A Manly Meal For A Birthday Girl

The Parish Downtown, LA 10.11.12
www.theparishla.com
eat: Deviled Eggs, Chicken Liver Toast, Pork Shoulder Poutine, Celery Root Mash, Sunchokes, Chicken Wings, Grilled Shrimp, Fried Chicken, Sticky Toffee Pudding
sip: Hubert & Blegér Crémant D'Alsace Rosé, Black Bee, Disco Nap, Amaro

Thank goodness for girlfriends.  Mine are especially rad with their simultaneous beauty, sass, and smarts, traits that could induce extreme envy, but instead keep me inspired.  Most of them enjoy eating (these aren't those "I'll just have a salad, hold the dressing" kind of gals), yet I'm admittedly the gourmandette:  the one who insists on ordering multiple desserts, who finishes everything on our shared plates, and who has a penchant for all things porcine.  Hence, my ladies let me pick the location for our monthly dinners.  For my birthday, I chose the Parish.

Considering my love for Tasting Kitchen, Chef Casey Lane's Italian-inspired gem in Venice, I had a hunch I'd dig The Parish, his new, Downtown gastropub.  As a foursome, I knew we'd be able to tackle a good chunk of the menu, which brims with comfort food -- fried chicken, poutine--with ethnic twists.   That night was our first rainy eve of the fall--perfect weather for feasting.  What followed was an unforgettable meal.  We ate like men, both in quantity and gusto, battling each other for each last morsel.

Located in a triangular building reminiscent of NYC's iconic Flatiron, the Parish feels decidedly urban.  Spacious windows and outdoor patios offer intimate views of street life and traffic .  The cosmopolitan vibe continues inside.  At the inviting bar, polished steel taps, gleaming glassware, and aproned bartenders beckon you to linger over drinks.  With vintage photographs, tawny wood floors, wallpapered walls, and a cozy candle-filled fireplace, the dining room has the familiar, masculine warmth of an English pub.

A Birthday Toast!

 "Too much of anything is bad but too much champagne is just right" - F. Scott Fitzgerald.  One of the many boozy quotes that decorate the drinks menu, this one was particularly pertinent thanks to the bottle of bubbly gifted by my good friend, Hollis. A burst of chilled strawberries, the Huber & Bléger Crémant D'Alsace Rosé was perfect for getting the party started. 

Black Bee

The manly and magical Black Bee is composed of house-barrel bourbon, stout, lemon, honey. Each ingredient compliments the other, with the stout giving it a welcome, bitter coffee zing.

Disco Nap

 Grappa--which our waitress aptly dubs "Italian Moonshine"-- is normally too heady for my taste.  But this libation, made with Prosecco grappa, Aperol (a bitter orange liquor), muddled lemon and a sprig of mint will change the way you think about the g-word.   A feminine drink with heft, like a woman in a Botticelli painting. 

Ladyface Red Rye and Eagle Rock Manifesto

 An abundance of SoCal brews on tap give the Parish local cred. Try Eagle Rock's Manifesto, a citrus-y, wheat beer, and Ladyface's Red Rye, a nice balance of bitter and hops.

Amaro Meletti

Warning: a seat at the bar can lead to impromptu tastings.  On my inaugural visit to The Parish, my amiga, Alyce, and I got an in-depth Amaro lesson thanks to Brian, our affable--and barely-legal looking--bartender.  The bitter digestivo varies depending on the producer: the Amaro Meletti has a unique, saffron spice while the Amaro Montenegro has hints of orange and clove. 

Deviled Eggs

It's hard to go wrong with this classic nibble. Here, they are emboldened by pickled chilis, giving them more kick than the usual dusting of paprika.

Chicken Liver Toast

Who needs foie-gras when chicken liver is this decadent? This macho pâté is intense and gamey, coarsely chopped, and garnished with thick bacon.   It's a tie with Mozza for L.A.'s leading liver. 

Pork Shoulder Poutine

This Québécoise has poutine in her DNA.  Like other iterations around town, cheese curds and gravy are given a gourmet makeover.  Cubes of homemade paneer and a porky, chili-scented sauce replace curds and gravy.  Succulent chunks of pork shoulder are the pièce de résistance.

Celery Root Mash

A crowd-favorite, this is more than the average mash.  Celery root is more complex than its tuber cousin. Topped with a naughty dollop of harissa butter, it's gluttonously good.

