a Hollywood secret?

Daily donuts. While the Google elite get organic, whole-grain breakfast, us film folk keep it old school with the American classic. Each morning, the craft service table is decked with doughnuts, offering a sweet distraction to our 5 a.m.call. With coffee, the sugar & carb combo packs a potent, energy boost that revs you up for long days of shooting.

In my early days of costuming, I learned my favorite doughnut denomination: Vitamin O. Created by my co-worker, Jim, he used this nickname to trick himself into believing his glazed treat was good for him. What was once considered fattening suddenly became nutritious. Mind over fatter, right?

Tomorrow is National Doughnut Day (..and we are living in a material world...) Based on the Salvation Army's holiday honoring the women who served donuts to soldiers in WWI, the marketing wizards have dubbed the first Friday of June a Day For Dunking. Like mothers and valentines, I come from the camp that celebrating should not be a one-day deal. Nevertheless, I can't resist this doughy opportunity.

From my 3 most well-trodden cities, where to dunk your doughnuts:

Tres Leches

Doughnut Plant NYC
www.doughnutplant.com 

What began as a one-man, bike-delivery service has morphed into one of the Big Apple's best doughnut shops. Doughnut Plant handcrafts all natural deliciousness, excelling in filled and cake varieties, which they describe as "a texture somewhere near the intersection of a classic birthday cake and buttery pound cake". My favorite marriage of the two, the Tres Leches, was inaugurated on Cinco de Mayo in 2006. Like its namesake, this vanilla-glazed doughnut is filled with a dairy threesome of evaporated milk, condensed milk, and cream. As they sang in Schoolhouse Rock, three IS a magic number!

In addition to storefronts in Chelsea and the LES, find these dunkers at Joe cafes around town. Deal Alert: For National Doughnut Day, Doughnut Plant is giving a mini, rainbow sprinkle doughnut FREE with every purchase (while supplies last).

Randy's Donuts Los Angeles
www.randy-donuts.com

It's a bird, it's a plane, it's a donut! It's hard to miss L.A.'s most iconic display of novelty architecture, the famous Randy's Donuts. Open 24-7, this classic drive-thru is my LAX pit-stop for on-board snacks or welcome-home treats.

Wheat & Honey and Buttermilk Bar 

My usual is two-fold. In the foreground, the dense, buttermilk bar is shellacked with sugary goodness. Tucked in the back, the wholesome wheat & honey is a fresh-baked spin on my preferred, childhood cereal, Honey Bunches Of Oats.

Deal Alert: Randy's will be dishing out FREE DONUTS for National Donut Day. Morning only - while supplies last.  Call for exact times 310.645.4707

Cinnamon Sugar Minis 

Market Mini Donuts  Seattle
http://ballardfarmersmarket.wordpress.com/

There's a bit of State Fair fried-ness at the Ballard Farmers Market. Nestled among the rainbow chard and golden beets, Market Mini Donuts fries up made-to-order, bite-size beauties. Opt for a dusting of cinnamon & sugar if you fancy.  Best when consumed piping-hot, the steaming bag doubles as a makeshift hand-warmer on cold mornings. Check out the action below (audio by my nephew, Robert)

A Whole Lotta' Piggy In The Emerald City

There's something about Elizabeth Ray.

My sister noticed it first, observing how her brand-new daughter was, well, particularly porcine. Terms of endearment often take their cue from the animal kingdom; "Monkey" and "Bunny" are affectionate nicknames my friends dub their significant others. With babies, these pet names increase exponentially. Their newborn adorableness elicits even serious folk to coo "Lamb Chop" and "Chicken" in high-pitched sillyness.

In my niece's case, the piglet analogy was inevitable. Elizabeth's wee wardrobe is predominantly pink.  Swaddled tight, she resembles a piggy in a blanket or a pork burrito. When she nurses noisily, she's a suckling pig. With her newborn cold, her snores sound like little oinks. To use a, er, literary reference, dainty Elizabeth takes after Olivia, the pretty pig of children's book fame, who I discovered while honing my Auntie chops with my other lovely nieces, Isla & Syla.

