No Meat. No Problem.

Elf Cafe  Echo Park

www.elfcafe.com

eat: Tahini Avocado Purée, Baked Feta & Tomatoes, Mediterranean Lentils, Spicy Kale Salad, Vegetable Tagine, Savory Crepe, Braised Portobellos, Pear Tarte Tatin

Vegetarian.  One word so plump with connotations. Practicing produce-eaters proudly wear it like a badge, while carnivores utter the v-word disdainfully, as if it's a disease they hope to never catch.  I tend to veer towards the latter, for as an ardent omnivore, I crave meals that feature all the food groups.  I want my sautéed kale with a rib-eye, my Blue Lake beans with pancetta.  Consequently, I seldom frequent vegetarian restaurants, until I discovered Elf Cafe.

What differentiates Elf from the usual veg-o-bistros, is that Chef Scott Zwiezen doesn't employ the standard practice of recreating veggie versions of meat classics, which often leads to bland, unsuccessful dishes (mock reuben, anyone?) .  You won't find faux-anything on the menu--just straight up, bomb-ass vegetarian food, thanks to the abundance of organic ingredients and flavorful, Middle-Eastern spices.  Vegans and gluten-free folk will also find plenty to eat. Elf showed me that vegetarian fare can be just as hearty, tasty, and even as naughty as its carnivorous counterparts. They do it without being preachy or shoving anti-meat dogma down your throat.  It's all about the vegetables, baby.
 

Upon entering Elf Cafe, you'll be welcomed by Astara, one of the co-owners, who is as equally ethereal as she is enthusiastic. Cozy is an understatement at this intimate, jewel-box of a space, with exposed brick-walls and sultry, low lighting.  Inside, tuck into a table or eat at the kitchen-side bar. Outside, watch the Echo Parkers strut by.

Smoked Paprika Dip
 Every meal at Elf begins with an amuse-dip: a thoughtful gesture considering that even bread & butter doesn't come for free these days. Here, smoked paprika perks up your palate for the upcoming eats.  

Tahini Avocado Purée
Dreamy and creamy, this Arabic-spin on guacamole is adorned with wrinkly, black olives and roasted garlic.  

Baked Sheep Feta and Tomatoes
The baked feta has browned, crisp edges reminiscent of Mac and Cheese--a carb-free version of a childhood fave. Accompanied with more of those tasty, Moroccan olives and roasted tomatoes that smack of summer.

Spicy Kale Salad
While I like my kale uncooked, sometimes it feels like I'm eating pure roughage.  Here, raw kale is gussied up with charmoula (cilantro, parsley, cumin, cayenne) dressing and harissa (Moroccan chili paste).  Topped with avocado, this is the best kale salad in town.     

Vegetable Tagine
This hearty bowl o' comfort features farmers market veggies bathed in traditional Moroccan flavors, like cumin, turmeric, and paprika. Served with quinoa and a side of the aforementioned, homemade harissa, for those who crave an extra kick.

Braised Portobello MushroomThe 'shroom brims with a decadently,creamy goat-cheese risotto.  Combined with luscious mashed potatoes, tender asparagus, and a charred tomato, my friend, Tara's, one-word review says it all:  "Transcendent". 

Vegan Banana Tart
Browned-butter goodness, with crunchy pistachios, tangy pomegranate seeds, and a crock of heavy cream for good measure.  

FYI, Elf is cash-only and BYOB, but an ATM and booze can be found a few doors down at King Liquors, which is stocked with micro-brews, but mediocre wine (so plan accordingly).  Reservations are encouraged, but you can expand your beer horizons while you wait at adjacent Mohawk Bend.   Elf will be expanding soon, so go soon if you want to catch the original, adorable version that has been delighting me for the past six years. 

A Daily Dose Of Vitamin O

Mighty-O Donuts Tangletown, Seattle
www.mightyo.com

These are the longest 8 days of the year. I'm talking about Passover, the Jewish holiday that honors their ancestors' exodus from slavery in Egypt. As the story goes, they fled with such haste that their bread dough had no time to rise. To commemorate this plight, Jews abstain from leavened bread and grains throughout the holiday. For some, especially carb-free folks like Atkins aficionados, this is--pun intended--a piece of cake. Yet, for me, a pasta-loving, beer-guzzling, pastry junkie, these are eight days of eternity (after all, a horizontal 8 = infinity). Since I can't consume my beloved baked goods, why not write about them? It's a bit masochistic, but considering I'm writing this post surrounded by a French Toast pop-up at Fix, my local, Echo Park cafe, perhaps I'm a glutton for punishment.

Having just returned from Seattle, I have donuts on the brain--and in my belly. The Emerald City is home to one of my all-time fave donut shops, the Mighty-O. For a dozen years, the Mighty-O has made their outstanding orbs in a surprisingly healthy way--they are organic AND vegan. When I first heard of these traits, I scoffed at the thought. Only in Seattle, the epicenter of eco-conscious living, would they dare to devise a wholesome donut. However, these are truly some of the freshest, most delectable donuts I've ever had. In spite of their fried nature, they are remarkably light and airy, yet still jam-packed with flavor. They transcend the processed norm --see Krispy Kreme--excelling to the exquisiteness of a fine French pâtisserie.


Our unanimous crowd-pleaser is the Cinnamon & Sugar, a traditional cake donut that is simultaneously fluffy and decadently doughy. The finger-licking topping, amazing on its own, gives good sweet to our Americanos. We also enjoy the Good O'L Glazed, which doesn't overdo it on the glaze, allowing for the old-fashioned flavor to come through. Simplicity is bliss.



Robert, my nephew, double-fists the Chocolate Top, a vanilla cake donut coated with cocoa frosting. As one would expect from a high-quality baker, the frosting is just the right mix of bitter and sweet, like a fine bar of dark chocolate from another local & organic fave, Theo's. We also dig the French Toast donut, a homey, and less-sticky, iteration of the brunch classic.



One of the downsides to an all-natural donut is that they don't keep well. While Mighty-O's are sold all over town, they are best consumed at their cozy shop in Tangletown. Come between 7-9am for freshly-fried goodness and grab a steaming cup of Stumptown for dunking. If the weather permits, Green Lake is just a short walk away.


For those craving a super-size version, hit the road for George's Bakery in North Bend, a 30-minute drive east. Their gargantuan glazed doughnuts are proof that size does matter. Perfect for pigging out solo or sharing with friends.