This Little Restaurant From A Market

Cortez  Echo Park  20 Oct '12
www.restaurantcortez.com
eat: Sardines, Radicchio Salad, Clams & Chorizo, Farro & Collards, Merguez Flatbread, Basque Cake, Roast Figs
sip: Urki Txakolina '11, Roagna Dolcetto D'alba '11, Saison Dupont

"Our produce, meat and seafood comes from farms, ranches and fisheries guided by principles of sustainability"  

This credo lines the menu at Cortez, the new, pint-sized restaurant on the edge of Echo Park. Phrases of this sort, peppered with utopian, food lingo--seasonal, local, organic--have become standard practice all over town.  Yet, how does a diner know if they are true?

Considering that Cortez is run by the pair who own Cookbook, the neighborhood's green grocer, the the proof is in the product. Cookbook's shelves are stocked--by owners Marta Teegan and Robert Stelzner--with artisan cheese & charcuterie, fresh-picked produce, and grass-fed beef. Each visit makes me feel like a kid in a candy store, yet instead of sweets, I swoon for caperberries, purple cauliflower, and olive bread.   Understandably, the shop's quality ingredients take center stage at Cortez.

Just opened two weeks ago, Cortez already feels like a neighborhood hub.  On a Sunday night, a medley of families with kids, couples, and solo diners filled the itty-bitty space. Lined with an exposed-brick wall, the intimate restaurant is filled with two communal wood tables, a kitchen-view bar, fresh flowers, and giant, bare bulb chandeliers.  The room mirrors the rustic simplicity of the dishes, which feature seasonal bounty flavored with Mediterranean flavors like za'atar, cumin, and pimenton. Our meal epitomizes late summer, which decadently lasts until mid-October here in L.A.

Txakolina & Dolcetto D'alba

I opt for the Urki Txakolina '11. This fizzy and zesty Basque white pairs well with food because it doesn't dominate.  Rob has the Roagna Dolcetto D'alba '11 a light & fruity red well-suited for our Mediterranean fare.  Round two is Saison Dupont, the gold standard of Belgian saison ales. I'm a huge fan of its fermented funk. 

Sardines

Fresh is to tinned sardines as a foraged mushroom is to its canned counterpart. Oily and rich, all they need is the char of the grill, a pinch of parsley & cumin, a glug of olive oil and a squeeze of lemon.  Less is more...

Radicchio Salad

Farm-fresh radicchio is tossed with crisp apples, walnuts, and a gorgeous St. Agur cheese, a buttery, creamy blue that pleases my normally anti-blue palate.  Its heartier than the usual salad thanks to the bitter radicchio, fatty nuts and pungent cheese. 

Clams & Chorizo

Plump, Pacific clams, chunks of chorizo, and onions arrive swimming in a saffron broth, which we soak up with addictive, fresh-baked bread.  A brimming bowl of comfort - Spanish-style.

Merguez Flatbread

While the menu reads "flatbread", our server, Hannah, describes it as Cortez' spin on a hamburger.  I dub it the Greatest Gourmet Gyro.  Two juicy, house-made merguez patties, pickled onions, pickles, and yogurt sauce are stuffed in a fluffy, home-made pita.  Please forgive the fuzzy photo; my hands were dripping with lamb-y, tangy goodness.

Farro & Greens

Nutty farro, charred collard greens, pecorino, and za'atar, a Middle-eastern spice blend, create a toothsome melange.  Healthy never tasted so good.

Basque Cake

Baked by Chef Alex, this dessert is a vanilla-lover's dream.   A buttery, almond crust enrobes fluffy, vanilla pastry cream.   My only complaint is that I wanted a heftier slice.  

Roasted Figs

Hannah generously gifts us with the roasted figs because of their "a-mazing" pairing with the basque cake.  Served with homemade, luscious, raisin walnut ice cream, this is what a good fruit dessert should be:  unfussy and focused on the fruit itself.   

Tonight (October 28th) Cortez will host a book launch party for Todd Selby, the global, food photographer who featured Cookbook in the New York Times.  The event illustrates how Cortez and Cookbook are inextricably linked.    They share commitment to quality, exquisite taste, and are ardently adored by yours truly.  At either locale, support sustainability...it does a body good!

Good Gallic In A Petite Package

Buvette West Village Sept. '12
http://www.ilovebuvette.com/
eat: Terrine de Campagne, Carottes Rapées, Poulpes, Tarte Tatin
sip: Arneis

buvette 
noun (f)
1. a refreshment stall or counter
2. a snack bar at a theater, train station, beach, etc.