In honor of this little piggy--and her aunt's penchant for pork--here are my porcine picks in her hometown, Seattle.

Jambon @ Bar Ferd'nand
www.ferdinandthebar.com
Capitol Hill

Alone, this buttery jambon is luscious. Blanketed on fresh-baked, Corson Building sourdough (slathered Spanish-style with tomato) and drizzled with olive oil, it's downright decadent. This is as sexy as ham gets--glistening and unfurled on this open-faced awesomeness. Paired with a chilled albariño or a tart cider, this is the happiest of hours at this gem of a bar.

Salumi sampler @ Bar Cotto
www.ethanstowellrestaurants.com/barcotto/
Capitol Hill

Ethan Stowell's latest addition to his epicurean empire is Bar Cotto, a salumeria featuring local and international cured meats. Make like a taste-tester and order a 3- or 5-sampler: ribbons of silky mortadella--Italy's refined cousin of our pedestrian lunchmeat, bologna, culatello--the tender, creamy,  "king of salami", speck--a smoked prosciutto, succulent house-made porchetta, and soppressata picante for a spice kick.

Opt for the traditional Parma accompaniment, torta fritta: fried bread pillows. Still hungry for more pig? Bar Cotto offers a rare, pizza topping: n'duja, a spreadable salami from SF's salumi sorcerers, Boccalone.  Imagine the heat of Mexican chorizo and the texture of French rillettes...and voila, n'duja!

Cured pork loin @ Agrodolce

www.agrodolcerestaurant.net

Fremont

The lighter side of pork is showcased at Maria Hines' Sicilian ristorante. Thinly-sliced lobes of house-cured pork loin, lonzino, are topped with crunchy, raw fennel, snipped chives, and chili oil made from sweet Aleppo peppers. Just in time for the warm weather, this delicate, lean, refreshing dish proves that pork need not be heavy.

Pâté albigeois @ Le Pichet

www.lepichetseattle.com

Belltown

At this oh-so-Parisian charmer, the country-style pâté is a marriage of two types of pig: ground pork and bacon. Served with classic accoutrements, cornichons and grainy mustard, each bite of this rustic, hefty pâté whisks you across the Atlantic. Thankfully, this traditional French pâté is served in an American-sized portion.

Porchetta @ Salumi

www.salumicuredmeats.com

Pioneer Square

At Armandino Batali's palace of pork, arrive early to snag their much-lauded, so-good-it-sells-out porchetta sandwich.This behemoth is stuffed with toasty, fragrant, fennel-spiced pork shoulder, meatballs, onions & peppers, and a garlic-caper spread. Juicy is an understatement--prepare to get messy with each dripping bite.  Don't be intimidated by the lines outside.

A bevy of cured meats are available for purchase, either whole or sliced onto delectable sandwiches. I'm partial to the finochiona (fennel) and piquant mole salami. Win over your out-of-town friends--Salumi can be shipped throughout the U.S. of A. 

Pub Grub For The Seafaring Set

Jolly Roger Taproom @ Maritime Pacific Brewing Ballard Jan. '13
www.maritimebrewery.com
eat: Smokers, Jalepeno Caesar, Green Curry Mussels, Oyster Po' Boy, Steak Frites, Corn Dogs.
sip: Flagship Red, Nightwatch, Cask-conditioned Ales

I like my sports with a side of savory.

The game is the means to the drinkable & edible end.  I pick bars based on their non-televised offerings--Belgian Ales, stellar nachos, spicy Bloody Marys, schnitzel.   With the Superbowl just upon us, I have memories of my last football outing, or more appropriately "routing", January's BCS Championship.  Lured by onion rings and curious about the new & bigger locale of Maritime Pacific Brewery, my sis, her hubby, their son, and I headed to their pub, the Jolly Roger Tap Room

If their former locale was a weathered, small dinghy, the current space is more akin to the clipper that graces their logo; the concrete floor features an antique, nautical chart, wooden booths and tables allow for ample seating, and Captain chairs at the bar offer choice, game-viewing.  While the beers are the main attraction, it is the culinary details that draw a diverse crowd.  A beer-based demi-glace seasons the steak, a variety of veggies pepper the menu, and homemade hot sauces adorn the tables. I especially liked the jalapeno, cilantro, lime combo, a mild & zesty sauce that goes great with the oceanic offerings.