Grilled Sunchokes

As succulent and squishy as escargot, these sunchokes reign supreme.  They are delectably tossed with balsamic roasted shallots, watercress, and salsa verde.  

Grilled Shrimp

Morocco meets shrimp when served with cumin-roasted carrots, black olives, fried chickpeas, and mint yogurt.  This wood-fired goodness is a refreshingly different way to eat shrimp.  

Chicken Wings

 Using quality wings, not the stringy counterparts so oft served in bars, this haute rendition is beer-laquered, sticky sweet, finger-licking yum.

Fried Chicken

 The chicken is so juicy good that my gluten-free friend savors the bird even when disrobed of its mouthwatering skin.  Roasted brussels and braised greens balance out the fried.  Yet another terrific version of a culinary trend.

Sticky Toffee Pudding

 Due to an ordering error, our dessert is served simultaneously with our fried chicken.  A high-brow hybrid of a low-country classic, chicken and waffles, we get our savory with our sweet.  The moist, brown-sugary cake bathed in toffee sauce is too good for four girls to politely share. 

While the food indeed rocks, the friendly and skilled staff ensure an excellent time at the Parish.  Case in point: instead of sneers at my silly birthday tiara (thank you, Barndi), genuine well-wishes were said by all who passed our table.

FYI, the Parish just launched a morning menu (fresh-baked pastries and breakfast biscuit sammies) and Happy Hour with nibbles, discounted drinks, and communal punch.   Even more reasons to return as soon as possible!

Good Gallic In A Petite Package

Buvette West Village Sept. '12
http://www.ilovebuvette.com/
eat: Terrine de Campagne, Carottes Rapées, Poulpes, Tarte Tatin
sip: Arneis

buvette 
noun (f)
1. a refreshment stall or counter
2. a snack bar at a theater, train station, beach, etc.

In French, and English for that matter, the diminutive "ette" connotes feminine (coquette) or little (cigarette), so it is implicit that buvettes are small.  Buvette, Jody Williams' Gallic gem, is indeed petite, but that's all it has in common with it's casual joints across the Atlantic.  Chef Williams' version--which she calls a gastrothèque-- is a pleasure chest of French delights, from fresh-baked croissants and housemade charcuterie, to classic coq-au-vin and cassoulet.   It is spot-on-Parisian without being too precious, yet with the amiable waitstaff, you avoid the oft French tradition of snooty service.

Tucked away on a picturesque, tree-lined, West Village street, Buvette feels at home amidst the gorgeous boutiques and fashionistas who frequent the neighborhood.   Inside the beautiful spot, tin-coffered ceilings, a zinc-top bar, an idyllic garden, and exposed brick walls make for an inviting and aesthetically-pleasing setting.   Waiters sport classic, striped aprons with a touch of personal style, like bow-ties.

Making most of the minimal space, the primary decor element is the food itself.  Jars of cornichons & olives, bottles of wine, a jambon slicer, baked goods, baskets of fruit, and an old-school citrus press adorn the café, creating a homey, culinary collage.  Accompanied by my foodie friend, Shari, who I met while studying in Paris, we are equally smitten with Buvette's likeness to our favorite French haunts.

The pop-up cocktail menu: whimsy that works. 

Arneis

  

Our waiter suggests Arneis, a Piedmontese white.  This light and crisp wine with hints of pear is a lovely daytime quaff.  One wall of Buvette features a chalkboard wine map to help geographically guide your sipping selection.

Terrine De Campagne

Don't be fooled by the diminutive size.  Each morsel of this country-style terrine is packed with porky pleasure. Wrapped in bacon, the smoky, intense pâté is served with a briny trifecta of cornichons, olives, and, my fave, caperberries.  It is served with a delectable, house-baked Pain de Campagne 

Carottes Rapées

Carrots are elevated to star status in this simple salad.  A mélange of grated carrots, pistachios, lemon, and vinegar is surprisingly delightful. It's just the thing for a hot, end-of-summer day.

Poulpes

 Ordering octopus is risky for it is so often incorrectly cooked (a.k.a. rubbery).  Here, the cephalopod is perfectly prepared and deliciously tossed with capers, shallots, olives, and refreshingly crunchy celery.   

