Last Supper @ Lou

Lou Hollywood March '12
www.louonvine.com
eat: Shaved Brussels Sprouts, Burrata, Sea Bass, Orange Kumquat Tart
sip: Bailly Quincy '10, Poderi San Lazzaro Pecorino '10, Viña Zanata Listán Blanco '10, De Bartoli Cataratto '09


Three years ago, I discovered Lou Amdur and his eponymous wine bar. After one visit and many glasses, I was hooked. First, by Lou's infectious love & knowledge of all things oenological and the esoteric wine list (with non-traditional, yet evocative descriptions like "unfucked up" and "ephemeral"). Then, the seasonally-driven menu of DJ Olsen, a chef who frequents the Santa Monica Farmers Market so often he's a regular on KCRW's Good Food. An awesome waitstaff and friendly regulars create a convivial vibe. At Lou, one is never lonely dining alone; one night, a conversation amongst strangers at the communal table lead to a Seder invitation.

Two weeks ago, Amdur announced (sniff) he had sold Lou. My initial sadness was soothed by two things: 1. According to his blog, there will be a Lou 2.0 at an undetermined time and place. 2. The new owner has hopes to keep the same staff, menu, and a similarly, styled wine list. Upon discovering that the transfer of ownership will happen April 16th, I brought my friend, Jo, last Friday to celebrate her birthday and bid adieu to Lou. If you've never been or been meaning to return, I urge you to do the same.


In honor of Lou's educational bent, I opt for Orange Wine 101 while Jo chooses crisp whites. I never knew wine came in orange, but our waitress breaks it down simply: orange wines are white wine grapes left longer on the skins. Pictured left, the Poderi San Lazzaro Pecorino '10 , is both refreshing and rich with orange blossom undertones. Jo's Bailly Quincy '10 is a bright, mineral-y Sauvignon Blanc. My 2nd orange, the Sicilian De Bartoli Catarratto '10, is as complex and unique as its homeland. A fan of the obscure, Lou offers wine from the Canary Islands (!): a dry, citrus-y Viña Zatana Listán Blanco '10.




Moving on to food, we start with the Brussels Sprouts, which really show their cabbage side when shaved raw. They make for a delectable winter salad when brightened with vinaigrette and tossed with crunchy filberts (aka hazelnuts), juicy apple, and salty prosciutto.





Next up, burrata. On its own, this is orgasmic cheese. Yet, just as a fine-tailored suit is spiffier with a tie and pocket square, the burrata is elevated by tasty accoutrements: speck, slivered almonds, arugula, aged balsamic vinegar, and roasted grapes. Who knew a simple stint in the oven could take grapes to a whole new level of scrumptious?




The wild, local sea bass is prepared perfectly: moist & tender with a pan-seared crunch. My friend, Jo, aptly exclaims "I've never had fish taste so comforting, like Mom's home-cooking". Served atop a fabulous bed of fennel-leek confit, salsa verde, and red carrots that are equally adorable and delicious.




I always partake in Chef Olsen's yummy, farmers market-inspired desserts. In honor of citrus season, we savor an orange kumquat tart. As with cocktails, I like my dessert bitter, hence my affection for this confection. With the rinds intact, the orange's tartness is in full force, yet is tempered by whipped cream and candied kumquats.




As on this night, each visit to Lou informs and enlightens. Behind those floral curtains, I have sampled new grapes (Jasnières), re-discovered old (Madeira), expanded my cheese vernacular (Hooks 10-year cheddar) and garnered inspiration for my own cooking (Olsen's sausage,egg,lentils,harissa is a staple in my home). While I'm saddened to see Lou go, I eagerly await his next chapter.

Be Italian

Osteria Mozza Hollywood 4 Jan 10
www.mozza-la.com
eat: Grilled Octopus, Crostini di Anatra, Agnolotti Burro e Salvia, Bombolini
sip: Soave Classico Suavia 07

"Be Italian. Live today as if it may become your last". These words were passionately belted out by Fergie in the "Nine", the starlet-packed movie-musical based on Fellini and his assortment of often scantily-clad babes. The film is an orgy of Italian iconography - sporty Alfa-Romeo convertibles, sensual women, high fashion, breathtaking villages perched on cliffs, and the architectural wonders of Roma - that transports the viewer to 1960‘s Italy. Dining at Osteria Mozza, a Los Angeles gem co-owned by powerhouses Nancy Silverton, Mario Batali, and Joseph Bastianich, has a similar effect; the magnificent food, attentive service, and bustling atmosphere combine to create a dreamland of Italian delicacies. Everything is bellisima - the soft lighting, the fresh ingredients, the tantalizing smells of braised meat and pungent garlic, even our fellow diners are beautiful.

In my opinion, a seat at the bar is the best view in the house. The traditional, zinc bar has been perfectly art directed with an array of rustic treats - a bundle of lavender sprigs, platters of roast tomatoes and leeks, white pumpkins, and an adorable menagerie of brass ducks. Behind the bar, aproned staff prepare plates of anitpasti; watching them slice a plump prosciutto is food porn, Italian style. After seeking ordering advice from our friendly & knowledgeable waitress, Julie, we are presented with a gift of ricotta, tapenade, and basil crostini. Since Mozza offers a tantalizing array of cheeses at their Mozzarella Bar, I wasn't surprised that the ricotta was creamy, fresh exquisiteness. Next, there was charred, dare I say "meaty", Grilled Octopus complemented by a lemony celery & potato salad. Usually, celery is an undistinguished ingredient in soups or stuffing, but here the crisp, crunchy veggie is raised to a culinary level and I'm longing to recreate this refreshing salad on a sultry, summer day. In keeping with my "greens at every meal" mantra, Market Lettuces with Crostini Di Anatra followed. The crostini were slathered with a fatty, flavorful duck rillettes (Italian vocab lesson: Anatra = duck) and the greens were perked up with a shallot dressing. Moving on to the carb-ilicious part of the meal, we have Agnolotti bathed in Burro e Salvia (sage butter); these little, pillowy pasta pockets miraculously stuffed with 5 kinds of meat, including veal cheeks, pork, and mortadella, are a new contender for the title "Heart Attack on A Plate", the affectionate nickname for Pasta Alla Carbonara. Honestly, this was hands-down one of the best pasta dishes I've ever tasted, a "last meal before you die", orgasmic dish. Perhaps the Tagliatelle with Oxtail Ragu was overshadowed by the awesome agnolotti, but I found the ragu to be overwhelmingly salty and mediocre, though the thick ribbons of homemade tagliatelle were divine. In spite of our bursting bellies, we couldn't resist the Bombolini, fresh doughnuts piled atop huckleberry compote, served with vanilla gelato nestled in lemon curd. The marriage of fried, tangy, sweet and creamy was a flawless finish to our magnifico meal. Throughout the meal, I savored glasses of Suavia Soave Classico 07, a medium-bodied, lemony, mineral-y white wine that complemented the hearty meal beautifully.

When I moved to L.A., I complained about the lack of Italian restaurants, which I blamed on both the absence of a large, Italian community and the carb-heavy cuisine's lack of appeal to fitness-obsessed Angelenos. Thankfully, Osteria Mozza, and the equally yummy sister restaurants, Pizzeria Mozza and Mozza-to-Go (their takeout joint) are here to satisfy my Italian cravings. Mozza isn't cheap, especially if you are an eater like myself, but it's worth the splurge. Deal Alert: A special menu is offered Sun.- Thurs nights at the Mozzarella Bar that includes a cheese, a pasta, a dessert, and a hefty glass of vino for only $35.