Flagship Red Alt Ale

Maritime offers a rotating array of cask-conditioned ales: beer that is unfiltered and naturally carbonated (aka conditioned) outside of the keg.  What results is a smooth, less effervescent brew that is served almost room temp rather than ice cold--an attribute I appreciate in these cold climes. I opt for the easy-drinking Flagship Red, a tasty balance of malt and hops.

Nightwatch Ale

 Roasted hops give this dark amber ale its toasty flavor, making it one of my favorite Northwest beers. While the Nightwatch is thankfully sold in local markets, nothing beats the creamy head of a fresh-poured draft.  Like farm-to-table, this is brewery-to-belly.

Smokers

 Considered the best around town, these onion rings are deliciously smoked with apple wood and hops.   Thanks to a signature double breading & double fried process, you avoid the oft-occurring o-ring mishap--when a bite sucks the slippery onion out of its crunchy coating, leaving the breading limp in your hands and your mouth burnt by the disrobed allium.  Served with a roasted jalapeno tartar, these thick cut beauties are reason to return.  

Smoked Jalapeno Caesar 

Ordering a salad at a bar is akin to sushi at Safeco Field. Availability does not ensure edibility.  The stereotype is shattered by this South-Of-The Border Caesar.  Crispy romaine, cotija cheese, and ancho tortilla croutons are slathered with a kicky, smoked jalapeno vinaigrette. Both smoky and spicy, this hearty salad befits beer pairings.  

Green Curry Mussels and Clams

Plump bivalves are bathed in Thai green curry, giving our meal an exotic zing.  Smothered with peppers, fennel, and onions, it is a delicate and delectable dish.  

Po' Lil' Oysters

Consider the oyster. With the Puget Sound a few miles away, the Maritime's Po' Boy is as local as it gets.  Oysters, breaded and pan-fried golden brown, shredded cabbage, and homemade, roasted jalapeno tartar make for finger-licking good sandwich.  

Hanger Steak Frites

Our perfectly medium-rare steak is slathered with a mouthwatering green peppercorn, Nightwatch Ale demi-glace and melted Stilton. The hand-cut fries would be outstanding on their own, yet the melange of beefy gravy, cheese, and potato metamorphosizes them into a mouthwatering poutine, Quebec's wonderfully trashy, and now-trendy, dish.   

Mini Corn Dogs

A welcome break from the kids menu standards, grilled cheese or hamburger, these mini corn dogs make Robert happy. Luckily, his 3-year old appetite allows for sharing with the grownups.

In spite of its swashbuckling name, the Jolly Roger Taproom is the opposite of rowdy. It is a convivial  spot, where you can wash down beers, eat well, and converse during the game without garnering glares.  And let's not forget about those onion rings.....

A Good Morning Guarantee

Take 5 Urban Market Ballard
www.take5urbanmaket.com

Ce n'est pas une McMuffin.

While Take 5's Executive Chef, Bryan, had a high school gig grilling at a nearby McDonald's, his hand-crafted, breakfast sandwich is similar only in form and packaging to the fast food classic.  At Take 5,  slathered butter fills each nook and cranny of a toasted English muffin.  Topped with scrambled egg, melted cheese, and ribbons of honey-roasted ham, it is hearty enough to fuel a day at work, yet sufficiently naughty for a hangover cure. Worth the trip from across the Sound and picnic-worthy for a beach brunch.

Considering that Take 5 has a team of chefs, it's not surprising that their other edible offerings are equally good, especially the unbelievably tasty sandwiches and dinners-to-go.  Wash it all down with artisanal sodas and microbrews.   If you're in a rush, call ahead to avoid a wait--delicious takes time.  Next time you're en route to work, why not take 5 breakfast sammies? Your co-workers will thank you (and me).