In French, and English for that matter, the diminutive "ette" connotes feminine (coquette) or little (cigarette), so it is implicit that buvettes are small.  Buvette, Jody Williams' Gallic gem, is indeed petite, but that's all it has in common with it's casual joints across the Atlantic.  Chef Williams' version--which she calls a gastrothèque-- is a pleasure chest of French delights, from fresh-baked croissants and housemade charcuterie, to classic coq-au-vin and cassoulet.   It is spot-on-Parisian without being too precious, yet with the amiable waitstaff, you avoid the oft French tradition of snooty service.

Tucked away on a picturesque, tree-lined, West Village street, Buvette feels at home amidst the gorgeous boutiques and fashionistas who frequent the neighborhood.   Inside the beautiful spot, tin-coffered ceilings, a zinc-top bar, an idyllic garden, and exposed brick walls make for an inviting and aesthetically-pleasing setting.   Waiters sport classic, striped aprons with a touch of personal style, like bow-ties.

Making most of the minimal space, the primary decor element is the food itself.  Jars of cornichons & olives, bottles of wine, a jambon slicer, baked goods, baskets of fruit, and an old-school citrus press adorn the café, creating a homey, culinary collage.  Accompanied by my foodie friend, Shari, who I met while studying in Paris, we are equally smitten with Buvette's likeness to our favorite French haunts.

The pop-up cocktail menu: whimsy that works. 

Arneis

  

Our waiter suggests Arneis, a Piedmontese white.  This light and crisp wine with hints of pear is a lovely daytime quaff.  One wall of Buvette features a chalkboard wine map to help geographically guide your sipping selection.

Terrine De Campagne

Don't be fooled by the diminutive size.  Each morsel of this country-style terrine is packed with porky pleasure. Wrapped in bacon, the smoky, intense pâté is served with a briny trifecta of cornichons, olives, and, my fave, caperberries.  It is served with a delectable, house-baked Pain de Campagne 

Carottes Rapées

Carrots are elevated to star status in this simple salad.  A mélange of grated carrots, pistachios, lemon, and vinegar is surprisingly delightful. It's just the thing for a hot, end-of-summer day.

Poulpes

 Ordering octopus is risky for it is so often incorrectly cooked (a.k.a. rubbery).  Here, the cephalopod is perfectly prepared and deliciously tossed with capers, shallots, olives, and refreshingly crunchy celery.   

Tarte Tatin

Throughout our meal, the tarte tatin teased me from its perch in my line of sight.  Sweet & gooey caramelized apples are crammed into a buttery crust and topped with tangy crème fraîche.  Stick a fork (or two, which our waiter so attentively did) in it - I've found taste nirvana. 

When we are presented with our bill, it is inscribed with the colloquial French translation: la douloureuse.  While its primary definition is "painful", here the word jokingly refers to the distress of having to dish out dollars.  I can't help but think that after such a lovely meal at Buvette, it should be called "happiness" (le bonheur) instead.

Community Kitchen

Canelé Atwater Village
www.canele-la.com

Each visit to Canelé ends with a namesake pâtisserie: a gift of caramelized, eggy goodness.  Little in size but plump with meaning, the canelé is a thank-you treat for coming, for you, the diner, are an integral part of the restaurant. This isn't a one-sided relationship, where chef gives and diner takes and never the twain shall meet.  Canelé is more than a mere restaurant--it is a community. 


Helmed by enigmatic chef/co-owner Corina Weibel, Canelé is a cozy, culinary club where a love of food is all you need to become a member.  Here, the communal table is the best seat in the house, where solo diners are never lonely and conversation flows as easily as wine is poured.  One visit, I met the owners of nearby Club Tee Yee and was regaled with tales of their legendary, dive bar.  The open kitchen lets diners--especially those at the 3-seat stove-side bar--watch their meal unfold.   It also allows for spontaneous sharing, like when Corina offered me a slice of peanut-butter cake--that had been gifted by a baker friend--for she knew I was a fellow sweets-connoisseuse. 


While everyone (wisely) raves about Canelé's brunch, the entire, French-influenced menu is magnifique.  Since the menu doesn't change often, each dish has been practiced to perfection.  The food is just how I like it: rustic, seasonal, uncomplicated, full-bodied, and equally friendly to carnivores and vegetarians.   

