Sweet Dreams Are Made Of Cream

It's hot in here.

Bare legs, dry skin, chapped lips, blistering sunshine. The Santa Ana's are back. No amount of water can soothe throats parched from these warm winds. This calls for something stronger, something smoother...ice cream.

Since I was a tiny tot, ice cream has been my go-to remedy. The Steinman family freezer was always stocked with Breyers Mint Chip to soothe scraped knees. Good report cards merited trips to Friendly's for their ginormous Reese's Peanut Butter Cup sundae. As an adult, I've sought solace in a pint--no bowl needed-after bad days and worse dates. So, it should come as no surprise that when I'm tormented with thirst (the Santa Ana's have a tendency to cause crazy), I seek my frozen fix. Here are my preferred pints, on both coasts, in the Midwest, and online.

Graeter's Black Raspberry Chip

Graeter's
www.graeters.com

For me, Cincinnati is synonymous with ice cream. Born to a Midwest mom, family trips to our Ohio clan meant visits to Graeter's, a local chain that resembles Baskin-Robbins in style, but not substance.
Since 1870, Graeter's has been churning its "irresistible ice cream" using the French pot method. This small-batch technique creates super-dense and rich ice cream--a Graeter's pint weighs close to a pound instead of the usual 8 oz.--by reducing the air that normally occurs when whipping. My favorite, the gorgeously purple Black Raspberry Chip, bursts with berries hand-selected from Oregon. Chip is inaccurate; these are chocolate chunks that miraculously melt in your mouth, rather than stick to your teeth. You can't go wrong with any of the chip flavors, thanks to Graeter's patented process: liquid chocolate is poured into the pot, the chocolate freezes into a big shell on top and then is broken by hand into chewy chunks.

With adulthood, my trips to Ohio decreased, and Graeter's was only accessible via an online splurge of $75 for 6 pints. Now Graeter's is available at grocery chains nationwide, thankfully bringing ice cream back to its affordable roots.

Dr. Bob's Strawberry, Sour Cream and Brown Sugar

Dr. Bob's Ice Cream
www.drbobsicecream.com

The title is real--Professor Robert Small got his doctorate in Business Administration--but he should have a P.H.D. in delicious. Manufactured at the L.A. Country Fairgrounds, Dr. Bob's handcrafted ice cream uses quality ingredients--seasonal fruit, Tahitian vanilla, and Scharffen Berger chocolate--to make stellar versions of classic flavors. His award-winning, high butterfat ice cream is ridiculously creamy and downright fluffy, as if it was whipped fresh that morning. I was transformed from a loather to a lover of strawberry ice cream after tasting Dr. Bob's Strawberry, Brown Sugar, and Sour Cream. The berries' sweetness blended with tart sour cream and the caramelized yum of brown sugar make for the ultimate scoop for summer. Chocolate aficionados will swoon for the Scharffen Berger flavors. I adore the "Works", a decadent, dark chocolate gem with bittersweet, semi-sweet, and cocoa nibs mixed in.

Eastsiders can buy Dr. Bob's at Cookbook while Westsiders will find pints at Food. Check the site for other retail locations, or for a fresh scoop, visit Frank's Famous in Glendale. Away from L.A.? Dr Bob's can be shipped throughout the U. S. of A.

Steve's Bklyn Blackout

Steve's Ice Cream
www.stevesicecream.com

Before Coldstone Creamery, there was Steve’s Ice Cream. In 1973, this Massachusetts ice cream parlor pioneered the mix-ins, concocting made-to-order flavors like Heath Bar crunch for enthusiastic customers. Sadly, Steve's folded after a corporate takeover led the company in a pre-packaged (a.k.a. low-quality) direction, but former scooper, David Stein, restored the biz in the epicenter of artisanal food: Brooklyn. Collaborating with their culinary neighbors, Steve's repertoire feature Blue Bottle Coffee (Cinnamon Coffee), Salvatore BKLYN Ricotta (Strawberry Ricotta) and even Pies 'N' Thighs donuts (Nola Coffee & Donuts). I'm a sucker for the Bklyn Blackout: milk chocolate ice cream, stout cake pieces from local baker Ovenly and dark chocolate pudding. In response to the rise of dietary restrictions, gluten-free, dairy-free and vegan options are available.

