Silver Lake, Animal-style

Black Hogg Silverlake March '13
www.blackhogg.com
eat: Spicy Chicken Liver, Brussels Sprout Hash, Popcorn Bacon, Buttery Lamb Burger, Lamb Belly, Octopus and Scallop Chana Masala, Five Milks Bread Pudding

Drop it like it's hot.

Chef Eric Park cherishes chilies like Snoop digs weed. Moroccan harissa, Japanese togarashi and Mexican serranos pack the menu with piquant punch; Black H-O-Double G is the International House of Hotness.

Like its namesake--a black hogg is actually a year-old sheep--Black Hogg is celebrating its one-year anniversary. Even after liquor-license hiccups and a scathing L.A. Weekly review (which destroyed my trust in B-Rod), this carnivorous charmer is better than ever. Serving up lusty, robust fare--inspired by a stint at April Bloomfield's Spotted Pig--Chef Park's perks up dishes with pickled goodies and ethnic spices embracing L.A.'s multiculturalism. The GG-funk era has hit the Eastside.

Given the name and neon sheep beacon out front, its no surprise that Black Hogg is a mecca of meat. Park's skillz on the grill create succulent steaks, juicy burgers, and crispy pork. Come hungry, but leave the vegetarians at home.

Cirelli Montepulciano D'Abruzzo

While Black Hogg has an itty-bitty, affordable wine list, I'm a fan of their SLW-BYOB policy: free corkage for any bottle purchased at Silverlake Wine, the best, and friendliest, wine shop in town. Our  Montepulciano D'Abruzzo is an unfussy, soft red that pairs nicely with our meaty meal. 

Spicy Chicken Liver Pâté

I should have a P.H.D. in pâté considering I've consumed my body weight's worth. Chef Park's pâté gets an A+ in my book; it is rustic, earthy and chunky--a la Osteria Mozza--then he adds caramelized serranos for piquant pleasure. Big triangles of fried chicken skin anchor the pâté--crispy sails on luscious, liver boats. 

Popcorn Bacon

A contender for L.A.'s most artery-clogging bar snack, breaded and deep-fried bacon nuggets come with a creamy, maple dipping sauce. As an amuse-bouche, one piece of this piggy popcorn would be perfection, but I found the generous helping borderline overkill.

Lamb Belly 

 A crispy slab of roasted lamb belly blankets aromatic jasmine rice. With a wonderfully crunchy, spicy fennel harissa slaw and a cooling yogurt sauce, the whole is a savory sum of each tasty part. 

Brussels Sprout Hash

In spite of the sprouts ubiquity about town, this dish reminds me why they are so beloved. Twice-cooked Brussels--equally crispy and tender--are tossed with bacon vinaigrette and fingerling potatoes. The poached egg is a beauty: a glistening white orb beckoning to be punctured.

Buttery Lamb Burger

Butter is not just an adjective, but an actual ingredient. The added pat of fat makes for an oozing, juicy patty. Stacked with Onetik sheep's milk blue cheese and pickled habanero onions, this is a trip-worthy burger. The accompanying fries have all the yum of McD's spuds without the processed ick.

Scallop and Octopus Chana Masala

Crispy octopus and a succulent scallop gussy up chana, a traditional Indian chickpea dish. Our waiter's spice warning is spot-on; each fiery bite is a tantalizing blend of chili, garam masala, and garlic. 

Five Milks Bread Pudding

Why stop at très when you can have cinco leches? Buttermilk, heavy cream, condensed & evaporated milk  and whipped cream drench a brioche tower with deliciousness. Brown-butter apples and toasted pecans create a comforting combo. French toast for the evening.   

FYI, the no-reservation policy can lead to long waits on weekend nights. Fortunately, the hostess is refreshingly honest about wait times. Wander down to the Thirsty Crow, where dapper mixologists will help you pass the time liquourously.

Baco Slideshow

Bäco Mercat Downtown March '12
www.bacomercat.com
eat: Toron Bäco, Mushroom Coca, Caesar Brussels Sprouts, Crispy Favas, Creamed Spinach, Wild Boar, Goose Confit, Chocolate Peanut Butter Cake, Banana Cream Pie
sip: G.B. Long, Gin-pop!, R.B. Italiano

What is my aversion to writing about my favorite restaurants? It's not a question of selfishness, and that I want to keep them all to myself for fear of overcrowding. Quite the contrary--I want to scream from the rooftops about their excellence and share unforgettable meals with friends. No, I am afraid that my words won't adequately describe their awesomeness. Like a letter to a new love, I want each sentence to wholly embody my emotions, yet fret about misinterpretation. To quell my fear, I'm going to take a cue from teenagers, who use pictures, not words, to express their adoration (see: sexting). After my first meal at Bäco Mercat, Chef Josef Centeno's eclectic, comfort food joint, I was speechless. Now that I've returned, I'm officially obsessed with this pleasure palace. Let the slideshow begin...