Burrata & Peas
Spring is in the air with this verdant salad of peas, pea tendrils, asparagus, and mint.  Alongside ever-sumptuous Burrata, you get your good and your plenty.

Bistro Steak
You can judge a restaurant by its steak.  Here, the delectable meat is slathered with a luscious, wine-based   Bordelaise sauce.  Accompanied by creamed spinach and pommes anna (a.k.a. amazing potato cake), even I, the perpetual sharer, would recommend ordering this just for yourself. 

Veal Chop
Size does matter with this magnificently meaty chop.  Unbelievably juicy and glistening with anchovy salsa verde, it will change the way you think about veal.  Served with buttery, roast cauliflower & potatoes and sautéed watercress   When Corina sees me gnawing at the bone, she admits the animalistic act is more complimentary than any verbal praise.   

Blood Orange Granita
This refreshing granita is topped with tangy sour cream and a buttery, homemade biscuit that's reminiscent of blue, Royal Dansk cookie tins.   An adult version of a cremesicle. 

Fried Chicken Sandwich
Simply delicious, this sammy just has 3 ingredients: a Crisp & tender fried chicken breast and a slice of pickled green tomato on a spongy, white bun.  Paired with a perfectly dressed Canelé salad, it's unfussy and unforgettable.

Ricotta Coffee Cake 

A genius spin on Italian affogato.   Espresso is poured over ricotta pound cake, instead of ice cream, so that each bite is drenched in caffeine.  With a healthy dollop of crème fraîche, it's a wonderful way to start, or end, your brunch. 




A unique place merits more than the standard restaurant review of titillating photos and prose.  For what makes Canelé hum is the food, and then some...as witnessed by these three tales of yum.   

Friends Cook @ Canelé

Me & Lesley flanking Corina,
our fearless leader 

On random Tuesdays, Corina opens her kitchen to friends, rookie or rock-star cooks, and dreamers who want to live out their chef fantasies.  This is how my twin sis, Lesley, and I were able to cook for a full house of friends and strangers.  Playing chefs-for-a-day, we created a 3-course menu, bought ingredients at the Hollywood Farmers' Market, then prepped, cooked, and plated our meal--with the incredible support of the kitchen and waitstaff. 

On the line

Friends enjoying our meal @
the communal table

We had ZERO experience -- exhibited by my amateur lemon-zesting accident that gave me my first kitchen scar -- yet were welcomed with open arms by Corina and her cooks, who were patient, eager to teach us, and a heck of a lot of fun.   By generously sharing her kitchen, Corina gave Lesley and I a rare glimpse into the inner-workings of cheffing and a night to never forget.  Conversely, we brought her 60 new customers.  

Dinner @ Coleman Farms

Coleman Farm

Canelé's menu brims with seasonal fare from local farms.  I witnessed this firsthand when Lesley & I shopped at the Hollywood Farmer's Market with Matt, Canelé's Sunday forager, who bought crates upon crates of fresh-picked produce. To honor this influential relationship between farmers and chefs, Corina hosted a supper in May at Coleman Farms, one of her most-valuable vendors.  

Corina & the Colemans (Romeo, Delia, and Bill)
next to the grill

Our communal table

Pigs

Situated on picturesque rolling hills in Carpinteria, Coleman Farms is a small, family-run business with a large variety of produce, ranging from everyday radishes to exotic shiso.  As Romeo jokingly explained during the tour, his father, Bill --an avid horticulturist--is the "R&D Department" while he heads up "Marketing".  Before dinner, Romeo showed us around the idyllic 6-acre farm serenaded by bleats, quacks and oinks

Grilled Leg of Pork & Escarole

Antipasti: celery root salad, olives,
 tomatoes, white beans and
artichoke hearts

Goat chops

We dined under a canopy of trees at a communal table. Family-style plates of slow-roasted pork and goat, golden polenta, ruby red tomatoes, deep green cavolo nero, and parsley-flecked celery root were passed around.  I felt like I was living in a food-magazine photo shoot, with each perfect platter as gorgeous as it was delicious. As Romeo aptly stated, Corina and fellow chefs are Coleman Farms P.R. Dept, for they showcase their produce beautifully. 

Paella Party 

How do chefs celebrate their birthdays?  In Corina's case, a co-hosted paella fiesta for 100+ family and friends.  It was a spectacular affair split between two houses; chez Corina, she reigned over the crackling fire, churning out five of her signature, enormous paellas.  At Kristin's casa, platters of grilled yellowtail, green beans, and summer's finest fruit, tomatoes, were passed among guests.  

