Italian Wedding Soup

After Christmas, we all came down with winter colds.  A medley of symptoms--scratchy throats, achy limbs, throbbing heads--combined with the post-holiday ho-hums necessitated a nourishing soup.  With appetites expanded from our festivus feasts, we were hungry for more than the traditional panacea, chicken noodle soup.  

I recalled an Italian Wedding Soup that I had made to nurture my sister and her hubby when they became new parents.  Three years later, with new cookbooks in their kitchen, I found a delizioso version in Lidia Cooks From The Heart Of Italy, Lidia Bastianach's delightful book of regional Italian cooking.  Named for the custom to serve the soup at a nuptial meal as well as the marriage between meat and greens, this hearty & healthy soup was just what the doctor ordered.   

What distinguishes Lidia's Ministra Maritata is an abundance of greens (zucchini, escarole, chard, and fennel), a traditional pestata for a flavorful broth, and a garnish of provolone for added yum.   In her recipe, she calls for sausage meatballs, but I used my own recipe instead. Feel free to incorporate your favorite meatball recipe, just be sure to take the extra step to brown them.  And like many Italian dishes, each day the soup is even more squisito.  

Italian Wedding Soup
adapted from Lidia Bastianach
serves 8-10

For the vegetable soup
1 medium onion, cut in chunks
2 medium stalks, celery with leaves, cut in chunks
1 small carrot, cut in chunks
4 plump garlic cloves, peeled
½ cup fresh basil leaves, loosely packed
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 quarts cold water (or you can mix half chicken broth and half water, but if so, reduce salt by half)
1 head escarole, about 1 pound, cut into 1/2-inch shreds
1 bunch Swiss chard, about 1 pound, cut into 1/2-inch shreds
1 large fennel bulb, about 1 pound, trimmed and sliced 1/4-inch thick
1 pound zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 3 small zucchini)
2 tablespoons kosher salt

For the meatballs
1 small onion, grated
1/3 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
1 large egg
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon salt
1 slice fresh white bread, crust trimmed, bread torn into small pieces
1/2 cup grated Parmesan
1 lb ground pork (or you can mix beef and pork)
Freshly ground black pepper

For Serving
Pecorino cheese, freshly grated, plus more for passing
extra-virgin olive oil, best quality
½ pound provola, cut in 1/4-inch cubes

Using the food processor, mince onion, celery, carrot, garlic, and basil into a smooth paste (pestata).

pestata

Heat the olive oil in the soup pot over high heat, and scrape in the pestata. Cook, stirring until the pestata has dried out and just begins to stick to the bottom of the pan, about 5 minutes. Pour the cold water into the pot, stir up the pestata, put on the cover, and bring the water to a boil. Lower the heat, and simmer the broth for about 15 minutes, blending the flavors, then stir in the greens, the fennel, the zucchini, and the 2 tablespoons salt. Return to the simmer, and cook covered for 45 minutes or so, until the greens are tender. Remove the cover, and cook at an active simmer for another 45 minutes or longer, until the soup has reduced in volume and the flavors are concentrated to your taste.  

While the soup simmers, prepare the meatballs. Stir the first 6 ingredients in a large bowl to blend.  Add the cheese and pork, then mix the ingredients with your hands to distribute them evenly. Scoop up a small amount of the meat mix-about a heaping teaspoon- and roll it in your palms to form a 1-inch ball (the size of a large grape). 

Spread flour on a large plate, roll each meatball in the flour to coat, then set them aside.  Heat up a thin layer of oil on med-high in a skillet and drop in the floured meatballs. Fry them for about 5 minutes, turning and moving them occasionally, until browned on all sides.  Remove them to a plate lined with paper towels.  Between batches, remove browned bits and add more oil if necessary. 

Bring the soup to a simmer, and cook meatballs and soup together for about 5 minutes. (If you'll be serving the soup later, put the meatballs in a bowl. Reheat them in the soup, and simmer 5 minutes just before serving.) 

Turn off the heat and drop in the cubes of provola. . Give the soup one good stir to distribute the provola pieces, which will begin to melt right away, and immediately ladle individual portions into your warm bowls. (Don't leave the provola in the soup pot for a long time before serving, because it will become stringy.)

Ladle the soup into warm bowls (an essential added step to prevent tepid soup).  Sprinkle each serving with some of the grated cheese, and give it a drizzle of your best olive oil. Serve right away, passing more cheese at the table. 

Brooklyn Passeggiatta

Brooklyn. Whether you love it or love to hate it, it is the holy grail for explorers of the edible. Throughout the borough, ethnic enclaves serve up regional fare: Russians in Brighton Beach, Hasidic Jews in Williamsburg, and Italians in Carroll Gardens. Let's focus on the latter, a neighborhood I once called home. In Carroll Gardens, the streets are peppered with old-school Italian joints, pastry shops, and seasoned butchers, whose friendly paesanos affectionately call you "sweetie" without any hint of sexism. While authenticity & flavor abound, you also get big portions, affordable prices, and the simple joy of knowing that your dollar is helping a local business. Following are three long-standing classics whose lack of websites mean you'll have to check them out the old-fashioned way: in person.