It Was A Good Day

Monster Dog

3am. Ext. Belltown Street. 1st day of 2013

First bite of 2013....a hot dog from Monster Dog.  I discover that cream cheese is the signature of a "Seattle Dog"...can someone please tell me the connection between shmear and this city? Initially skeptical, I love how the spread tempers the salty dog, which is served in my favorite fashion: split down the middle and grilled so that char is the primary condiment.  Robin adds pickled jalapenos and Steve doctors a spicy weiner with sliced onions and Sriracha.   Both genius.  Admittedly, anything would taste divine pre-dawn and post-boozing, yet these particular sausages embody more than just meat.  They are the sweet success after numerous failed attempts to find food. They are warmth as we  chow down in the heated cocoon of the Jetta.  They are togetherness as we pass them among old friends, sister, husband.  They are the beginning, a taste of what will come. 

11:30am Casa Joe & Les Buckwheat pancakes (from a mix gifted by Mom) and Skagit River Ranch breakfast sausages. Photo omission due to post-party groggy-ness.

2pm 
Russian tea cake--an annual treat made with love (and tons of butter) by Allison.

3pm

Lemony leftovers from roast chicken + chicken liver pâté = luxurious chicken salad fitting for a New Year's Day nibble.

6pm Beach @ Golden Gardens 
Bonfire-roasted onions & the aforementioned SRR andouille and sweet Italian sausages. Washed down with warm bourbon-spiked, apple cider.  Confirming our credo that everything tastes better when cooked and consumed on an alfresco flame.  For those who are counting, that is THREE sausages on this very first day of the year.  A fitting number for this pork-o-holic.

9pm

Keeping with the NYE (and Burmeister family tradition), we return home to find a Hoppin' John salad and Ham & Greens crostada lovingly made by Joe's mom, Toni. Each ingredient a prosperous metaphor: black-eyed peas = coins, greens = money,  and pork = moving forward (since pigs scrounge  forward).

This diary of my inaugural 2013 food reminds me why I keep this online journal afloat.  More than a written and visual record of What I Devour, it is an ode to the magical and multi-faceted experience of eating.  The provenance of ingredients, the setting where meals are consumed, the company with whom we share, and the traditions that are passed throughout the years: these all make food more than mere sustenance.  Just on Day One of 2013, I awoke to the buttery aroma of griddle pancakes, I snacked on homemade cookies, I dined at a beach bonfire, and I enjoyed the tasty trifecta that is local, organic, and grass-fed pork.  Each meal surrounded by friends and family. An auspicious and delicious start to a new year....

P.S. For more musings on the meaning of food, please check out this New Year post on my friend, and fellow scribe, Robin's blog, Chefs Wear Clogs.   

A Daily Dose Of Vitamin O

Mighty-O Donuts Tangletown, Seattle
www.mightyo.com

These are the longest 8 days of the year. I'm talking about Passover, the Jewish holiday that honors their ancestors' exodus from slavery in Egypt. As the story goes, they fled with such haste that their bread dough had no time to rise. To commemorate this plight, Jews abstain from leavened bread and grains throughout the holiday. For some, especially carb-free folks like Atkins aficionados, this is--pun intended--a piece of cake. Yet, for me, a pasta-loving, beer-guzzling, pastry junkie, these are eight days of eternity (after all, a horizontal 8 = infinity). Since I can't consume my beloved baked goods, why not write about them? It's a bit masochistic, but considering I'm writing this post surrounded by a French Toast pop-up at Fix, my local, Echo Park cafe, perhaps I'm a glutton for punishment.

Having just returned from Seattle, I have donuts on the brain--and in my belly. The Emerald City is home to one of my all-time fave donut shops, the Mighty-O. For a dozen years, the Mighty-O has made their outstanding orbs in a surprisingly healthy way--they are organic AND vegan. When I first heard of these traits, I scoffed at the thought. Only in Seattle, the epicenter of eco-conscious living, would they dare to devise a wholesome donut. However, these are truly some of the freshest, most delectable donuts I've ever had. In spite of their fried nature, they are remarkably light and airy, yet still jam-packed with flavor. They transcend the processed norm --see Krispy Kreme--excelling to the exquisiteness of a fine French pâtisserie.