My first visit was on aptly auspicious Leap Day. With work friends, we lingered over a long lunch on the patio, warmed by winter's sun and entertained by downtown's theatrical sidewalks.

G.B. Long: Rye, Campari, Grapes, Soda

A lovely libation for a sunny day. Peppy, potent, and oh-so-pretty in pink.

The Toron Bäco: oxtail hash, pickle, tater, cheddar, arugula
A stellar sandwich, thanks to orgasmic oxtail (never thought I'd write those 2 words together), a pan-fried potato cake, and Centeno's signature bread, doughy deliciousness reminiscent of NYC's Momofuku pork buns. So good I'd name my first born Bäco.

Caesar Brussels Sprouts, Pecorino, Anchovy, Garlic
A decadent spin on an old standard, served warm and bathed in olive oil.

Cream of Mushroom Coca

The aforementioned bäco dough becomes coca, a cracker-crisp flatbread. Topped with earthy, sautéed shrooms, sage, and pecorino, it's a walk in the Italian woods.

Banana Cream Pie
Adorable, but not sweet. Fresh banana pudding fills up a flaky, buttery bowl, lined with brandied butterscotch, no less.

For dinner, we dine inside. Thanks to the building's beautiful detail--brass-lined windows and soaring ceilings--fussy decor isn't necessary. I dig the vintage wood desk chairs and a rare, restaurant feature: well-spaced tables so you aren't smothered by fellow diners.

(left) Gin-Pop!: gin, bäco pop, ginger shrub
The housemade pop (orange, ginger, juniper soda) adds zing to this delightful quaff

(right) R.B. Italiano: bourbon, Ramazzotti Amaro, root beer reduction, tonic
A childhood fave for grown-ups, thanks to herbaceous Amaro and smoky bourbon.

Crispy Fava beans, Mint, Sherry vinegar

Welcome back, Spring! Seasonal goodness done simple

Creamed Spinach, Bacon, Mushroom, Persillade
Another phenomenal twist on a classic. More like a gratin, with a blistered, brown top and gooey cheese. Rich is an understatement.

Wild boar Sugo Emmental, Celery, Toasted Bread
"A fancy Philly Cheesesteak" describes our waiter, but only in regards to style (meat+cheese+bread) not substance. More like a savory millefeuille, each layer is sublime: buttery bread, succulent, slow-cooked boar (aka sugo), pungent emmental, pickled onions, and a heap of sprouts.

Pulled Confit Goose Leg
A "niçoise salad" is the apt metaphor for this Gauguin-colorful dish. Unctuous goose, tangy blood oranges, pickled radish, bitter treviso, peas, and pear mostarda (a mustard/fruit relish) make up a veritable rainbow of yum.

Chocolate Peanut Butter Molten Cake
The ubiquitous molten chocolate cake gets upgraded with a welcome wallop of peanut butter, both hot (melted inside) and cold (ice cream). "A giant peanut butter cup" proclaims my friend, Barndi.

Things That Make You Go Hmmmm

The Gorbals Downtown 05 May 10
www.thegorbalsla.com
eat: Bacon-Wrapped Matzoh Balls, GLT, Crispy Broccoli, Potato Latkes, Welsh Rarebit, Fettucine with Artichoke Hearts, Sticky Toffee Pudding
sip: Cheesebro Rousanne, Dirty Martini

My job as a costumer requires that I spend most of my day in clothing stores. Lately, I've noticed an unfortunate trend in fashion - everything looks the same. Before, preppy JCrew and hipster Urban Outfitters never had crossover merchandise; now, they both carry oxford shirts, fedoras, and boyfriend blazers. A similar homogeneous current is affecting restaurants; even quality ingredients like pork belly, Jidori chicken, and beets have almost become monotonous due to their ubiquity on menus around town (how many gourmet burgers can one city have???) Consequently, I have been craving something different, something non-traditional, something to make me go "hmmm". Enter The Gorbals, an eclectic eatery in downtown LA, that will pique your culinary curiosity.