Defonte's Sandwich Shop
379 Columbia Street
Red Hook








Head under the BQE to an unassuming corner of Red Hook for this historic house of heroes. Open since 1922, Defonte's is a true neighborhood joint, dishing up hot prepared food and those famous hearty sammies. Opt for the Italian Stallion - prosciutto, fried eggplant, roasted peppers, and fresh mozz made in-house. There's no seating--many regulars are workers who eat in their trucks parked outside--but the waterfront is a 15-minute walk away. Picnic Brooklyn-style, watching ships sail by with a primo view of Lady Liberty.









Ferdinando's Focacceria
151 Union Street
Columbia Street Waterfront











Time stands still in this century-old restaurant of Sicilian specialties. Whether you chose the sunlit front or the dark, exposed-brick back area (pictured at start), the interior is comfortably charming, with a vintage tiled floor, coffered ceiling, and old-timey black & white photos on wood-paneled walls. Start with arancini, which are not the mini street-food-size you may be accustomed to. These are breaded and fried baseball-size bombs of ground beef, peas, and rice. We went for the gusto--topped with ricotta, tomato sauce and cheese--and weren't disappointed.


Many frequent Ferdinando's for their panelle, a deep-fried, chickpea patty. It comes on a chewy, white bun with homemade ricotta cheese. In these days of healthy eating, I know that "white food" is a no-no, but make an exception for this deliciously simple sandwich.




Continue with the eggplant parmigiana,
a two-handed winner that is as sloppy as scrumptious.
Wash it all down with ice-cold Peronis.











Court Street Pastry
298 Court Street
Carroll Gardens








Get your dolce at this wonderland of Italian cookies, cakes and pastries. Their cannolis are divine - crunchy, cinnamon-y shells filled with creamy, rich ricotta. Around the holidays, they sell traditional sweets like sanguinaccio, an Easter chocolate pudding sweetened with pig's blood. While that may sound downright disgusting, the blood is barely noticeable and imparts more salty than meaty flavor to this dense, almost gritty pudding.

Happiness on the UES

Felice Wine Bar Upper East Side 24 October 10
www.felicewinebar.com
eat: Polipo Grigliato, Pappardelle alla Bolognese, Broccoli
sip: Maltese Bianco Tenuta Rapitale 09 (Sicilia) , Felice Sardi Giustiniani (Toscana) 09


Although my home is temporary on the Upper East Side, I have still been eager to find a nearby spot that fits my neighborhood needs. I was looking to fulfill that quintessential New York fantasy: where everything you need is just outside your door. The haute, culinary institutions like Daniel and JoJo are too hoity-toity for a nightly nosh. 2nd Ave's restaurant row, a sea of mediocrity, seems to exist more due to convenience and sociability rather than quality of food. Indeed there are some tasty ethnic joints, Baluchi's (Indian) and Pig Heaven (Chinese), but I prefer to savor their dishes at home in my pajamas. When I stumbled on Felice Wine Bar, I finally found my local.


Felice Wine Bar is the sister restaurant to Sant Ambroeus, the Milanese pasticerria and gelateria that has expanded New Yorker's waistlines for 30 years. Felice, which means "happy" in Italian, is more than the average wine bar thanks to one of the owners, Jacopo Giustiniani. Since Jacopo grew up in his family's Tuscany vineyard, which he now runs, his intimate knowledge of wine imbues the restaurant with oenophilic oomph. The vinicultural theme is embraced in the decor: enormous, glass wine jugs create a stunning candelabra centerpiece and wine bottles line the walls. With tufted leather benches, a communal wooden table and a flattering, candlelit glow, the ristorante is equally suited for romantic dates or family dinners. In warm weather, sidewalk tables offer prime viewing of the passeggiata - the urban stroll.


My amica, Inga, and I opt for a seat at the travertine bar. Our charming bartender, Ben, educationally escorts us through the wine list. We sip the Maltese Bianco Tenuta Rapitala 09, a crisp, dry, lemony blend of catoratto and grillo, Sicily’s indigenous white grape. Contrasting, the Felice house white, from the Giustiniani family winery, is a marvelous, medium-bodied misto of buttery chardonnay and grassy vermentino. When ordering, be sure to leave room for the addictive bread basket. Freshly-baked bread arrives with a bright chartreuse olive oil that is earthy and astringent . Unlike the drier focaccia I'm accustomed to, this version is drenched in olive oil. According to Inga, an Italian cognoscente thanks to many years spent studying in Italy, this is the traditional way focaccia is served.



Polipo Grigliato I’ve never used “octopus” and “juicy” in the same sentence before, but this dish heightens this cephalapod to a new level. Grilled, citronette marinated octopus is bursts with plump, moist flavor. Served on a green cauliflower puree with roast potatoes, red onion, black olives, and fresh greens, this hearty appetizer could easily be an entrée. For those who are wary of octopus, I urge you to try this gateway dish - it just might tip the scale in it's favor.