I discovered Steve's in my hometown, Westport, CT, at the Double L Farm Stand. Pints are widely available all over NYC (shout out to Stinky Bklyn!), at East Coast Whole Foods, and, like the others, online.


Hope you enjoy this handy manual for how to beat the heat. Next time you are sending a care package, celebrating a foodie friend's birthday (ahem), or looking for a unique, wedding present, why not give the gift of a six-pack?

Diner Avec Mon Père

I have my father to thank for many things--my smarts, my indefatigable work ethic, the simple pleasure of napping in the sun--yet there are two which are particularly poignant this Father's Day.

1. My enormous appetite, which is more akin to that of a sumo wrestler than a ballet dancer.  Thankfully, I'm blessed with my mother's speedy metabolism, so can chow down without dire, physical consequences.

2. My amour for all things French.  Thanks to my father's Québécois heritage, I was seduced by the romantic language at an early age.  Dad encouraged me to pursue my passion--for he had always struggled with learning French--and years followed with foreign exchanges, studying in Paris, and trips to Francophone countries. Now, I'm a full-fledged Francophile, as one may surmise from my blog's Frenchy name.

Last January, I accompanied Dad to Paris for a work trip, which wonderfully coincided with his birthday.  Since I'm the obsessive eater in the family, he let me curate our dining itinerary. I was left with the challenge of finding a spot to suit both of our needs; none of that nouvelle cuisine--with teeny portions, exotic foams, and exorbitant prices--would do. We needed a bistro with hearty fare to fill our ravenous stomachs yet not empty our wallets.  


While Bistrot Paul Bert had received abundant praise from bloggers and guides alike, it was the enthusiastic endorsement by Richard, a childhood friend's father who lives in Paris, that sealed the deal. A personal recommendation trumps all, especially when given by a man who used to make "Chocolate Decadence" cakes as a side business.   Located in the 11th arrondissement, Bistrot Paul Bert is packed with locals and tourists alike.  The vibe is friendly and convivial, partly thanks to tables so close together that you can't help but converse with fellow diners.  The 3-course prix fixe dinner, scrawled on an oh-so-French chalkboard, is a mere 34 euros.  How could we resist?

Terrine de Campagne Maison
Why does terrine always taste better in Paris? Made in house, this country terrine is remarkably rich thanks to generous nuggets of pork fat. The vinegary, pickled cauliflower and carrots are a lovely, acidic compliment.

Feuilleté de Sot l’y Laisse
When I queried our waiter to define "sot l'y laisse", he explained it was the part of chicken that "only a fool would leave".  Us Anglophones refer to it as the "oyster"--the tender morsel of dark meat on the back of a bird.  Stuffed with sautéed mushrooms and cream sauce in a buttery, flaky puff pastry, it is a gussied up version of Chicken Pot Pie.  I'd be a fool to not have ordered it...

Entrecôte de Boeuf
There's a reason why food blogs and guidebooks rave about Paul Bert's steak frites.  The rib-eye is charred crisp on the outside, rare inside, with an outer belt of juicy fat cinching the steak. The mouthwatering, fresh-cut frites are magnificent.  Note to first-timers: the French like their steak rarer than usYanks, so rare=saignant, medium rare=á point, medium=bien cuit.  

Carré d'Agneau
Not the dainty lamb chops I'm accustomed to, these thick cut, honking chops are well-suited for winter appetites.   They look so delicious that the woman at the next table changes her order to match mine.  The rare meat is rosy pink, enrobed in succulent fat, and served with delectable roast turnips, parsnips, and potatoes in thyme. 

Tarte Tatin

This French classic is essentially an upside-down apple-pie kicked up a notch thanks to the browned-in-butter apples. Blanketed in a salty caramel sauce and paired with cool, whipped cream, it is the best I've ever had in Paris and beyond.