Our unanimous crowd-pleaser is the Cinnamon & Sugar, a traditional cake donut that is simultaneously fluffy and decadently doughy. The finger-licking topping, amazing on its own, gives good sweet to our Americanos. We also enjoy the Good O'L Glazed, which doesn't overdo it on the glaze, allowing for the old-fashioned flavor to come through. Simplicity is bliss.



Robert, my nephew, double-fists the Chocolate Top, a vanilla cake donut coated with cocoa frosting. As one would expect from a high-quality baker, the frosting is just the right mix of bitter and sweet, like a fine bar of dark chocolate from another local & organic fave, Theo's. We also dig the French Toast donut, a homey, and less-sticky, iteration of the brunch classic.



One of the downsides to an all-natural donut is that they don't keep well. While Mighty-O's are sold all over town, they are best consumed at their cozy shop in Tangletown. Come between 7-9am for freshly-fried goodness and grab a steaming cup of Stumptown for dunking. If the weather permits, Green Lake is just a short walk away.


For those craving a super-size version, hit the road for George's Bakery in North Bend, a 30-minute drive east. Their gargantuan glazed doughnuts are proof that size does matter. Perfect for pigging out solo or sharing with friends.

This Ain't No Joke

Serious Pie Seattle, WA 25.Nov.09
http://tomdouglas.com/index.php?page=serious-pie
eat: Italian Bread Soup, Pizzas: Yukon Gold Potato/Rosemary/Olive Oil, Penn Cove Clams/Pancetta, Cherry Bomb Peppers/Sweet Fennel Sausage, House Salumi/Walla Walla Onions/Sardegna
sip: Campodelsole Sangiovese 06

In the past few years, my sister, her hubby, and our Seattle entourage have started a night-before-Thanksgiving tradition where we load up on carbs before the big day. In 2007, it was uber-cheesy macaroni and cheese (from the New England Cookbook by Brooke Dojny. Click for the fab recipe here ). '08 was Joe’s delightful linguini with white clam sauce. We are like marathon runners training before the big race; however, instead of fueling our bodies for 26 miles of running, we are essentially expanding our stomachs to allow for more eating. This year, to keep the tradition going, and also to satisfy my ongoing urge to try new places, we went to Serious Pie, the downtown pizza joint owned by the prolific local chef, Tom Douglas.

Normally Serious Pie is jam-packed with lines spilling out the door, but since it was the eve before Thanksgiving AND a nasty storm, we arewhisked to our seats immediately. Serious Pie is a cozy spot that I like to call “Medieval Urban”; the communal tables and glowing fire of the pizza oven harken back to pubs in ancient times, yet the sleek lighting fixtures and glass-walled view of the adjacent bakery add a modern edge. We begin our meal with an Italian Bread Soup - a tasty potage of salty chicken broth, earthy kale and croutons so buttery they were impermeable to soggy-ness. It is a satisfying amuse-bouche that both warms our damp bodies and tempts our tummies for the upcoming feast.


The procession of pizzas starts with the Penn Cove Clam,
House Pancetta, and Lemon Thyme Pizza. I grew up near Pepe’s Pizza, the famous New Haven pizzeria whose clam & bacon pizza has such a cult following that people order it frozen to be delivered across the country. The version at Serious Pie is insanely good; the briny, local clams combined with salty bacon is a fantastic (and totally un-kosher) flavor combination. In Seattle, seafood simply tastes better thanks to the "just plucked from the sea" freshness; plus, the sea-scented air adds another dimension to the sensory experience.