Tarte Tatin

Throughout our meal, the tarte tatin teased me from its perch in my line of sight.  Sweet & gooey caramelized apples are crammed into a buttery crust and topped with tangy crème fraîche.  Stick a fork (or two, which our waiter so attentively did) in it - I've found taste nirvana. 

When we are presented with our bill, it is inscribed with the colloquial French translation: la douloureuse.  While its primary definition is "painful", here the word jokingly refers to the distress of having to dish out dollars.  I can't help but think that after such a lovely meal at Buvette, it should be called "happiness" (le bonheur) instead.

It's All About The Benjamin Bailly

Cliff's Edge Silver Lake Feb '12
www.cliffsedgecafe.com
eat: Chickpea Fritters, Green Beans, Burrata, Skate Wing, Taleggio Risotto, Ricotta

Looks get you far in this town. Restaurants, like actresses, sometimes rely on sheer beauty alone, hoping that a pretty place will detract from a mediocre plate. Such was the case at Cliff's Edge, a Silver Lake haunt known for it's gorgeous, outdoor patio, instead of the menu. Under the canopy of twinkling lights and an ancient tree (whose bountiful, sweeping branches remind me of The Swiss Family Robinson), diners escaped busy Sunset Blvd. for a hidden, romantic garden. Since opening in 2004, the patio continued to defy its age--like many Angelenos--yet the food had lost its luster. That is, until Chef Benjamin Bailly arrived.


Thanks to Chef Bailly, a young Frenchman with James-Beard-nominated skills, the menu is abloom with local produce and seasonal goodness. Using a bounty of Mediterranean ingredients--pine nuts, capers, cumin --he creates fresh takes on classic dishes. In an unappealing space, the food would still be good. In Cliff's Edge's magical garden, it's phenomenal. At a recent celebration for my vegetarian friend, Bianca's, birthday, it was the perfect menu for our non-meat feast (as shown in our smiling faces).



Chickpea Fritters add some fried naughty to the nutrition of garbanzo beans. Dunked in a delectable lemon aioli, these golden-brown sticks render French fries irrelevant.





Burrata is brightened by grilled persimmon, sprigs of watercress, and a ruby-red Pomegranate vinaigrette, seeds included. While I'm normally not a fan of persimmons, here, they are more caramelized than sweet, the same way yams are yummier when roasted, not whipped with marshmallows.





In the risotto, the Taleggio gives good funk to the creamy dish made hearty by sautéed mushrooms, pumpkin seeds, and earthy Tuscan Kale






A crowd favorite, the charred green beans are tossed with pine nuts, raisins, curry, and feta, creating a warm salad of international flavor.







Bailly wouldn't be French without foam. Beneath these brown-butter bubbles lies a succulent skate wing, toasted pine nuts, capers, and sunchokes. Yum!








The whipped ricotta with honey, lavender, and olive oil is luscious and dainty, but I'd prefer this sweetness as dessert rather than mid-meal. Due to the aromatic lavender, our group was split. Some raved about the fragrant herb, while others felt it belonged in our bubble baths.





Chef Benjamin was at the host stand as we left, so we got to sing our praises to him in person. He's a handsome fellow, but it's not his looks that cooked up such delectable fare. It's the whole package--from the setting to the sharing amongst friends--that made our meal memorable.

Happiness on the UES

Felice Wine Bar Upper East Side 24 October 10
www.felicewinebar.com
eat: Polipo Grigliato, Pappardelle alla Bolognese, Broccoli
sip: Maltese Bianco Tenuta Rapitale 09 (Sicilia) , Felice Sardi Giustiniani (Toscana) 09


Although my home is temporary on the Upper East Side, I have still been eager to find a nearby spot that fits my neighborhood needs. I was looking to fulfill that quintessential New York fantasy: where everything you need is just outside your door. The haute, culinary institutions like Daniel and JoJo are too hoity-toity for a nightly nosh. 2nd Ave's restaurant row, a sea of mediocrity, seems to exist more due to convenience and sociability rather than quality of food. Indeed there are some tasty ethnic joints, Baluchi's (Indian) and Pig Heaven (Chinese), but I prefer to savor their dishes at home in my pajamas. When I stumbled on Felice Wine Bar, I finally found my local.