Paris Brest
This frou frou, donut-esque dessert is made with flaky, choux pastry, filled with luscious hazelnut cream, and dusted with powdered sugar.  Though big enough for a party of 4, Dad and I polished it off, whooping with glee after each bite. 

I lost my father last September, so sadly this turned out to be our last trip together.  During this time of grieving, I'm heartened by memories of our travels together.  We shared shark fin soup in Kyoto, schnitzel in Zurich, and digestive biscuits in Oxford.  We'll always have Paris, Dad.  

Bistrot Paul Bert

18, rue Paul Bert

11e Paris 75011

01.43.72.24.01

Baco Slideshow

Bäco Mercat Downtown March '12
www.bacomercat.com
eat: Toron Bäco, Mushroom Coca, Caesar Brussels Sprouts, Crispy Favas, Creamed Spinach, Wild Boar, Goose Confit, Chocolate Peanut Butter Cake, Banana Cream Pie
sip: G.B. Long, Gin-pop!, R.B. Italiano

What is my aversion to writing about my favorite restaurants? It's not a question of selfishness, and that I want to keep them all to myself for fear of overcrowding. Quite the contrary--I want to scream from the rooftops about their excellence and share unforgettable meals with friends. No, I am afraid that my words won't adequately describe their awesomeness. Like a letter to a new love, I want each sentence to wholly embody my emotions, yet fret about misinterpretation. To quell my fear, I'm going to take a cue from teenagers, who use pictures, not words, to express their adoration (see: sexting). After my first meal at Bäco Mercat, Chef Josef Centeno's eclectic, comfort food joint, I was speechless. Now that I've returned, I'm officially obsessed with this pleasure palace. Let the slideshow begin...


My first visit was on aptly auspicious Leap Day. With work friends, we lingered over a long lunch on the patio, warmed by winter's sun and entertained by downtown's theatrical sidewalks.

G.B. Long: Rye, Campari, Grapes, Soda

A lovely libation for a sunny day. Peppy, potent, and oh-so-pretty in pink.

The Toron Bäco: oxtail hash, pickle, tater, cheddar, arugula
A stellar sandwich, thanks to orgasmic oxtail (never thought I'd write those 2 words together), a pan-fried potato cake, and Centeno's signature bread, doughy deliciousness reminiscent of NYC's Momofuku pork buns. So good I'd name my first born Bäco.

Caesar Brussels Sprouts, Pecorino, Anchovy, Garlic
A decadent spin on an old standard, served warm and bathed in olive oil.

Cream of Mushroom Coca

The aforementioned bäco dough becomes coca, a cracker-crisp flatbread. Topped with earthy, sautéed shrooms, sage, and pecorino, it's a walk in the Italian woods.

Banana Cream Pie
Adorable, but not sweet. Fresh banana pudding fills up a flaky, buttery bowl, lined with brandied butterscotch, no less.

For dinner, we dine inside. Thanks to the building's beautiful detail--brass-lined windows and soaring ceilings--fussy decor isn't necessary. I dig the vintage wood desk chairs and a rare, restaurant feature: well-spaced tables so you aren't smothered by fellow diners.

(left) Gin-Pop!: gin, bäco pop, ginger shrub
The housemade pop (orange, ginger, juniper soda) adds zing to this delightful quaff

(right) R.B. Italiano: bourbon, Ramazzotti Amaro, root beer reduction, tonic
A childhood fave for grown-ups, thanks to herbaceous Amaro and smoky bourbon.

Crispy Fava beans, Mint, Sherry vinegar

Welcome back, Spring! Seasonal goodness done simple

Creamed Spinach, Bacon, Mushroom, Persillade
Another phenomenal twist on a classic. More like a gratin, with a blistered, brown top and gooey cheese. Rich is an understatement.

Wild boar Sugo Emmental, Celery, Toasted Bread
"A fancy Philly Cheesesteak" describes our waiter, but only in regards to style (meat+cheese+bread) not substance. More like a savory millefeuille, each layer is sublime: buttery bread, succulent, slow-cooked boar (aka sugo), pungent emmental, pickled onions, and a heap of sprouts.