As their website accurately states, The Gorbals "does not fall into a category". The cuisine is a unique hybrid of Jewish, Scottish, and Spanish cooking. It's run by a Top Chef Winner, Ilan Hall, yet there isn't an ounce of pretentiousness from the celeb chef. They serve food until the rare hour of 2am. An ethnic folk band, The Petrojvic Blasting Co, plays Thursday nights. The restaurant is housed in the enchantingly bizarre Alexandria Hotel. Although the historic Alexandria has recently been renovated into low income apartments, the building still has a faded, Lynchian charm - a trip to the bathroom reveals a hidden jazz club and a dusty, majestic ballroom. The decor is industrial and raw, with highlights including an enormous communal table of rough-hewn wood, kitchen-view seating, and angular, wooden pillar-like stools. In spite of the minimalism, the room still hums with a convivial, homey vibe thanks to the affable staff. Since the menu features obscure organs like sweetbreads and gizzards, an adventurous and carnivorous eater will be in hog heaven here; however, when I came with my pseudo-veggie friend, Gretchen, she was able to find something to nosh. Having dined here three times, here is a smattering of my faves:


Many have dubbed the Bacon-Wrapped Matzoh Balls to be the "signature dish" of The Gorbals. They have garnered a lot of attention due to their shamelessly un-Kosher combo ; yet they are more than just a provocative plate. The crispy, fatty bacon accentuates the soft, doughyness of the matzoh ball and the fresh grated horseradish and parsely add a welcome zing to the plate. Surprisingly, these are amazingly light; like donut holes, one could practically pop a dozen in your mouth before getting full.


Latkes with Smoked Applesauce I wish latkes were not just restricted to Jewish delis. In spite of their deliciousness, they are a pain-in-the-arse to make, both because of their tendency to disintegrate mid-frying as well as the pungent oil smell that permeates your kitchen for days . Ilan's version is crispy, salty, thin and tinged with rosemary. The accompanying smoked applesauce pairs well with these and other meaty menu items.



Gribenes, Lettuce, Tomato Sandwich Gribenes, aka chicken skin, is the Jewish version of chicharrón -pork rinds. I had expected the gribenes to resemble the crunchy, oily skin of a roast chicken, but was sorely mistaken (as you can see from the photo on the right). In fact, the skin is cooked in it's own fat (similar to the French confit) which keeps it juicy, succulent, and meatier. Admittedly, I am that eater who relishes the fatty gristle around the steak almost as much as the steak itself, but I strongly believe that even the faint at heart would enjoy this sandwich. The combination of the fresh lettuce and tomato, the creamy dill aoli, and the gribenes is excellent. I would even go so far as to say I like this better than a traditional BLT. In the words of the Sizzlean adds: "Move over bacon....."



Crispy Broccoli with Soy, Chiles, Vinegar Don't be fooled by the few ingredients; this dish packs a powerful punch. On the outside, the broccoli has been charred to a shriveled crisp , yet inside the green flesh is flavorful and moist. It is a clever spin on the usual side of greens sauteed with garlic; it's so good that we debate ordering a second round.



Fettucini With Artichoke Hearts is a light and refreshing pasta perfect for springtime. The pasta glistens with a buttery, lemon sauce which is so unctuous that we are convinced that cream is a primary ingredient (turns out it's not even in the dish!)





Welsh Rarebit with Fried Egg My English ancestors would be ashamed, but I always thought this was a meat dish (maybe I mixed up "rarebit" with "rabbit"?) Thankfully, I tasted my inaugural rarebit here and was excited to find that it is essentially melted cheese sauce on toast. I like the addition of the fried egg and Worcestershire sauce on top; this would be a perfect late-night, prevent-a-hangover snack.



Sticky Toffee Pudding with Nutella-Buttermilk Ice Cream This is more cakey and dense than the traditional oozy version. I sampled this dessert twice; the first time, the pudding had just a hint of toffee sauce, but the second time, the cake was drenched. The sprinkled sea salt transforms the pudding into the flavor du jour, salted caramel. Love the tangy ice cream too.


In beverage-land, The Gorbals has quality liquor, a smattering of microbrews, and an inexpensive wine list. In keeping with my recent white-wine infatuation, I drink Cheesebro Roussane a Carmel Valley, Rhone-style white which has a nice balance of fruit and minerals.


To be frank, this isn't a restaurant for everybody. The eclectic menu is small and lacks any food wimp options. Some have said the decor feels unfinished. Downtown parking sucks. Some experimental dishes are flops. In spite of these critiques, The Gorbals succeeds because it is like nothing else out there - it is artsy, innovative, communal, and relaxed. Each time you visit, who knows what you will find. The ever-changing menu is full of surprises. One night, Ilan served us his famous matzoh balls himself. Another night, my friend hosted a circus-themed, costume soiree. Maybe it's the hybrid cuisine or the diverse crowd, but The Gorbals feels like it could be located anywhere. Fortunately, it's here in good ol' Los Angeles.