Felice Wine Bar is the sister restaurant to Sant Ambroeus, the Milanese pasticerria and gelateria that has expanded New Yorker's waistlines for 30 years. Felice, which means "happy" in Italian, is more than the average wine bar thanks to one of the owners, Jacopo Giustiniani. Since Jacopo grew up in his family's Tuscany vineyard, which he now runs, his intimate knowledge of wine imbues the restaurant with oenophilic oomph. The vinicultural theme is embraced in the decor: enormous, glass wine jugs create a stunning candelabra centerpiece and wine bottles line the walls. With tufted leather benches, a communal wooden table and a flattering, candlelit glow, the ristorante is equally suited for romantic dates or family dinners. In warm weather, sidewalk tables offer prime viewing of the passeggiata - the urban stroll.


My amica, Inga, and I opt for a seat at the travertine bar. Our charming bartender, Ben, educationally escorts us through the wine list. We sip the Maltese Bianco Tenuta Rapitala 09, a crisp, dry, lemony blend of catoratto and grillo, Sicily’s indigenous white grape. Contrasting, the Felice house white, from the Giustiniani family winery, is a marvelous, medium-bodied misto of buttery chardonnay and grassy vermentino. When ordering, be sure to leave room for the addictive bread basket. Freshly-baked bread arrives with a bright chartreuse olive oil that is earthy and astringent . Unlike the drier focaccia I'm accustomed to, this version is drenched in olive oil. According to Inga, an Italian cognoscente thanks to many years spent studying in Italy, this is the traditional way focaccia is served.



Polipo Grigliato I’ve never used “octopus” and “juicy” in the same sentence before, but this dish heightens this cephalapod to a new level. Grilled, citronette marinated octopus is bursts with plump, moist flavor. Served on a green cauliflower puree with roast potatoes, red onion, black olives, and fresh greens, this hearty appetizer could easily be an entrée. For those who are wary of octopus, I urge you to try this gateway dish - it just might tip the scale in it's favor.



Pappardelle alla Bolognese I often use this dish as the barometer of authenticity in an Italian restaurant. Here, thick ribbons of homemade pasta glisten with a tasty veal ragú. Since the sauce is traditionally made - more runny than hearty - the toothsome pasta stands out. Usually, I prefer a meatier ragú, but the simplicity of the sauce allows for a less heavy dish.




For our greens fix, the contorni menu offers seasonal veggies that are simply roasted or sauteed with garlic. Here, the verdant broccoli is dressed with garlic and olive oil - simplicity is bliss.





As the name says, Felice IS a wine bar, offering more than 100 bottles of wine of which 18 are available by the glass. Scanning the room, I see a couple nibbling crostini while sipping wine at the bar, a woman dining alone, and a garrulous group at the center table. Like other local faves, Felice happily hosts a variety of diners. It is a welcome, and much-needed, fixture on the UES - whether or not you live around the corner.

Sublime on the Sunset Strip

Bar Marmont West Hollywood 15 May 10
www.chateaumarmont.com/barmarmont.php
eat: Smoked Trout, Crème Fraîche, and Potato, Gougères, Fava Bean Bruschetta, Burrata & Grilled Artichoke Board, Hanger Steak & Spinach Salad, Sheep Milk Ricotta Gnocchi, Caesar Salad with Grilled Sardines
sip: Brass Flower, Añejo Old-Fashioned, Peach Bellini


Last weekend, I had a mini-staycation at the Hotel Andaz with my friends for their belated birthday celebration. Although staycations originated from the need for a cheaper alternative to expensive travel, I have discovered that bunking in town has many benefits - you avoid the frustrating hell of airline travel, you can take a break from driving (this is especially necessary in LA) and you have the opportunity to explore unfamiliar neighborhoods you might have overlooked For example, our hotel, which we chose for it's fabulous rooftop pool, was located on the crowded and cheesy Sunset Strip, an area which I avidly avoid. The restaurant options within walking distance on the Strip are limited, unless your dining dreams include a mechanical bull, pricey hotel establishments, or the euro-trash mecca of Sunset Plaza. Indeed, we could have cabbed it elsewhere, but I relished the challenge of discovering a local gem. Ultimately, we ended up at an old place, Bar Marmont, that has been reinvented as a foodie destination.