Pulled Confit Goose Leg
A "niçoise salad" is the apt metaphor for this Gauguin-colorful dish. Unctuous goose, tangy blood oranges, pickled radish, bitter treviso, peas, and pear mostarda (a mustard/fruit relish) make up a veritable rainbow of yum.

Chocolate Peanut Butter Molten Cake
The ubiquitous molten chocolate cake gets upgraded with a welcome wallop of peanut butter, both hot (melted inside) and cold (ice cream). "A giant peanut butter cup" proclaims my friend, Barndi.

Cure for the Common Meal

Salt's Cure West Hollywood Spring '11
www.saltscure.com
eat: Charcuterie & Pickles, Braised Pork Shoulder, Veal Burger, Yellowtail, Mussels, Blackberry Crumble, Bread Pudding, Homemade Ice Cream
sip: North Coast Coturri Rosé 2009, Alesmith IPA


When I spied the "I Love Bacon" paperweight, I knew I had come to the right place. This porcine valentine sits atop the kitchen/bar counter at Salt's Cure, a delicious, down-to-earth spot in Weho. As one would expect from a restaurant/butcher shop, the air is perfumed with roasted, smoked, and braised meat. The small chalkboard menu changes daily due to the fact that the food is admirably sourced from Californian farms. Inside, the sparse space forgoes fancy decor. Instead, the open kitchen, exposed brick wall, flickering candles, and hum of happy diners create a simple backdrop where the focus is on the food. Forget the Food Network and grab a seat at the kitchen bar, where the chef duo, Chris Phelps and Zak Walters, cook right beneath your nose.



The well-curated wine and beer list keeps up with the Cali-centric theme. We are wowed by the North Coast Coturri Rosé 2009, a gorgeous, ruby-red rosé. Made from Merlot, an uncommon rosé grape, this medium-bodied quaff is ripe with currants and proves that pink wines aren't just pretty to look at. San Diego's Alesmith IPA is a refreshing mix of bitter hops and sweet malt. As the back of the bottle rightly boasts, "It's Pretty Awesome".





Start off with a house-made Charcuterie Plate featuring a rotating array of cured meat morsels. Skinny, beet-red strips of duck prosciutto is a tasty twist on this buxom bird. Potted rabbit is packed with lardo-like fat, while thinly sliced, smoked pork shoulder is delicate, yet intense. The unique, in-house pickles, like black radishes and cherries, are delightfully original. A whimsical pretzel roll--imagine a doughy bun sprouting a crisp, pretzel appendage--and grainy mustard round out the plate.





Braised Pork Shoulder is melt-in-your-mouth good. Served with it's succulent juices, creamy grits, and a healthy handful of cilantro, this is southern comfort.







A juicy, Veal Burger topped with veal bacon proves you can't have too much of a good thing. Held together by a tasty, and squishy, poppy seed bun, it's a charred, smoky, meaty masterpiece. There's such a fight for the Belgian-style fries that we consider ordering a second round.





It's not just meat at Salt's Cure. After honing their skills at fish-centric Hungry Cat, these chefs know their way around the ocean. Yellowtail is served raw with green olives, shallots, dill, and drizzled olive oil--it's sashimi, American-style.








Plump mussels are bathed in a beer broth - the IPA adding a yeasty heft to the shellfish--as well as a delicious dunk for buttery, garlic bread)






Seasonal sides are plucked-from-the-fields fresh. A dish of Roasted Corn, thyme, butter, and aged goat cheese is farm fabulous. Our waitress earns mad points when, upon discovering the corn was sold out, she convinces the kitchen to scrape together a mini-version for our table.





The dessert choices are so tempting that we each gluttonously order our own. Normally, I shy away from liquorous desserts, but in the Whiskey Brioche Bread Pudding, the booze blends wonderfully with the butter. As we swirl the bread in luscious crème anglaise, my friend, Hollis, exclaims how good this would be for breakfast. I second that emotion.