Paella!

Grilled yellowtail & cherry tomatoes

With views of shimmering, Silver Lake reservoir, plenty of chilled rosé, and Euro-centric nibbles (Marconas, Castelvetranos, and Sopressatas), Corina magically whisked us away to the Mediterranean.  Unlike many clique-y L.A. fêtes, this was a convivial affair where amigos old and new mingled al fresco, sharing in the simple delight of good eating.  If Canelé had a back patio, it would feel like this.     

Get Your Thrill At Red Hill

Red Hill  Echo Park March '12
www.redhillrestaurant.com
eat: Burrata, Cauliflower, Sunchokes, Venison Meatballs, Braised Lamb, Roast Duck, Rotisserie Chicken, Pork Shank, Bread Pudding
sip: Viña Clavidor Verdejo '10, Hedges Red Mountain '08


3 days.  That's how much time passed between my first and second visit to Red Hill.  Normally, if I enjoy my inaugural dining experience, I vow to come back soon, but then get distracted by new openings, random cravings, and my ever-growing list of Places I Want To Try.  It can take months to return. Not so at Red Hill, the 4-month young Echo Park restaurant, where my first time was such a charm, I was lured back immediately.  Red Hill is a true neighborhood joint: it's open 7 days a week, serves 3 meals a day, and is within walking distance to many Echo Parkers.  Plus, the prices are wonderfully low considering the quality of the food--if this was Beverly, not Red, Hill, you'd be paying double for the deliciousness.  The staff is genuinely friendly, continuing the trend of owner Jason Michaud's other resto, Silver Lake's Local.  Chef Trevor Rocco (pictured top) is a zen master in the open kitchen.  Even on a bustling Friday night, he calmly orchestrates orders without any visible stress, even stopping to let me snap a photo.

Viña Clavidor Verdejo 2010
Even white wine naysayers will like this food-friendly Verdejo: a Spanish, medium-bodied quaff brimming with minerality and nectarines

Hedges Red Mountain 2008
This bountiful blend of red varietals (namely Cab Sav, Merlot, Syrah, and Cab Franc) is plump and smooth, without being overly jammy.  Normally only offered by the bottle, our waitress hooks us up with glasses--a generous gesture not uncommon here.

Burrata, Beet Greens Pesto, Peas, Zucchini, Frisee, Red Endive
Hello Spring! Burrata's creamy lusciousness is tempered by garden-fresh veggies and a most delectable beet green pesto.  

Cauliflower, Oregano, Pine Nuts, Chili Aioli
Who knew cauliflower could be so decadent? Browned and buttery, tossed generously with pine nuts, fresh oregano, and a smoky spiced aioli, I wholeheartedly dub this the best brasssica in L.A.

Venison Meatballs, Smoked Eggplant, Pickled Hot Peppers
Venison gives gamey heft to the common meatball. Paired with garlicky & smoky eggplant purée and piquant peppers, it's a most tasty trifecta.

Sunchokes, Black Radish, Apple Gastrique
Cut in big chunks, these roasted sunchokes become spudlike, yet with that earthy, artichoke goodness that is the hallmark of this vegetable.    

Roasted Duck, Yams, Whiskey Jus
Exquisitely crispy skin, moist meat, roast wedges of yam, and tangy whiskey sauce.  Thank you, Trevor, for serving duck without its usual, cloyingly sweet accoutrements.  Perfection! 

Spit-roasted 1/2 chicken, Baby Yukons, Mustard Greens
"You can always judge a place by its chicken" says my dinner date, Anna. Here, it's scrumptious, not surprising due to the kitchen's rotisserie oven (in full view from our perch at the bar). Served with the traditional sides of greens and potatoes, this is classic comfort.

Telegraph Winter Ale Braised Lamb, Cippolini Onions, Brown Butter Mash
Thanks to its beer bath, the lamb is savory and tender.  Atop a caramelized heap of onions and buttery, mashed potatoes, each bite is satisfyingly good.

Apple Cider Pork Shank, Collard Greens
Size does matter with this Flinstone-sized shank.  No knife required for this fall-off-the bone succulence, which goes swimmingly with hearty greens.

Banana Bread Pudding  
 For me, the simpler the better when it comes to desserts. The buttery, piping-hot bread pudding is seductively slathered with a cool cascade of freshly whipped cream.  Yum.