Pappardelle alla Bolognese I often use this dish as the barometer of authenticity in an Italian restaurant. Here, thick ribbons of homemade pasta glisten with a tasty veal ragú. Since the sauce is traditionally made - more runny than hearty - the toothsome pasta stands out. Usually, I prefer a meatier ragú, but the simplicity of the sauce allows for a less heavy dish.




For our greens fix, the contorni menu offers seasonal veggies that are simply roasted or sauteed with garlic. Here, the verdant broccoli is dressed with garlic and olive oil - simplicity is bliss.





As the name says, Felice IS a wine bar, offering more than 100 bottles of wine of which 18 are available by the glass. Scanning the room, I see a couple nibbling crostini while sipping wine at the bar, a woman dining alone, and a garrulous group at the center table. Like other local faves, Felice happily hosts a variety of diners. It is a welcome, and much-needed, fixture on the UES - whether or not you live around the corner.

Be Italian

Osteria Mozza Hollywood 4 Jan 10
www.mozza-la.com
eat: Grilled Octopus, Crostini di Anatra, Agnolotti Burro e Salvia, Bombolini
sip: Soave Classico Suavia 07

"Be Italian. Live today as if it may become your last". These words were passionately belted out by Fergie in the "Nine", the starlet-packed movie-musical based on Fellini and his assortment of often scantily-clad babes. The film is an orgy of Italian iconography - sporty Alfa-Romeo convertibles, sensual women, high fashion, breathtaking villages perched on cliffs, and the architectural wonders of Roma - that transports the viewer to 1960‘s Italy. Dining at Osteria Mozza, a Los Angeles gem co-owned by powerhouses Nancy Silverton, Mario Batali, and Joseph Bastianich, has a similar effect; the magnificent food, attentive service, and bustling atmosphere combine to create a dreamland of Italian delicacies. Everything is bellisima - the soft lighting, the fresh ingredients, the tantalizing smells of braised meat and pungent garlic, even our fellow diners are beautiful.

In my opinion, a seat at the bar is the best view in the house. The traditional, zinc bar has been perfectly art directed with an array of rustic treats - a bundle of lavender sprigs, platters of roast tomatoes and leeks, white pumpkins, and an adorable menagerie of brass ducks. Behind the bar, aproned staff prepare plates of anitpasti; watching them slice a plump prosciutto is food porn, Italian style. After seeking ordering advice from our friendly & knowledgeable waitress, Julie, we are presented with a gift of ricotta, tapenade, and basil crostini. Since Mozza offers a tantalizing array of cheeses at their Mozzarella Bar, I wasn't surprised that the ricotta was creamy, fresh exquisiteness. Next, there was charred, dare I say "meaty", Grilled Octopus complemented by a lemony celery & potato salad. Usually, celery is an undistinguished ingredient in soups or stuffing, but here the crisp, crunchy veggie is raised to a culinary level and I'm longing to recreate this refreshing salad on a sultry, summer day. In keeping with my "greens at every meal" mantra, Market Lettuces with Crostini Di Anatra followed. The crostini were slathered with a fatty, flavorful duck rillettes (Italian vocab lesson: Anatra = duck) and the greens were perked up with a shallot dressing. Moving on to the carb-ilicious part of the meal, we have Agnolotti bathed in Burro e Salvia (sage butter); these little, pillowy pasta pockets miraculously stuffed with 5 kinds of meat, including veal cheeks, pork, and mortadella, are a new contender for the title "Heart Attack on A Plate", the affectionate nickname for Pasta Alla Carbonara. Honestly, this was hands-down one of the best pasta dishes I've ever tasted, a "last meal before you die", orgasmic dish. Perhaps the Tagliatelle with Oxtail Ragu was overshadowed by the awesome agnolotti, but I found the ragu to be overwhelmingly salty and mediocre, though the thick ribbons of homemade tagliatelle were divine. In spite of our bursting bellies, we couldn't resist the Bombolini, fresh doughnuts piled atop huckleberry compote, served with vanilla gelato nestled in lemon curd. The marriage of fried, tangy, sweet and creamy was a flawless finish to our magnifico meal. Throughout the meal, I savored glasses of Suavia Soave Classico 07, a medium-bodied, lemony, mineral-y white wine that complemented the hearty meal beautifully.

When I moved to L.A., I complained about the lack of Italian restaurants, which I blamed on both the absence of a large, Italian community and the carb-heavy cuisine's lack of appeal to fitness-obsessed Angelenos. Thankfully, Osteria Mozza, and the equally yummy sister restaurants, Pizzeria Mozza and Mozza-to-Go (their takeout joint) are here to satisfy my Italian cravings. Mozza isn't cheap, especially if you are an eater like myself, but it's worth the splurge. Deal Alert: A special menu is offered Sun.- Thurs nights at the Mozzarella Bar that includes a cheese, a pasta, a dessert, and a hefty glass of vino for only $35.