Blackberry Crumble is a steaming bowl of summer. When warmed, the tart berries are mellowed to sweet goodness. With chunks of buttery pastry and vanilla ice cream, it's pure yum. Other homemade ice cream flavors include a lovely Lavender Shortbread, a delicate Wildflower Honey, and a bracing Fresh Mint Chocolate Chip.



Eating at Salt's Cure feels like a meal at an old friend's house, albeit one who is a damn fine chef. Here, the staff is so amicable that the lines between waiter/customer are blurred. It's a convivial, casual dinner party, where the menu and guest list change daily, but the deliciousness remains the same.

Fort Delicious

Fort Defiance Red Hook Winter '11
www.fortdefiancebrooklyn.com
eat: Chicken Liver, Tapenade, Grilled Baby Octopus, Roast Venison, Roast Chicken, Shrimp & Grits, Cauliflower Gratin, Sticky Toffee Pudding, Bourbon & Brown Butter Apple Tart
sip: Hot Apple Pie, Morris, Mezcal Old-Fashioned, Sazerac, Marconi Wireless, Sixpoint Otis, Angiolino Maule I Massieri Garganena/Trebbiano


I have fallen hard for Fort Defiance. Like all good love stories, it began with a crush; in this case, it was on the affable owner , St. John Frizell, who was holding court behind the bar my first night there. Sporting a traditional English, chalk-stripe apron, he crafted liquorous concoctions with the precision of a scientist, but without the brazen showmanship of Tom Cruise. This wasn’t your typical, carnal crush; while St. John is a handsome fellow, my affection stemmed more from what he had created. After hearing his tale of How Fort Defiance Was Made, I realized he was living a dream uncannily similar to mine: running a cozy restaurant/bar/café/community hub while writing about food and travel (All that was missing was my fantasy's B&B upstairs).

Fort Defiance is a neighborhood joint fit for whatever mood you fancy, whether a lazy weekend brunch, a filling weeknight meal, or, like in our case, a night of boozing. Where the menu, with just enough choices to accommodate any culinary craving, is full of affordably, delicious fare. This is the kind of place where you get to know the staff by name, where ordering isn’t a command, but a conversation about history, mezcal, or Red Hook. Where everyone is a regular or is welcomed as one. After my first encounter, I was hooked, vowing to return as often as possible. After numerous visits, I am officially smitten.



My first night at Fort Defiance, and in Red Hook for that matter, began after an adventurous walk across the BQE and traipsing through streets of slippery ice and snow. Like British soldiers during the Revolutionary War, we were on a mission, but in search of cocktails rather than conquering New York. Inside, we found a convivial space with Robin-egg blue walls, black & white checkered floors, and tables made from colorful, floral Latin-American fabric.




We took a seat at the zinc bar and perused the impressive cocktail menu, which features classic libations inspired by recipes from around the country. It was a bone-chilling night, so I was delighted to find a whopping SEVEN hot drinks on menu. I opted for Hanny's Hot Apple Toddy, a steaming mug of fresh apple cider, amaretto, whipped cream, and a dusting of nutmeg. Imagine a liquid version of the best homemade apple pie you've ever had - equally delicious, warming and comforting even without the flaky crust.






Next, I had the Morris, a mix of bourbon, Cocchi Americano, Amaro Nocino, and bitters created by by Seattle bartender Jamie Boudreau. Served in a vintage cocktail glass, the copper-hued quaff warmed without the syrupy sweetness of my previous beverage. It was smoky, yet still dainty enough for this recent bourbon convert.







Since we were still stuffed from brunch, we ordered Chicken Liver Pâté and Olive Tapenade for a nosh. The pâté was rich, gamey, and whipped just enough to still have some meaty heft. Combined with the briny and salty tapenade, the two made for a lovely bar-snack marriage. Buttery, crispy traditional toasts were addictive on their own or slathered with dips.