The Yukon Gold, Rosemary, Olive Oil Pizza is a naughty, rich, "oil dripping down to the chin" pie. One may be worried that the starchy potato would be overshadowed by the bready crust, but instead the potato's earthy-ness and complexity is highlighted. Speaking of the crust, the crucial foundation to great pizza, I find it wonderfully airy and yeasty, with just enough cornmeal dusting and wood-charred edges. Normally, I find that crust is tertiary to topping quality and sauce, but this complex crust is as good as any fine loaf of freshly-baked bread. Or, as the website aptly states: "Serious Pie is a pizzeria with a bread baker's soul" . Fyi, like many gourmet pizzas, this crust needs to be eaten fresh; when I brought a pizza home one night, I found it overly chewy and bland even when reheated.



Next up is the House Salumi, Walla Walla Onions, and Sardegna Pizza The salumi du jour is a magnificent, rosy-hued Coppa (cured pork shoulder) that is made in-house. The coppa, which blankets a generous 3/4 of the pie, pairs nicely with the tangy Sardegna (sheep's milk cheese), and sweet onions.


Finally, the Cherry Bomb Pepper and Fennel Sausage Pizza arrives. This interpretation of the classic Italian combo of sausage and peppers is heightened by the top-notch quality of the ingredients. The sausage is a carnivore's delight - meaty, juicy, and packed with flavor - while the peppers are pungently pickled and sweet. For drinking, there is an inexpensive wine list, with most bottles priced under $40 as well as a small, but well-curated selection of beers. We enjoyed the fruity and smooth Campodelsole Sangiovese '06

Serious Pie is a prime example of the artisan pizza movement that's sweeping the nation. There have been those that complain about the non-traditional toppings, lack of tomato sauce, and high prices. However, I like how these gourmet pizzas are stages on which quality ingredients - like burrata, guanciale, and squash blossoms - can shine. It's also a great way to eat well without breaking the bank.

The Good German

People’s Pub Seattle,WA 21.Nov 09
www.peoplespub.com
Eat: Wiener Schnitzel, Spätzle, Rotkohl
Sip: Spaten Optimator

Before the trend of gastropubs - a pub with gourmet grub - swept the nation, there was The People’s Pub. This German tavern devotes just as much focus to the food as to the beer; the main attraction isn’t waitresses clad in busty, Bavarian dresses, but authentic, Swabian cuisine (foodie nerd note: Swabia is a cultural region in Southwest Germany).

Although the menu is peppered with more exotic fare like Jägerschnitzel or Paprikaschnitzel, I opt for the original Wiener Schnitzel Dinner, a heaping plate o’ comfort perfect for a rainy night in Seattle. The schnitzel is a hefty portion of thinly-pounded, moist pork blanketed in crispy breading. Although traditional Wiener Schnitzel is made with veal, this porcine version is quite common (and more palatable to the “non-baby cow-eating” crowd). In this world where pastas are laden with sumptuous sauces and fancy ingredients, the simplicity of the spätzle, a starchy, egg pasta in butter sauce, is down-to-earth pleasure. The veggie part of the plate, if you don’t count the dusting of green parsley garnish, is vibrant, fuschia rotkohl, a traditional German dish of red cabbage sautéed in vinegar and apple cider. This meal is a nostalgic nod to my childhood, when mom often served up breaded chicken cutlets (fried in butter rather than the more healthy & culinary-savvy olive oil we use now) with buttery rice pilaf. In fact, my love of butter-yes, this is the FIFTH time that word has been used in this entry-stems from my mom’s affection for the stuff - rather than spread a meager pat onto toast, she slathers thick ½” slabs. I swear I even once saw her sneak a square of unadorned butter out of the fridge! In sticking to German tradition, I quaff a regional brew, Spaten Optimator, a full-bodied, dark ale brimming with roasted malt flavor.

The People’s Pub embodies all that a neighborhood bar should be. It’s located in a picturesque part of town (Ballard), the food is filling and tasty, the quality beer is available in pitchers, and there is a cozy, conviviality that beckons groups and individuals alike. Plus, there are a variety of board games to encourage hours of good times amongst friends. As I sit surrounded by my sister & brother-in-law (who are the wise folks who introduced me to this pub), I can’t think of a better way to welcome me back to Seattle.