When I first moved to LA, Bar Marmont was a place for boozing and schmoozing; it was the kind of place frequented by beautiful people who's idea of dinner was a cigarette and a cocktail. However, their culinary caliber increased in 2007 when Carolynn Spence, the chef de cuisine from NYC's popular gastropub, The Spotted Pig, came to helm the kitchen and now it excels as both a bar and restaurant. Inside, the room reeks of sexy; vintage light bulbs and lanterns set the mood. The French/Indochine decor features tile floors, smoky mirrors, and whimsical butterflies floating from the ceiling. We sample from the well-curated cocktail menu, which offers some tasty twists on old classics. First, a gorgeous, rose-hued Añejo Old-Fashioned (pictured right) who's girlie color suggests fruity and sweet, yet instead it packs quite a punch. This is a drink for those who like the taste of tequila rather than have it masked by a margarita’s salt and lime. The Brass Flower, an icy and refreshing take on a French 75, is an elegant concoction of St. Germain, Gin, Champane, and Grapfruit juice. A Peach Bellini bursts with first-of-the-summer peaches. Moving on to dinner, our friendly waitress, Abby, is a knowledgeable guide who helps us navigate through the menu which bursts with seasonal temptations.


Smoked Trout, Crème Fraiche, Potato Chunks of buttery trout top a hollowed-out potato with capers inside. A dollop of tangy, crème fraiche, a sprinkle of chives, and a dusting of paprika complete this delectable dish . The smoked trout is a welcome change from the standard smoked fish, salmon. It’s less oily and overpowering; I’m inspired to make this for my next brunch.



Gougères These surprisingly light, fluffy cheese puffs are France's interpretation of Brazil's addictive Pan de Quejo. I used to dine at Red Lobster (the Shrimp Shrimp and More Shrimp was my guilty pleasure) where each meal would begin with a piping hot basket of cheddar & onion biscuits. These gougères are the grown-up, culinary version and remind me that every meal should begin with cheesy bread.





Fava Bean Bruschetta Springtime’s bean of the moment taste best when they are served in unadulterated glory. Here, a hint of olive oil and salty pecorino highlight the bright, green beauties. Since cooking favas is insanely labor-intensive, I'm happy to let the pros do the work and always order them in restaurants.





Burrata and Grilled Artichoke Board I would return to Bar Marmont just for the sake of sampling this wooden plank of pleasures. I can’t get enough of burrata, the gooey, creamy, buffalo mozzarella that has been a welcome trend in the dining world. This is a multisensory affection; I love how it glistens, how it stretches like taffy, and how it brims with full fat flavor. I have nibbled numerous artichoke leaves to get to the holy grail of the heart, but here, the heart is grilled solo. There is an intensity and meatyness similar to a grilled Portobello mushroom. Slices of yellow heirloom tomatoes and earthy Lucques olives add to the mix. I’m not shy with my bread consumption, yet somehow grilling bread makes it even more irresistible.



Sheep’s Milk Ricotta Gnocchi with Squash Blossoms and Parmesan Thanks to the ricotta, these gnocchi are pillowy and light rather than stick-to-your-belly starchy. Bathed in a creamy, buttery sauce with basil puree and parmesan, this dish is pure comfort. Another springtime fave, squash blossoms, top the pasta, providing both a burst of color and zing to the plate.



Grilled Hangar Steak with Spinach Salad As a bona fide omnivore, who has equal love for animal protein and produce, I adore a dish that fulfills both of these food groups. Case in point: this deconstructed steak salad. On one side, lies a tender, perfectly cooked (charred on outside, pink in the middle) hanger steak. On the other, the salad, with pickled beets, slivers of crispy garlic, smoky blue cheese, and roasted red peppers would be wonderful solo, but it is the perfect side to the accompanying steak.



Ceasar Salad with Grilled Sardines Everyone has their own take on what makes a Ceasar good; some like theirs stinking with garlic, some like theirs drenched in dressing. As a true Libra, who’s always searching for balance, I prefer mine to be a harmonious blend where the ingredients work together rather than have one overpower the rest. The sardines - hearty, fresh ones not the oily, puny versions in a tin - and the fried capers are briny-licious.

After this filling feast, we were thankful for our digestive walk back to the hotel. It reminded me of one of my favorite Italian traditions, the passeggiata, but rather than strolling through piazzas, we trudged along the teeming sidewalks of the Strip. However, rather than sneer at the Saturday-night revelers, we smiled knowing that we had found a diamond in the rough. We would return to Bar Marmont for drinks and apps, for a romantic date, for their Sunday Night Fried Chicken Dinner, for unpretentious, fresh fare.

FYI, the valet is insanely expensive, so try to find parking elsewhere.