My next visit to Fort "D" was with a garrulous group of fellow gourmands. It was a staggered meal, so we arrived as their main course was being devoured. Eager to sample yet another cocktail, I chose the Oaxaca Old-Fashioned, a potent mix of reposado tequila, artisanal mezcal, and bitters. This heady concoction was too intense and smoky to pair with dinner, but on a subsequent, booze-only visit, it was perfect. Erik had a Sazerac with cognac, which we learned was the drink's original liquor before being replaced by the easier-to-obtain, American rye whiskey. As our waiter, Drubo, so aptly stated, it was a "handsome" cocktail, complete with a giant ice cube--the sign of a devout mixologist.




On menus around town, octopus has trumped squid as the Cephalapod du Jour. Here, Grilled Baby Octopus was charred exquisitely, elevating the seafood to meaty heights. Shaved fennel added complimentary crisp and black olive butter highlighted the briny salt of the octopus' oceanic origin.





As a novice griller, I'm always impressed when meat arrives cooked to perfection. The Roast Venison was Medium Rare Illustrated - bright red flesh encased in blackened char. Its gamey juices pooled under a creamy, earthy sunchoke puree. The warm salad of Brussel Sprout leaves, chopped walnuts, bacon cubes, and diced carrots was so tasty that I have made it part of my home-cooking repertoire.




Cauliflower Gratin was comfort in a cast iron pan. While I can't think of anything that doesn't go well with the winning trio of cheese, butter, and cream, cauliflower is one of the best contenders. The toasted bread crumb topping gave good crunch to the velvety soft cauliflower.





True to my English roots, Sticky Toffee Pudding has always been a fave of mine, yet I'm often disappointed by dry Stateside versions. Here, a moist, molasses-brown cake is lacquered with a rich, shimmering toffee sauce. Upon viewing our fellow diners ferociously pounce upon the dessert, Erik likened them to "wild animals". My only request would be to ask for a family-size portion, please, so as to avoid table-side tussles.






My third eve at Fort Defiance confirmed the cliche that good things do indeed "Come In Threes". I began with a Marconi Wireless, an elegant mélange of New Jersey apple brandy, bitters and vermouth. Its a lady's Manhattan, with more sweet than smack and hued a most sumptuous ruby red. Alyce chose a Sixpoint Otis, a robust, oatmeal stout brewed a few blocks away. Thanks to Drubo's enthusiasm and spot-on description of the Angiolino Maule I Massieri Garganega/Trebbiano, I have found my new favorite, "funky and unique" white wine.




Usually, I avoid chicken at restaurants since it is easy to cook myself and other fuller fat animals tempt me further. However, after tasting this Roast Plymouth Rock Chicken, I will eat a generous hunk of humble pie. Not only did this succulent chicken blow mine out of the coop, but with it's crispy skin and juicy flesh, it was anything but bland. Served with bitter greens, whipped mashed potatoes, and pan gravy, this was better-than-home cooked goodness.




Since the chef, Bobby Duncan, hails from Georgia, it's no surprise that the Shrimp and Grits were delicious, southern comfort. The shrimp were grilled and served shells-on, which kept them juicy and plump and encouraged finger-licking feasting. Piled atop a fluffy, creamy mound of Anson Mills grits, they were surrounded by red eye gravy, cubes of country ham, wild mushrooms, and scallions. This Lowcountry warmer was a welcome break from the meat-laden winter I've had.




The Bourbon and Brown Butter Apple Tart drew from both sides of the Atlantic. From the French, the filling--a gooey, caramelized mess of sautéed apples--was reminiscent of the classic tarte tatin and the crust was fluted in fine, French pastry style. The added oomph of bourbon and the heft of the buttery crust was pure Americana. Truly one of the best I've ever tasted--and as an Apple Pie aficionado, I have gobbled up hundreds of pies.



As the pièce de résistance, Drubo brought us an Angostura aged rum to pair with our pie. Normally not a rum drinker, we adored this rich liquor loaded with vanilla and molasses that complimented our dessert perfectly. This libation education is partly what makes Fort Defiance more than just an eating & drinking establishment. In an interview with Edible Brooklyn, St. John lauds the "Third Place", the sociological concept of a neighborhood gathering spot different from home (First Place) and work (Second Place). It is a place where old and new friends meet, where all people are welcome, essentially an anchor of community life. In Red Hook, it is Fort Defiance.